Do you love the wide, the really wide? Do you love long walks through the bush? What about choss, do you love it as well? Answer yes to any of these questions and you could find yourself at the base of this tower! It essentially climbs a decent length chimney to some easy moves for the summit! Good gear and textbook squeeze chimney moves make this pretty enjoyable! 

Trivial Pursuit

The Great Split

West Minster Abbey

The Queens Cake

Henry VIII

Unknown face (aka G.P. route)

Anne of a Thousand Days

The Gherkin

London Tower

Bloody Mary

Brutus

Zeus

God can’t save the queen  (open project)

The Thames

Charles II

A-1 Steak Sauce

Palace of Westminster

Big Ben

The Shard of Glass

Poseidon's Throne

As I headed east on the 60, my buddy called to bail for a Sat service project because his wife kicked his butt to the curb:( thus the name not in keeping with the theme of the area. It climbs the finger crack on the northwest side of the piller above the  little england wall. The summit is very exposed! It's only 5' wide by 20' long and 40' tall on the west and 200' on the east.  Cars driving eastbound will see your silouette on the summit:)

Another fun route a bit more challenging than Anne to the left. 

  For more route descriptions in the area see "Rock Jock's Guide to Queen Creek Canyon" by Marty Karabin 

Broken start to a bomber crack all the way to the top. You rap into this route after finding it. 

Great route for crusin' or beginner trad-leads. 2-bolt rap.  

  For more route descriptions in the area see book "Rock Jock's Guide to Queen Creek Canyon" by Marty Karabin

Fun face climbing up positive edges. Really enjoyable climbing and different than the pocket pulling on much of QC.

 There is also an arete variation that spilts off right 3 bolts up that looks fun as well.

Climb up right-facing dihedral and follow cracks to the right. Very fun climb & easy to protect. Nice edgy chunky rock with a bit o'exposure to the top.   

  For more route descriptions in the area see guide "Rock Jock's Guide to Queen Creek Canyon" by Marty Karabin 

Nice wide splitter with features galore to the left and right on face. Good pro and some nice moves make this an enjoyable climb, not to mention the sweet little summit it achieves! The first ascent saw a lot of choss and big loose rocks. They are mostly gone, but there is still choss to be had. The ending has some unlikely chimney moves that I give 3 stars alone! 

P1-Climb a wide crack into another crack that angles left. Up crack and into chimney behind a large flake. 

  P2-Through and out chimney to top of flake. Continue up crack and out onto face to a small ledge.  

  P3-Climb left into the large crack and to the top.

Begin below a small roof in an alcove with a few climbs. Climb past bolts through roof and up face trending left slightly following bolts to anchor. 100’ 5.7. Climb from anchors up face clipping bolts with some great exposure and fun holds 60’ 5.7+. Any Protestants of this route, and off with your head!This area has some pretty loose and not very hard rock. It is a less travelled crag, use caution while on the ground with climbers above you! This route is pretty clean, but still climb with care! 

Neat tower nestled in a group of 4! Obvious wide and broken crack with a ton of pro options. When the crack ends horizontals begin so don’t be shy! 

Zeus (5.10c/d) is a mixed trad and sport route that starts in the obvious crack for about 40ft and then continues on the face passing 8 bolts to achieve fixed anchors on top of the tower. You can climb this route and rappel with a 60m if you walk and start up on the ledge with the tree.  Or start to the left and below the ledge and use a 70m rope.  The trad section climbs around 5.8 with the crux being through the sport section so don't be afraid to send this one if your trad skills aren't honed to 5.10! 

 This line is directly left of a bolted line. It’s a series of horizontals and good flakes. There are pro options until about 100’ where it turns into a run out for a section before picking back up. Wasn’t feeling the route nor did we have the time! A mix between questionable rock and no placements at times makes this one easily pg 13. Definitely do able and when the pro runs out it’s fresh air beneath you. The climbing is very moderate someone change this description! 

Much like its namesake, this 2 pitch route takes you on a sightseeing tour up the middle of the LEW. The rock varies from OK to bomber. As with anything in QCC expect some exfoliation for a while. This route gets shade around 1 PM in the summer. P1: A tan hanger on the first bolt marks the start for this climb. Start behind a small bush. The first bolt might have you shaking in your waders but fear not, it's 5.easy. Climb a face that looks harder than it is past 5 bolts then turn on your blinker and make a hard right, traversing to a bolt 20 feet to the right and level with you under an ominous looking roof. Pay the choss troll under the roof then pull said roof on bomber rails (crux). Move slightly left before heading up to the two bolt anchor with rap rings on a glorious ledge complete with a catclaw bush which really adds to the ambiance. 9 bolts, 100 feet. P2: Head straight up from the anchors passing many bolts and trending slightly left. When you're level with the chossy roof hang right to a dark orange hanger above the roof. The rock quality here is not ideal, tread lightly. Rock quality improves above the roof for the remainder of the climb. You can climb above the anchors to a set of access bolts to enjoy the view. 9 Bolts, 100 feet. 2 bolt anchor with chains. 

Another fun route for crusin' or beginner trad-lead. This route is usually in the shade in the afternoon.  

  For more route descriptions in the area see book "Rock Jock's Guide to Queen Creek Canyon" by Marty Karabin 

Climb on easier ground to the first bolt! Trend towards the center of the formation and towards the next bolts using bomber QCC pockets, edges, and crimps. It’s a nice little pumpy route! 

The climbs starts on the left side of the formation. Class 3/ low 4th less than 10’ to start the bolt line. Follow bolts up face using great edges and holds. There are no moves harder than 5.9, it’s just 5.9 move after move for a large portion of the climb! You move through bulges and what feels like some steep stances at times. 

I think the crux is on the second pitch.   Real nice, smooth climb.  Follow crack that runs parallel to corner.   First pitch tops out at tree a little to the left.  One bolt belay and webbing are used for hanging belay.  May need to replace runner/webbing when up there.

If you have a thing for towers, adventurous climbing and choss, then this route will get you excited! You start on east side of the formation at the top of a gully that has a few climbs! Pass the gherkin and just beyond the tree you scramble past is the start of this climb. Start on face with broken finger crack, you must make a few moves to place some good gear. Climb the crack using good feet on the face to a bulge. You can continue through the dirty hand ish crack or step left on great feet and make some 5.easy moves with no pro to the same spot the crack ends! From this ledge make your way up the big boulder headed towards the ledge where the horizontal chimney like staircase begins. Face climb, walk, and eventually straddle, your way across the massive separated flake until you must make a few meters traverse to the anchors! Pitch 2: round the corner from the anchors is a chimney. Climb the chimney until your out of it then walk and scramble to the last few moves on jugs to summit

Facing East, near US 60.  The wall behind Atlantis. 

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Little England Wall