Climb the crack that leads up to the Windy Corner notch that separates the Cockscomb from the main South Peak. From the blocky ledge in Windy Notch climb the large corner over a chockstone and on up to the Summit Ledge.

Windy Corner

Old Ladies Excitement

Jane's Route

Celosia

Diane

Amazing Grace

Incredible Overhanging Wall

Start behind a small tree in the center of the Old Ladies Traverse Ledge.

#1. Climb the face and thin crack up and right until it merges with Discontent. Finish on Discontent. (80 ft.)

For unknown reasons, this route was never properly captured in previous guidebooks. I came across it in my research for Ed 4 and corrected the record.  In addition, its existence impacts descriptions for Dirty Old Man and Amazing Grace.

Start at the right (north) end of the Old Ladies Traverse Ledge, near the oak tree.

P1: Move up just a bit until you can traverse out right across the east face along a thin ledge system to the larger ledges above DIRTY OLD MAN and FROSTED FLAKE. There is a two-bolt anchor on a ledge here that is shared with these climbs. A large right-facing corner will be above. (5.3 PG, 40 ft.)

P2: Climb up some easy, but sparsely protected ground and gain the steep, narrow, right-facing corner. Follow this to the top and a two-bolt anchor. A #4 cam is helpful on this pitch. Beware of some loose rock near the top. (5.6 PG, 75 ft.)

This is a variation of Old Ladies Route which starts on the West Face then switches to the East Face. This variation is on the East Face part of that climb.

Start the same as Windy Corner.

#1. Climb the large inside corner that lies just to the right of Windy Corner and to the left of the Old Ladies chimney. (40 ft.)

This is a variation of Old Ladies Route which starts on the West Face then switches to the East Face. This variation is on the East Face part of that climb.

Start about 15 ft to the right of Cockscomb Overhang Direct and about 10 ft to the left of IOW below a small overhang.

#1. Climb through the overhang to a small flakey, brown face. Step left to a narrow, severly overhanging arete. Continue up the arete to a shallow chimney. Follow the crack to the top. (90 ft.)

This route traverses the South Peak East Face to the top of the Soler Flake. It is technically a variation to Old Ladies Excitement.  It has serious run outs and is infrequently done, so expect to be brushing off lichen to find your holds (some of which may break...).

The original submission for this route generally followed what was previously thought of as Amazing Grace but research for Ed 4 revealed some changes that needed to be made.  I've attempted to preserve as much of the original submitter's info as possible while still keeping true to the route. (AW - Admin)

Protection is infrequent but (mostly) solid, but falls shouldn't be dangerous until you get to the last 30 ft of the route (follower would hit the Soler Flake full force in a fall... bolt could probably protect that).

Start: At the intersecting ledge with bolts atop Dirty Old Man, Frosted Flake (P1) and Old Ladies Excitement (P1).  The easiest access is to climb P1 of Old Ladies Excitement.

P1.  Climb P2 of Old Ladies Excitement until about 15 ft from the top and make a belay.

P2. Traverse right around the corner onto the lichen-covered face. Pass the shuts on T. R. Rap and Tap to a thin vertical crack. Follow this straight up to a set of shuts (end here to skip the dangerous traverse). Continue right and very slightly up to head directly for the top of Soler Flake. (~115ft)

Original poster comment: I'd probably give this route two stars if it weren't for the final traverse. End at the last set of shuts for a bit of 5.7 adventure.

This is a variation of Old Ladies Route which starts on the West Face then switches to the East Face. This variation is on the East Face part of that climb.

Start about 20 ft north of the second pitch of Old Ladies Route below an arching crack.

#1. Climb the face and arching crack up the overhanging wall to a no-hands rest. From here move right 10 ft then up the lichen covered wall to the top. (90 ft.)

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Cockscomb East Face