Great position and perfect rock, Begin by stepping off the left side of the flat belay ledge on crisp edges. Mostly 5.10 climbing punctuated by a powerful crux above the third bolt involving a "two-by-four" pinch and a rail feature. The gently overhanging finish on horizontal slots and jugs is send-sational!

Tetris

Middle Chimney (aka " the moat")

Hyrule Ascending

Seige Tower

Revel's Ramparts

Crack of Noon

Storming the Castle

Burma-Shave

Clandestine Rendevous

Jenga's Revenge

Route is mostly juggy 5.8ish with a few well protected cruxes.  It stays on or just to the left of the arete, and pulls straight over the big hanging block near the top.  Tons of exposure with amazing holds throughout.  Same top anchors as for the crack route.  Can rap with a 60m rope.

Starts from ledge (but can direct start as "storming the castle"), then climbs the bolt line left of STC up the orange face.  Crux is near 2nd bolt moving through a series of liebacks to a huge jug.  Continues on BIG holds through steep block terrain to the anchors.   Anchors are just below the tower's top (similar to storming the castle) to faciliate rope line for lowering, but there are bolts on the summit to anchor to if you want to climb up and over.  

Sustained climbing with good holds up the overhanging face.  Starts with a bouldering move or two to reach the obvious flake. Great solid climbing with a slowly building pump.  Chain anchors or top out onto "rampart's ledge" for a great hangout spot.

Start up as for "Clandestine Rendevous" and move left on ledge to bolt line .  The left side of chimney can be used for the first few bolts, or can be climbed on the face alone.  Great holds mostly 5.8ish) through the middle lead to short cruxs after the 3rd bolt and 4th bolts.  Double bolt anchor on the Rampart ledge.  Can use chains on "clandestine" to lower, or continue to top of tower (4th class) to access all other route anchors.  

A gritty adventure on a proud line. Start from the brushy ledge in a wide splitter. Follow the intermittent hand and finger crack, past a few ancient pitons, occasionally climbing out right on the face. Glorious finish hiking straight up big horizontals.

 Not sure the history on this one. Considering the rock I cleaned from the start, I doubt the full line had been climbed before and unlikely that it was done free back in the day.

Takes the obvious line up the blocky roofed arete just to the the right of "the moat" feature. Bouldery start to ledge then balance moves on thin hollow flakes lead to jug pulling straight through the roofs to the anchor.  Stellar setting.  Easy climbing above the chains if you want to top out on the tower.  

Beautiful golden face. Boulder off the ledge on sharp edges, consider stick clipping the first bolt if you're unsure about it (plenty of sticks around). Negotiate a short crux at the 3rd then it's all jugs to the finish, but a pump builds with the steep lockoffs. Easy to set a toprope after climbing the chimney. All day sun.

Great route with juggy ledges up the slightly overhanging face.  Ends on left side of "rampart's ledge".  Chains or easy scramble to top.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Shepard's Tower