Terribly solid for the grade,

Cool Katz

is possibly the best entry level route at

The Green Valley Gap

. Despite its crimperific start,

Cool Katz

is a straight shooting line that starts hard and eases off towards the end.

Nice climbing on a blunt arete passes good holds and sharp crimps. Break through the start and enjoy easier moves to the anchor.

Cool Katz

Pinball “Flue Shot”

Hot Grandma

Short and Dorky

West Wave

Roosterhead Ridge

Bitter Recriminations

Rock!! n' Roll

Ski-Wompus

The Inquisition

Not Arrgh

Beggars and Choosers

Hairy Virgin

Sand Stoner Reverse

Stick to your Guns

Skin Graft

Fat Black Chuck

Nemesis

Where Egos Dare

Lamenites

Perky's Playground

Damned If You Don't

Damned If You Do

The Quickening

Australian Monk

Hair Today Gone Tomorrow

Butterflies Arete

Unknown Slab

Fat Black Walla

Knee Replacement

Luck of the Irish

The Wave

Puppet Strings

Shotgun Baptism

2 Weeks Notice

Moral Dilemma

Presidential Centerfold

Tape Up

Smoke and Mirrors

Chinese Gauncho

Factional Infighting

Lincoln's Lament

12 Gauge Conversion

Buttkutt

Hue and Cry

Bare Necessities

Parking Slot

Dueling Grandmas

Unknown

I'm hungry and I have to poop!

Redneck Wonderland

Presidential Warfare

Kool Kats Chimney

Pain in the Cass!

Benefit of the Doubt

Brazilian Ninjas

Washingtons' Wig

Cass's Pain

Jezabel

Pinball alternate start

Nephites

Climb the chimney to left of Kool Kats and only use the chimney to the top where you reach the anchors of Kool Kats. used my shoulder and neck and everything I had to get to the top. super stretched out.

Fun chimney and an easy first lead for beginners.

New route as of April 2020.  Tricky start onto easy face with a reachy move to the chains.

Steep rock with nice pockets. Crux  involves a dead point to good pocket just above the second bolt.

Interesting face moves on mostly positive holds (after a thin thoughtful start).

Go straight up the middle of the face.

As of 2016 this rock has not been climbed or tested much, so not unlikely if some of it breaks loose. Therefore the climber should wear a helmet, and the belayer and any other persons should stay way off to one side or the other - (not underneath the climber) - (also not anywhere out in front of the route, because falling rocks can bounce and ricochet way out away from the wall).

Lots of thoughtful interesting moves in the first twenty feet, then fun easy moves above.

Up directly through the nose above the "practice" anchor, staying left of the "Australian Monk" cracks. Reach a platform, then finish over the roosterhead.

warning

: As of 2018 this rock has not been climbed or tested much, so not unlikely if some of it breaks loose. Therefore the climber should wear a helmet, and the belayer and any other persons should stay way off to one side or the other - (not underneath the climber) - (also not anywhere out in front of the route, because falling rocks can bounce and ricochet way out away from the wall).

A tricky and hard to read line with a tough clip or two. Climb a bulge that leads to crimps and a blind throw. Gain a rest and work left over steepening terrain towards a small roof. The final moves involve questionable climbing through friable sandstone. Hand and foot holds with limited life greet you at the end of this this route right before you want to start cursing.

The route starts under a small roof.  Pulling the roof is the crux and then it's smooth sailing after that.

(We might not have been the first to climb this. If you know who was the first Ascensionist and it's proper name, please say so and I'll change that info. Thanks.)

You've gotta embrace the rock, sniff the rock, lick the rock, wash the rock, date the rock, be the rock! And lastly stand on a stack of rocks to get to your first set of crimpers. The first bolt is an easy clip but offers little protection. The route moves up about 4 feet left of the arete. Clipping the last bolt before the chains looks trickier than it actually is. There's a good undercling providing an easy reach to the last bolt.

Great route for the grade. Starts on a small roof; pulling over the edge leads to vertical climbing to anchors.  Crux is beneath the first bolt so bring a stick clip.  A spotter through the first section is helpful to keep a climber from hitting their back on the boulder directly behind the first moves in the event of a fall.

Located in between Luck of the Irish and Moral Dilema.  Bouldery start leads to easier 5.9 climbing up top. I think the crux is moving past the first bolt.

Who thinks of these names?  I hope that this isn't what people think of while climbing.  This is a fun little route for groups of beginners or small children.  Pretty fun for a short 5.7 (beta I got), seemed easier than that to me.

A name such as this implies a few things.....for me, it says

Saint George

isn't as stale as it appears?

Bolted with the drill in reverse,

Sand Stoner Reverse

has the potential for some nice whippers.

Smooth and potent

, this overhung scoop has some of the best climbing at the gap. Requiring thought, this route isn't as

dumb

as it sounds. A combination of finding proper body position and a need to milk the rests will keep the aspiring climber from getting too

high

too fast. Big powerful moves connect good holds to great holds, plan out your sequence so you don't get

burnt

out.

Smoking

hot! this route is better than it looks.

This route starts under a 15' long roof. Use the crack around the left corner for your hands. At the third bolt drop down under the roof. The holds here have been cemented to keep them from breaking off. The crux is from here to the next bolt. follow the arete up to a 2 chain anchor.

A clean cut, blank corner marks the beginning of this climb, false step or slip and kiss your shin good-bye. Begin from the ground and hold on tight or start from a block and step on a little higher. Either way you're looking at a hard to start route with

OCD

tendencies.

Once you cast off, hang on tight for some great arete climbing with big throws and long moves. Ride the arete, climbing crisp edges mixed with small crimps. Finish a bit mentally and physically drained at a two-bolt anchor.

Climb using a few good pockets up the front face of a pillar to a crux at the mid-way point. Finish steep at the anchor.

Well protected climbing ends on steep terrain with hidden holds. Sequential and Exciting!

Awesome route with bouldery balance lower crux that leads to fun climbing to the top.

Small edges  and pockets lead to better holds toward the top. Climbing is a little trickier than it at first seems. A few jugs on the right of the bolts lead some people toward the right.

Start next to arete and crimp upwards and right. Shares anchor with Nephites.

About 10-15 minutes into the canyon on the North wall, you will see 2 sets of two bolted lines the one on the left is facing east, and the one on the right is facing west, with a third line right on the arete.  This is in the right group and it is the line just left of the arete or the middle line.  A steep varnished face, with really fun moves that almost offset the shortness.

About 10-15 minutes into the canyon on the North wall, you will see 2 sets of two bolted lines the one on the left is facing east, and the one on the right is facing west, with a third line right on the arete. This route (along with it's sister, Damned If You Do) are around the corner from the two on the left. They climb the varnished edgy steep face, to the top.  This is the right line.

About 10-15 minutes into the canyon on the North wall, you will see 2 sets of two bolted lines the one on the left is facing east, and the one on the right is facing west, with a third line right on the arete.  This route (along with it's sister, Damned If You Don't) are around the corner from the two on the left.  They climb the varnished edgy steep face, to the top.  This is the left line.

Thin holds on a short, slightly overhanging black streak.

Climb the duel cracks in the slabby chimney up to the chain anchors.

It's still kinda loose so watch out.

(I'm sure that we weren't the first to climb this. If you know who was the first Ascensionist and it's proper name, please say so and I'll change that info. Thanks.)

This route starts in the 5.10 range with deep pocket. At the second bolt the You move to thin edges. The roof starts at the third bolt. Use the right corner to lay back and hit the fourth bolt. The back under the roof for a daring mantle to a comfortable ledge and a two bolt anchor.

Sustained thoughtful moves for the first twenty feet (with sidepulls and footholds on both sides of the crest). Then easier fun moves up the "razor" to the top.

Start up the gully to right bottom of arete. About five feet up, step horizontal left over onto crest of the arete (onto unseen big foothold using unseen big handhold).

. . . Variation 1 (like 5.9): Start on the face about four feet left from the arete for the first couple of moves, then move right to join the arete.

. . . Variation 2 (harder): Start directly on the arete.

Straight up the crest of arete, then finish up the razor.

warning

: As of 2018 this rock has not been climbed or tested much, so not unlikely if some of it breaks loose. Therefore the climber should wear a helmet, and the belayer and any other persons should stay way off to one side or the other - (not underneath the climber) - (also not anywhere out in front of the route, because falling rocks can bounce and ricochet way out away from the wall).

Bouldery start with a giant jug beginning. Orient yourself to use smaller ledges and good feet to move through the slab.

I didn't see this route anywhere on MP. If you know the name, grade, and first ascensionist, please comment below.

Route name is a placeholder for this shiny new line just left of Fat Black Chuck -- name correction welcome!

Easy clips protect the gentle start and keep you safe as you make a bold move to the third bolt's clipping crimps.  Several options let you gamble on what will stick.  From here it's thin holds and feet on up to the top.  Great fun!

Start in the crack to the right then move left onto the face.  Expect some gritty edges until it gets more traffic.

Thin crimps with big pockets above. Short but fun. Good warm up.

This climb is near the east end of the Gap on the south facing side.  It is the left of three routes on the hunk of rock where

Shotgun Baptism

(10c) and

12 Gauge Conversion

(9/TR) are located.  Cimbing is easy up to the third bolt where a bulge is encountered.  Pull through the bulge clip one more bolt on your way to the anchors.

A steep, difficult, under-cut start climbs to jugs and crisp edges. Nice clipping stances and a sweet bulge finish keep this route good from beginning to end. A great little romp!

Campus start up through big holds, enter the crux with a diaper on, because your going to shit.  Finish out on good holds.

Big fun moves on a pocketed sandstone arete. This route is in the shade by 1200. Possible to do in summer. Longer draws will reduce rope drag.

Crux is the first 10' of the route.  Climb up into a cave-like chimney and pull out of it to easier ground.

(We might not have been the first to climb this. If you know who was the first Ascensionist and it's proper name, please say so and I'll change that info. Thanks.)

About 5-10 minutes in the canyon, one will pass by this striking overhanging hand/fist crack in a boulder.  Short but oh so painful.  Give it a go.

I did not get it so my v5, is a guess.

Mount boulder under small roof then pull bouldery start to face climbing.

8' left of "Brazilian Ninjas".  Climb past the bottom anchor bolt set up to seam/small dihedral.  It's a little run out at the end on easy ground to chains.

(I'm sure that we weren't the first to climb this.  If you know who was the first Ascensionist and it's proper name, please say so and I'll change that info.  Thanks.)

This route is labeled "P" in Todd Goss's "Rock Climbs of Southwest Utah" guidebook from 2006.  It is the short varnished slab just East of Moral Dilemma and The Quickening.  It is short and definitely not the most inspiring line in the area, but offers some decent edgy features to warm up on.

Huge Right facing Dihedral in between "Skin Graft" and "Fat Black Chuck".  Hand jam the crack and pull on the occasional face hold.  Great hold in the crack make this an interesting and fun lead. This is a short route, but it is totally worth the time.

(We might not have been the first to climb this. If you know who was the first Ascensionist and it's proper name, please say so and I'll change that info. Thanks.)

This route is located near the east end of the south facing side of the gap, on a nice hunk of rock.  There are two other routes on this hunk to the left.  When facing the cliff from right to left the routes are: 12 Gauge Conversion(9/TR), Shotgun Baptism(10c), and Puppet Strings(10a).

The first 15ft starts out in a skinny offwidth and quickly changes to a fist crack that is slightly overhung. After that Veer left and up to the top. Watch out for loose rocks!!

Build an anchor and belay up your partner, walk off

(We might not have been the first to climb this. If you know who was the first Ascensionist and it's proper name, please say so!)

Boulder out of a scoop onto the arete (don't bother clipping the first bolt, it's too low to catch you anyhow).  As the angle eases on the arete, the holds get sparse and small, making for continuous (although easier) climbing.  Clip the last bolt before pulling the roof and then make an easy mantle to the top.  This was a lot of fun for such a short route.  My best guess is 5.9+ on difficulty, hopefully I don't sandbag anyone.

Good route for beginners.  Decent moves up to a 2 bolt anchor.

Thoughtful interesting stemming and other moves in the narrow gully (after working out the "trick" starting move), then easier fun moves above.

Start in the left half of the narrow gully, up the gully, then on to the top (going between the razor on the left and the roosterhead on the right).

warning

: As of 2018 this rock has not been climbed or tested much, so not unlikely if some of it breaks loose. Therefore the climber should wear a helmet, and the belayer and any other persons should stay way off to one side or the other - (not underneath the climber) - (also not anywhere out in front of the route, because falling rocks can bounce and ricochet way out away from the wall).

A Dangerous and Bold undertaking.

This poorly bolted, mis-leading, death route will cause jaw dropping or denture dropping results. I would recommend being very solid at the grade before leading this route. Hard clips with deck potential mark the first 15 feet. A tense and very steep finish keep you on your toes. Relentless...

Route climbs a dihedral for the first 15 or so feet and then continues on the face for another 15 feet to the chains. The crux is just above the end of the dihedral- a high step onto the last ledge with hands on sloping hand holds. Overall a pretty fun route. If leading, the last decent piece of pro until just before the top out is at the top of the dihedral. A fall from near the top will land you on top of a ledge or on the deck.

Stick clip first bolt, Shares start with "stick to your Guns".  Traverse out and up the face on thin crimps to nice ledge, set up for mono and finish with compression and big moves to the chains

This route looks really fun (and easy) from the ground, but ends up packing quite the punch once you get on it.  Cruiser climbing leads to the second bolt where the business starts.  Make a hard deadpoint to a sloping crimp with your right hand, then get your feet high and dyno to the jugs above.  The guidebook says 5.12b/c and that the crux involves pinching a tiny cobble. Well, I didn't find any tiny cobble, and the rating felt upper end 5.12c to me, so maybe something broke since the FA.

Climb the crack left of "The Wave" up to "The Waves'" Anchor bolts.  Good Placements and fun route.

(We might not have been the first to climb this. If you know who was the first Ascensionist and it's proper name, please say so and I'll change that info. Thanks.)

Just to the left of "Cool Katz."  Mantle start with big moves to nice ledges.  Swing out left to big side pull, bringing you face to face with a serious crux.  Mantle up and finish out with Elvis leg on thin flakes.

There is no

benefit of the doubt

to be given here, either you can start this route or you can't.

A powerful, yet cautious, bouldery beginning marks the crux of this route. Blowing the second, difficult clip could get ugly. Proper body position and strong tendons get you going, find the few remaining hidden crimps and continue up through smoother, more flowing terrain.

Whats bad? A crumbly and potentially dangerous start.

Whats good? Solid varnished edges, good pockets, and great movement.

About 5-10 minutes further up the canyon from the Damned sisters, is this child's route. It can be TR'd or gear protected.

Coordinates MGRS 12S TG 65553 07936 Taken from the base of the route 03272020

Climb crack and face left of "The Offering".

(I'm sure that we weren't the first to climb this. If you know who was the first Ascensionist and it's proper name, please say so and I'll change that info. Thanks.)

Decent climb up a wavering crack. I can't find it in the Goss book and it's not Kool Katz Chimney so I guess I'll add it, and take it down if necessary.  The crux for this route is getting your feet on the wall and the last move or two.

Short yet fun offwidth crack with a lightning bolt crux

Layback start in the crack to the right of the start of pinball. It is easiest to lead pinball and set up a TR for this climb. Once you get to the top of the crack you finish with pinball and chimney up to the anchor.

Harsh crimping on hard varnish past three bolts.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Green Valley Gap