Climb the arete between Shoulder of the Road and One Lane Highway. There's a crux getting off the ground and well, you'll find the other one, techy. You can call it at the top of One Lane Highway but it's worth continuing up the arete to finish. This last section is in the 5.10 range.NOTE: This same route was posted to Rockclimbing.com by Mark Nord in 2006 as Cruise Control (5.11)

Rumble Strip

One Lane Highway

Armbuster Descent Route

Cruise Control AKA Plumb Loco (Combination)

Eagle's Nest

Middle of the Road

Slightly out of Plumb

The Man's Route

Z-slash

Bird's Nest

Fair Square

Eagle Scat

Plumb Line

Armbuster

Face Flop'n

Shoulder of the Road

Two-Lane Highway

Go up on thin holds on slightly overhanging ground at a small right facing corner, up the left side of the arete.

Start 10 ft left of Two Lane Highway at a vertical seam.  Follow seam and left slanting crack until it ends.  Then traverse 10 ft right onto Two Lane Highway and finish on that.

Start: 30 feet downstream from Armbuster.   Descend a series of ledges, moving upstream.

This is a route for climbers who find the routes at Great Falls Park just too short. It combines three quality routes and a variation on one of the finest walls in the Park. Climb Middle of the Road (use the Toll Booth direct start for extra credit); downclimb One-Lane Highway to the ledge 10 feet off the ground; traverse right to Two-Lane Highway; climb Two-Lane Highway to finish on Slightly out of Plumb.

Funky and thoughtful climbing up the corner take you to the crux bulge. Find your way through this and up to an easier top out.

Start on One Lane Highway and climb first 10ish feet until you can traverse right 7 feet onto the face. Climb the face between the two highways, being careful not to touch any holds on either. Very thin moves, small holds, 2 cruxes."Toll Booth" is a direct start to Middle of the Road. (It is the shortest way to the middle of the road, but you have to pay a price.) It stays right of the ramp that provides footholds on the start of One Lane Highway. It moves more or less straight up to the ledge that connects One Lane Highway to Middle of the Road and joins Middle of the Road at that point. It extends the difficulty level of Middle of the Road right down to the ground. It is at least as difficult as any single move on the rest of the climb.

Start—This is a variation finish on Two Lane Highway.Climb Two Lane Highway to about ¾ height (your feet are just at the bottom of the quartz flake/dike three feet left of the Two Lane Highway crack). From this point, traverse right five feet out onto the Plumb Line overhang (crux). Climb the overhang to the top. This is probably the most gymnastic 5.11 in the Gorge with stellar moves up the overhang. First Ascent—Unknown. Mark Nord named it and popularized it after working out the moves in 2004, but he was introduced to it by another climber who had climbed it and thought he had climbed Plumb Line.

The first 30' are the business. Sequential climbing with big moves between good holds takes you to mellower climbing above.

10 feet right of Armbuster below the obvious Z in the face.  Boulderey moves lead to a tough pull through a mono-lock above the horizontal.  Power through remaining side pulls to the finish.

Proceed up a crack in a prominent dihedral, over a slight bulge to easier ground. Go up under a huge roof to a positive horizontal hand traverse with thin feet and go right to the end of the roof. Turn the corner and proceed to top, or, lower from there.

Below arete to the right of Eagles Nest - climb arete.

This somewhat contrived variation on Eagle’s Nest stays entirely on the left wall of the Eagle’s Nest dihedral, avoiding the arete to the left (which is Fair Square) and the dihedral crack, right face, and Eagle's Nest roof. The finishing hold (same as for Fair Square and Eagle’s Nest) is the horizontal extending left from the arete and is the only hold off the face. Thin and balancey in places, especially where the face narrows to a few inches at the Eagle’s Nest roof.

Start same as Birds Nest - climb the corner, step up right and climb the widest part of the triangular roof.

A vertical crack and corner.  Strength seems to help on this climb.

Start just to the right of Eagles Nest - climb the face forming the right side of Eagles Nest

From AFALCON GUIDE by Eric J. Horst:    "Start on the face immediately left of Bird's Nest corner. Climb the right side of the corner's left face up and around the left side of the roof. Holds in the corner are off."

The Bird's Nest Area is located right along the river trail about 100 yards downstream of the Canal Cut. It has some of the longest climbs at Great Falls and is very popular.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Bird's Nest