This is a somewhat-contrived line that is really fun, a one move wonder, perhaps? Climb the two “bony plates” to a small pocket-cave on the left side of the Piton Face. The chimney-like feature to the left of the first boulder is off route. Climb up and on top of the first 8’ boulder that has a tiny roof – staying to the right is v-easy, the left is a bit harder. Take a large step across a small void to the taller plate (stay on the tallest blocks), and make one more step across to an angling ledge just below the upside-down-triangle, pocket cave (that can barely fit a person). Hook your toe in the low pocket/jug on the (climber’s) right wall/corner of the pocket cave, and press against the opposing, low-angling slab to your left (across another gap). Make a very committing, full-body stem move by walking up the backside of the pocket cave and moving your hands up the slab (you will be in a push-up position). When you move your hands high enough on the slab, make a lunge step across the gap (i.e., a spiderman push-up). Don’t have your hands slip out or you’ll do a faceplant on the slab. Pull on some crimps, and reach for the jug at the top wall.

Stegosaurus!

Let There Be Jugs

Juvenile Chunk Head

The Slot

Six Pack

Surfin' On Heroin

Mossy Corner

The Scoop

The V-Chimney

The Throne

Penal Servitude

None Shall Pass

Grunt Groove

Rusty Python

Flying Circus

Begin on lower ground with a bouldery start (low crux).  Left hand in crack at groove and pull around low arete on crimpers and slopers - balancy and fun! Easier option starts at low ledge 6' up from start (along lower cliffline trail).  Make your way to the base of the arching tree and stay left (i.e., squeeze between tree and cliff face).  Delicate feet get you to the slight overhang.  Grab some reachy holds for a slabby topout requiring a high step, and scramble to the top.  Variations to the right and far left of the tree go at the same grade.

Fun! Jug haul a short (and slightly overhanging) blocky section of the lower wall to a ledge. Then climb straight up the center of the overhanging upper face. The upper section has bomber jugs and one reachy move (crux) that would be difficult (i.e., dyno) for shorter climbers.

Layback the vertical crack at the inside corner to the (climber's) right of Six Pack Roof. Continue straight up to the overhanging block with the wide, horizontal crack (the "chunk head"). Find some holds to pull/mantel yourself onto the top of this block (crux).

Scramble to the inside corner underneath the Six Pack roof (you can't miss it!). Traverse slightly left on the (slabby) face using thin hand and foot holds. Then pull through (or left) of the narrow slot (crux). Use face holds and/or hidden holds within the slot/roof.

Stroll up the blocky section, and stay to (climber's) right underneath the impressive roof. Foot placements are limited for traversing right, and crimpy holds are pretty desperate for the grade. Boston Rocks has this at 5.7+... the plus may indicate a grade (or two) - be warned.

This climbs a powerful arete featuring a one arm pull at the crux.

[From Boston Rocks:]

 "The shallow, inside corner above an overhanding start, left of the Elementary School Roof. There are a few variations at the start, all are hard if your footwork isn't good. Showoffs have climbed this route without using any feet, just pull-ups."

Boston Rocks lists this at "5.7 - 5.8". Starting off to the left is less overhung and perhaps a bit easier than the direct route. I found the direct route a little more interesting. Either way, there are good holds all over this fun route.

High step into a scoop with slanting/smearing foot placements.  Walk your feet higher and left as you layback a rounded protrusion to pull yourself (up and left) toward the outside corner. Slopers and crimpers are your only balance options at this point. Reach out left to an awkward/big pinch on a vertical-rail feature. Work your feet higher so you can reach the juggier top of this same feature (crux). Match your hands and pull this hold carefully - it flexes! Move your feet up to the slabby and much easier, upper section of the route.

Scramble up to the slabby, v-shaped chimney. Pull the crack, and jam, and/or stem your feet. The crux is the steeper topout over a small block forming a tiny lip. This chimney collects pine needles - watch out for slippery foot placements!

Use the same start as V-Chimney, but stay right on the short, overhanging, blocky section that leads to a sizable ledge. You can also climb the vertical, left-facing section (at the start of the v-shaped chimney feature) to get to the ledge; this option offers better protection. From the ledge, tackle the widening crack that finishes as an offwidth. There is a wedged flake within the middle section of the crack that offers some relief for one-handed gear placement. Exiting the offwidth crack (i.e., the topout) is the crux.

Same start as V-Chimney. Scramble up the blocky boulders right of the tree onto a ledge. A couple moves up, follow the horizontal crack system left to the arete. Follow the arete to the top.

Can't climb up the face?.... Then go around at a slightly easier grade. Stem between the 15' (attached) boulder-type feature and the Flying Circus face. At the top of the boulder, reach out to the "Holdy Rail" to traverse the top of the cliff face with your hands (i.e., laybacks and crimps) and thin feet below. Throw a heel hook if you want! Top out at the highest point where a top rope anchor should be set (same setup for Flying Circus).   

  A starting variation eliminates the crack (between the boulder and the cliff face); instead climb/layback the boulder arete (with your back to Flying Circus) to make this feel more like a continuous highball boulder problem. This leaves you with a single rest before the committing, steep traverse.

Jug haul a short (and slightly overhanging), blocky section of the lower wall to a ledge. An alternate start is the lower crack formed by the right-facing corner; this offers better protection to the ledge. Then climb the crack (using some side crimpers) at  the upper, left-facing corner. Stem your feet on small edges. The steepness eases considerably for the (slabby) topout, which follows a wider crack to the clifftop.

This is on the left face of the buttress. Do a thin start of 5.7-ish face climbing with decent holds. Come under the awkward roof that tries to push you out (keep slack on top rope or risk being pulled off the wall). Reach for a key hold above the roof, and move up in the crack above. It feels more exposed than the height suggests.

This area lies further along the dirt road on top of the embankment perhaps 200 yards from Wampatuck Rd. Head NE along one of the faint trails. It lies in the midst of relatively dense forest and can be hard to spot. On the right side of the crag is a distinctive feature called the Elementary School Roof. This crag seems quite short.

 L->R:

Flying Circus A? None Shall Pass, 8, 1p, 30', TR. B? And Now for Something Completely Different, 10. C. Flying Circus, 9+, 1p, 20', TR.

Rusty Python D. Surfin' On Heroin, 11+, 1p, 30', TR. E. Rusty Python, 9, 1p, 35', TR. F.  Stegosaurus! , 7+ R, 1p, 35', gear or TR.

 G. Piton Face, A2+? HG. Penal Servitude, 10-, 1p, 40', TR. nice photo I. The V-Chimney, 4, 1p, 35', gear or TR. J. The Throne, 6 or 7 PG-13, 1p, 40', TR or gear. K. Let There Be Jugs, 6 or 7, 1p, 40', TR. L. Grunt Groove, 6 or 7, 1p, 40', gear or TR. M. The Scoop, 8, 1p, 40', TR. N. The Slot, 3, 1p, 30', gear or TR. O. Six Pack, 7+, 1p, 40', TR. Nice photo. or bottom left photo P? Juvenile Chunk Head, 6, 1p, 30', gear. Q. Sit On It, 4. R. Dirty Chimney, 1. S or T. The Exorcist, 6. S or T. The Dropout, 9+. U. First Grade, 8. V. Detention, 9. W. Mossy Corner Direct, 7. X. Mossy Corner, 6-7+, 1p, gear or TR. Y. Elementary School, was 10, now 11, with variations. Z. A Bird In The Hand, 9+. AA. Day Care, 6

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Playground