This route climbs the left hand edge of the Magic Bus wall. Although there is nothing really wrong with the route, it's not quite as good as others on the cliff, having rock of less quality and being a little shorter.Climb the now-bolted line at the left edge of the crag to reach the anchors up and right, above Blonde Dwarf.

Electric Koolaid

Blonde Dwarf

Zipperhead

Ken Queasy

Neon Sunset

Technicolor Sunrise

Queasy Sunrise

This route climbs the obvious crack starting near the left hand edge of the Magic Bus wall. The gear at the bottom might be a little tricky to place, but seemed OK to me. Like it's neighbor, there is nothing really wrong with the route, but it's broken nature (not a singular line) makes it not quite as good as others on the cliff, having rock of less quality and being a little shorter.Climb up the crack up and right to the face, then up and left on the face past two bolts to a fixed rap anchor.

To find this route first locate Neon Sunset, as described on this site.  

  From Neon Sunset, walk 3 meters right to a set of thin cracks tending up and right. At the end of the first crack, step right join a second crack system and eventually to a bolt. Continue climbing until the difficulty eases and then choose to go up and left the anchors of Neon Sunset, or up and right to the anchors on Technicolor Sunrise.

Go to the far right side of the Magic Bus Crag. This climb starts some small distance left of the right-hand end, in some dark, chunky rock. 

  Climb up an awkward start (perhaps 5.9?) and reach the first bolt. Then up and to a second bolt before angling up and left to join Technicolor Sunrise, clipping the final bolt and anchors of that route. The line is note as nice nor as continuous as the others at the cliff, and felt awkward at the bottom. 

  Like its neighbor, the Swain book suggests that a TCU or small wires will assist at the base, but I don't recall inspiring protection - I remember awkwardly trying to place a piece that wasn't great in the end anyway. I'd advise to just boulder it out to the first bolt and would not advise this as a good route for a blooming leader.

This route is the central route up the wall - the second from the left of the fully bolted lines at Magic Bus. Despite the fact that I generally enjoy trad routes more, I found this to be one of the better lines at the cliff, despite being a little over-bolted. Unlike a few of its neighbors, the line is continuous and straight--aesthetic and nice. Perhaps one of the good reasons to hit this cliff on a winter morning. It's also a good warm up. 

  Climb up the bolted line passing 9 bolts to the anchor up top. At one time the bolt hangers were red, and still may well be.

To find this route first locate Neon Sunset, as described on this site.  

  From Neon Sunset, walk 3 meters right to a set of thin cracks tending up and right (Zipperhead) then 2 more meters to the left edge of a pyramid like feature.  

  Climb up on this then straight up the wall passing (5 bolts, now that it was retrobolted...) to reach a fixed anchor. The line is pretty straight and continuous and is a nice climb. 

  According to the Swain book, this route will take small wires at the base, but I don't recall inspiring protection and instead just bouldered it out with a spot from my belayer. This route might not be the best for a blooming leader.   Again, the retrobolts make the Swain book advice and former comments on that irrelevant but for historical context and ethical considerations.  It appears that gear is not needed anymore.

Huge boulder across from the parking lot at the 2nd pullout.

Description

Protection

Routes in Magic Bus