A tricky boulder crux problem off the blocks leads to a clean vert face with some small edges.  The crux would be well-protected if the bolts had hangers.  Might be better than the 1 star I gave it, it's a pretty cool boulder problem.  But it's still a sport climb without hangers at a cliff no one goes to.

Chocolatey Claire

Little Debby's Ding Dong

Doughynuts

Fat Cops On Swivel Chairs

Gordon Lightfoot

High-Heeled Hookers Munchin' Honey-Coated Holes

Hollywood Chainsaw Hookers

The Hole Thing

The crux is near the bottom. Climb a thin Playground type crack with small stoppers and then up to a pleasurable three bolt arete to a two bolt anchor which is shared with Greasy Hairnets.

Climb a bouldery hand/fist crack to a nicely edged and pocketed face above. The crux is between bolts 2 and 3.

This is the trad climb left of the hangerless sport climb "Greasy Hairnuts".  Squirm up behind a detached block, and crimp your way up the open corner above.  There's a bolt.  Step left at the top to the anchor for High-Heeled Hookers Munchin' Honey-Coated Holes.

This is a short but enjoyable right-facing dihedral, low angle finger crack. The crux is near the bottom.

The hangerless sport climb that turns the most obvious 4' roof at the Doughnut Shop. Scramble up left of a detached block, face climb up to the roof. Turn this crimpy reachy crux, which can be avoided by moving to the trad line on the right Doughynuts).

This climb exits the narrow square roof on the right side. Wide hands start, angle right on a ramp, exit the roof out the right.

This climb exits the larger 4' roof on the left side.  You're going to love the moves turning the roof.  I got up to it climbing a finger crack, just left of High-Heeled Hookers Munchin' Honey-Coated Holes.  Some junk rock at the top can be avoided if you stop at the anchor for High-Heeled Hookers.

This is a 50 foot southeast facing basalt crag with a handful of entertaining sport, crack and mixed routes. At one time the hangers were stripped for unknown reasons, but some have been replaced, and more will soon be rehangered. There is guaranteed to be no crowds here, as this wall is long forgotten and abandoned but still offers some fun climbing. 

  This area first appeared in the original "Sport Climbing in New Mexico" book by Randal Jett and Matt Samet. The Doughnut Shop excerpt from that book can be found here on the Los Alamos Mountaineers website.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Doughnut Shop