A powerful, fingery, and sustained route with quality rock and fun moves.

A bit of squeeze job down low, this route shares a few holds with Grip Tease right at the beginning and then veers right into a sequential crux of underclings, sidepulls, big moves and disappointingly slopey feet.  Make a tough clip, then fight over a small roof using small two and three finger pockets to a very sustained and pumpy section of finger buckets, edges, pockets and slopers that lead over the final roof to the chains of Bolts Not Bitches.

This thing is not over until you are standing on the slab, but even then you could blow the last few moves if you were pumped silly.

Breaking the Eye

Bolts Not Bitches

Lap Dance

Grip Tease

Pasties and a G-String

Halloween Parade

Lucky Boy

Busload of Faith

Straw Man

Really good climbing through overhanging jugs, slopers, sidepulls, and a two finger pocket up top.

Easy climbing for the first several bolts with a the crux at the top. Really good route.

Starts left of busload of faith, Slab start toss from bad hold to jug, then ledge, move right to knee bar, up pancakes and left to crux pulling the lip, jugs to finish.

Straight forward cobble pulling until the crux at the roof. Clip the bolt under roof at your waist off of huge jugs above and save energy for the last three or four bolts.

New addition as of Oct. 2013. The first bolt is located by a small  heuco in the wall. The route trends left.  No hard moves on the route, but the pump builds as you reach the anchors.

Awesome technical climbing in white cobble.  Small holds lead to crux about 3/4 of the way up. Very well protected, sustained and different from the rest.

If you have enjoyed the routes on Ammo Dump make your way into the canyon a little further for some more roped bouldering.

This climb doesn't give in till you've clipped the chains and packs a lot of climbing into a mere 45 feet.

Toehooks and some other fancy footwork can make the first part of the route somewhat easier, but only power will see you through if you're going to redpoint.

Clip the first bolt of Lucky Boy, then trend right heading up an independent line of bolts.

A few hard moves gain a large left hand jug cobble, then the madness starts.  Crank extremely difficult moves on absolutely horrible holds past two bolts to a 5.11+ finish.

The crux moves felt like V8 or V9 which left me wondering if some key holds have fallen out over the years.  Unless I missed something, or was having a very bad climbing day I would rate this more like mid 5.13.

Solid rock, very hard moves,

Get on it and comment on your experience.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Impact Zone Wall