This is a fun little climb that starts pretty easy up a slabby corner before depositing you onto a pocketed face.  The only bummer is that right as you are getting into a groove on some really nice slightly overhung pocket climbing you hit the chains and the ride is over.

Sleestak

Gold Standard

Lakota Gangster Messiah

Sazerac Crack

Moms in Mythos

Ghost Meat

Butter Astronaut

Grandma Fingers

Sacred Clown - Heyoka Roof

Third Intafada

Tears and Bubblegum (AKA Rainbow Guru)

Gravity Pope

This a very fun warm up for the crag up a featured corner that goes for a ways.  Lieback, stem,  then repeat all the way to the chains and an amazing view.

Left most route. Left of the boulder cave, and just right of the giant debris field. Starts on a ledge. Obvious bolted hand crack that gets steep and thin at the top.

The name alone gets it three stars.  Climb powerful sequences through good pockets and edges up the white overhung face.  Similar to other routes on this wall this climb is still sandy in places.  If you like the climbs at Mecca (Bazooka Face, July Jihad, The Last Starfighter) then this climb is for you.

Crack that gets progressively bigger until hands at top. Great route, try it out.

First pitch is Cibola Syndicate (10c), 2nd pitch Ghost Meat (10c).  Laybacking of immense proportions, amazing line. Visionary for the grade.

If doing pitch 2, pass the first anchors to a stance with anchors 15 feet higher.  belay from here for pitch 2.

Small smooth pockets up a face, feels like you'll melt off before you reach the flake with some really good movement before the anchors.

Pull an undercling roof (stick clip's nice here), then get trucking on a fingerjamming, laybacking fun time up a corner crack.

This is an amazingly varied route including liebacking, stemming, arete climbing, and it even pulls over a small roof near the top.  The only thing keeping this from getting four stars in my book is the fact that it is still a little sandy in several places.  I am sure that will clean up over time.

This is the reason you came all the way up here, and it doesn't get much prettier.  The techy lieback start will get your attention right off the bat as you smear your feet and slap your way up the overhanging blue and beige wall.  The climbing gets powerful as you figure out how to change from leaning left to right at the crux.  Amazing pinching on tufa-like holds follow the crux.  Keep it together for some more crimping and use of crack/ runnel feature climbing and you will have climbed one of the most unique 5.13s at Tensleep.  It is a shame there aren't more like this.

This diverse route starts with a hand jam and finger jam sequence, then leads to positive crimps and jugs up a vertical wall.  Super fun.

Climb the initial crack start of 'Tears and Bubblegum', then angle right onto the exposed face on great stone. Continue straight up on nice pockets and flakes until the last bolt. Rest here, then fire the last hard sequence to the anchor.

Super Classic!

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in City of Gold