This route climbs Cannibal Crag about 20 feet to the left of the left-leaning crack on the south-east side of the rock. Climb past three bolts to a cold shut anchor. The most obvious line takes you quite far right past the first bolt and then you have to swing back left to the second. Named for a moon of Uranus. A little spicy.

Caliban

A Man in Every Pot

Maneater

Wonderstuff

Baseboy (Bolted Variation)

Ma and Pa Kettle

Fuck this Sport (aka Fear this Sport)

You Are What You Eat

Pickled Cock

Save the Heart to Eat Later

Caustic Cock

New Wave Hookers

Vegans Only

Elbows of Mac and Ronnie

Mac and Ronnie in Cheese

Have a Beer with Fear

Nipple Fish

What's Eating You

Fear This

Baseboy

Begin at a scoop to the right of Fear This Sport.  Start by climbing the right of the scoop and trend left for a few bouldery moves.  Easier climbing after the first bolt.  An easier version of Fear This Sport; will clean up nicely with some travel.

Begins at the left edge of a white boulder that leans against the wall.  A little thin above the second bolt, but fairly straitforward. 

  Roxanna's book says that you must set up a gear anchor at the top of this climb.  There have since been bolts with chains installed at the top. 

  This climb is a good warm up for the 5.10a's to either side of it.

pretty straight forward. 4 bolts lead to a  cold shut anchor. crux comes after the third bolt. 

Just right of Maneater, this route starts by stepping off boulder and climbing way up to first bolt. Stick clip recommended (this is Red Rocks and holds break) for first bolt. Continue straight up edges and thru two large huecos to crux just below anchor.

This is an excellent variation to Baseboy, and is safely bolted.

No longer a great route for beginners, as the anchor is gone. If you climb this, after the third bolt you'll have to run it out to the top of the formation, belay your second up from a single bolt, and then walk off.

 Note: This route is really more like 5.6, but both guides call it 5.7-.

down and right of New Wave Hookers on chalked up holds, continue up hueco like feature to sidepull and bouldery crux to jug rail. Head up and right on crimpers then out right to pocket and up to anchors. Lots of sideways climbing but prettty fun.

This route climbs the left-leaning cracks on the south-east side of Cannibal Crag. Start in the left-most crack, merge with the second crack and shoot for the top of the boulder. Alternatively, you can traverse left near the top to the cold shuts on Caliban.

A very fun route that includes some footwork and fun moves on slightly overhanging rock.

A crimpy face climb that climbs the middle of the boulder. The crux is related to the holds disappearing the higher you go (past the 4th bolt).

This route follows the stunning arete feature on the NE side of the Cannibal Boulder.  Easy climbing up to the second bolt, where the real fun begins.  From here it gets steep and interesting.  The crux begins after the third bolt is clipped and includes a few desparate moves to surmount the cock, and a very desparate and kind of scary clip for the 4th bolt.  From there, a few airy crimpers lead up to bolted anchors. 

  This is a wonderful spot to get good climbing shots from the ground if you are a photographer.  The arete stands out against the skyline from both sides and the overhanging line looks absolutely awesome.  Be sure to bring your core face for the onlookers who frequent the area!

This climb starts off same start as Wonderstuff but traverse right on slopey rail over to second bolt, then straight up "bee-hive" looking rock (cruxy) to big moves on jugs. Best route at Cannibal.

A fun way to reach the top. A route route with great holds and feet for the person who wants to place a bit of gear with some bolts protecting a short crux. Take the 5.4 ramp to a bolt on the adjacent wall and make an airy step up on really fun holds and crimps to two horizontal bands to place some small gear and then up to a thin crack to clip the chains on top of Cannibal. Enjoy relishing in the fact that you didn't the third class ramp in the back to the top. Descent: Belay your partner up to the top and make it feel like a little desert tower and walk off the back (recommended) or lower or rappel back down. WATCH THE ENDS OF YOUR ROPE! Its a rope stretcher to come back down. 

Small crimps following the left-facing sidepull at the second bolt make-up the crux. The upper climbing eases substantially.

A good warm-up, with a weird mantle-like move towards the bottom.

After the first bolt there a reachy section that is a little sketchy if this is at your limit. The crux for a lot of people comes toward the top as your forearms begin to feel it. There is a nice jug a little above the forth bolt to clip from instead of making the hard clip from the crimps below.

The left handed crimp off of the left-facing jug flake near the bottom is definitely harder than 5.9 as is suggested by the Swain guidebook. The rest of the route is mellow.

This nondescript route is found on the west side of the Cannibal crag.  Climb two bolts of easy terrain to a few bouldery moves through a bulge which comes at the third and final bolt.  From here it is a bit of a run to the anchor on easier ground.  I think that I noticed a place you could put a fingerish sized cam in a horizontal if you wanted to cut down the distance between the last bolt and the chains.

A decent route with crack and face climbing, and good rest positions.

Gigantic boulder located near Red Spring.

Description

Protection

Routes in Cannibal Crag