Revolution Whenever

Ninja Turtle Crack

I Wanna Be Sedated

True Grit

Honest Abe

Magic Crack

Pull My Finger

Beta Maniac

Slim Pickens

La Petit Mort

Ring of Fire

Route 8

Route 4

Shamuvin'

It Just Turns Into A Seam!

Cactus Box

Right of the climbs through the high roof- is this left-facing corner, which is more awkward than classic, but still pretty fun. 

  This climb has a weird part off the ground getting onto a big block.  This is followed by an awkward move squirming into a flare, or liebacking to get in there.  I thought this part was the crux of the climb, and it protects pretty well with a finger size cam before you start the crux sequence.   At the top, pull on hand jams through a steep finish.  It's fun and easier than it looks like it will be. 

  Jemez Rock lists this as 5.11a; Josh said 10b, so I'll try to be honest and leave the rating in between.

A discontinuous crack climb with some long reaches. Named for the Ninja Turtle action figure (complete with parachute) that was wedged inside.

Climb to the top of a block on easy face/crack terrain, then move left and up the weirdly pocketed crack/face. Finish out the right side of the roof.

This rout ascends black rock just to the right of some bubbly basalt knobs. The first 15 feet are the crux, then some fun moves lead out of a scoop and continue up an overhanging wall to the top.

This climbed up the obvious S-shaped hand crack, then pull some technical maneuvers straight up the face above the S-crack. The climb is much harder than it looks.

Always dirty from runoff. Pull the handcrack and then straight up wider cracks to the top, or jump right and join the finish of It Just Turns Into A Seam.

A shallow dihedral to fingercrack, then straight out the roof at the top.

A shallow dihedral to a face, very thin and difficult moves on small holds.

Route #2 (off to the left) in my old guide. Climbs a right-slanting seam, then back leftwards in a discontinuous crack system.

This is perhaps the best route at the cliff, and may be the best hard crack climb in White Rock. Climb some thin face and crack moves for 20 feet to a 10 foot roof split by a hand/finger crack. Powerful moves lead out of the lip, then it eases up to the top.

Seam/face climb to a high roof (and crux). Quite tricky and powerful.

The crack out the right side of the Ring of Fire roof. I TR'd this line, but it wasn't ever led when I was living in Los Alamos. I'm sure someone has done it by now.

Dihedral climb right of Slim Pickens. Named because of the beached-whale style of the first ascent.

Up a dihedral, then some weird moves to pass a notched roof.

This route has two starts that are both about the same difficulty, leading to a large block with a cactus behind it. From the block continue straight up, then slightly left in the thin crack system.

This is a 45 foot tall south-facing basalt cliff with 25 traditional and toprope routes. The routes tend to be on the short side, but are extremely high quality. Most follow crack systems, though there are a few face routes worth doing. As far as I know, bolted routes are not allowed here, as topropes are fairly easy to set on the bench above the cliff, and many of the routes can be led with clean gear. This area has the largest concentration of hard crack climbs in White Rock.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Crack House (aka Estante Edge)