This is the first route one comes to after scrambling to the base of the cliff.

It's hard to distinguish now that the bolts are gone. It's about 20 feet left of a short chimney. Follow big holds to incipient cracks where pro may be placed. Ends at the top of a ramp, witch can be used for descent.

Road to Utopia

Bort

The Little Todd

I Dress My Self

Little Evil

Todd Gordon Memorial Chossy Pile of Radness  (aka The Big Todd)

This climb is easily seen from the Rattlesnake Parking area.  Look South, and hike up talus for about 5-10 min.  It is the featured face with the small roof near the top.  Little Evil climbs the face, starting on the left side, and traversing to the middle, and then to the top.  4 bolts, 1 FP, some natural gear to a 2 bolt rap anchor.

This route lies about 20 yards left of "Road to Utopia". There is a bush growing out of the rock at the base. Climb face past four bolts to a ledge with an oddly placed bolt. Move left then climb golden rock past another bolt to the anchor.

Slabby lower part is one big crux on crappy crimps and crappy feet. After the undercling is probably the real crux, disappearing feet and even more crappy crimps get you up to the ledge. Fun mantle over the ledge to finish may be yet another crux. Wanders a little far to the left of the bolt anchors, but safe as long as you've got a strong sheath on your rope for the swing =)

This route starts several feet left of the chimney. Follow face to cracks, to scoops. Since the bolts were chopped, I'm not sure what's on top for anchors.

Description

Protection

Routes in Somewhere n00b