starts at a small corner about 10' right of Runout Rodeo. up the shallow corner and then up and right, pass two bolts, right a bit more, and then up a shallow seam.    rap with one rope from the bolted anchor.

Fear & Loathing II

Walking the Vertical Beach

Liquid God

Squire

Mother's Milk

Chrome Dome

The De-Nogginizer

Runout Rodeo

Gonzo Dogs

Crazy Eights

A single long pitch to climb the cliff on sparse or interesting gear. A 60M rope MIGHT make the top, but I did it with a 70M and believe it would be a close call. As well, the bottom of the route is hard and would be a terrible place for a climber to fall simul-climbing.    Climb from the base of Gonzo Dogs, going up and right past some short slashes/seams/cracks to access the bottom of several bolts. Continue up these and to the face above to finish on easier, but runout climbing.  Belay up top from trad gear.

On the far left side of the dome. Climb the face to a left leaning seam through some improbable moves on the face (1 bolt).   

Start about 40' right of Fear and Loathing and locate the low first protection bolt in a small right facing corner.  Boulder out the overhanging start and get established on the face.  Follow the crack with good pro up and to the second bolt. From here angle slightly left to the anchor.

Climb the left side of a hueco covered pillar and pull a roof at the top.  The crux is probably the end.

This is the best of the three new routes that have been added to the left end of HSTD, and the easiest. Fun movements and good holds will make this route more popular for climbers seeking to climb moderates in the sun by the Black Corridor or Sweet Pain.  

  Start in the honeycombish pockets and follow the varnished holds to the top. 

  *NOTE* This route is still relatively new as of this posting (11/06) and although I spent some time cleaning more of the broken rock, there is considerable breakage of the rock edges that haven't yet been worn down. I would advise wearing a helmet to belay until these routes get some more traffic.

This route was said to be considered a 5.10, but I feel it is more in the 5.9 range. It is more difficult if you follow the direct bolt line (5.9+ maybe) but it appears that most parties stay left of the bolts until after the bulge. 

  *NOTE* This route is still relatively new as of this posting (11/06) and although I spent some time cleaning more of the broken rock, there is considerable breakage of the rock edges that haven't yet been worn down. I would advise wearing a helmet to belay until these routes get some more traffic.

This route starts about 30 feet to the right of Pretty In Pink. Big holds lead to a bouldery crux. Easier climbing leads you to a tricky bulge and then the chains.

The climb is described as a 2pitch climb by swain, with a 140' pitch followed by a  second to the top, but I did not find a good stance of anchor and preferred to climb this as a single 225' (70-meter) pitch to the top of the cliff.   Climb the right-most of the two left-leaning cracks on the left side of the wall to reach a big hueco and some bolts. Clip and go to reach a second crack system that runs out before the climb does- and leaves the leader to finish on a heady but moderate face.   Belay up top on trad gear.

This is a long route, and serves as a good warm-up. Climb the vertical varnished face through a series of high feet and good holds to the top. A few sections seemed to be confusing to the less experienced climbers in our group. 

  This route used ALL of a 50m rope, so it would be wise to knot the end of the rope as a protective measure when lowering-off. 

  *NOTE* This route is still relatively new as of this posting (11/06) and although I spent some time cleaning more of the broken rock, there is considerable breakage of the rock edges that haven't yet been worn down. I would advise wearing a helmet to belay until these routes get some more traffic.

This wall is a taller 'adventure wall' relative to some of the others in the area, like the Black Corridor and Sweet Pain Wall. 

  There are a mix of routes here, including gear and bolted lines, but some of the more attractive lines are in fact mixed, with a few bolts here and there, but certainly requiring some gear to feel sanely protected. The routes here range from 5.9 to 5.12, with the hardest of these having bolts at the cruxes. 

  This wall get's mixed shade and sun, but the lower part of the wall and belay tended towards shade early and late in the winter days.  

  The descent from the taller routes on this crag consists of walking and scrambling back and right down a gully or two and then traversing a very exposed rock slope (4th class, leave the sticky rubber on) to reach the base, or a very protracted gully-whack the long way down.  The cliff is not well advised for less experienced climbers. 

  The best route that I did on this cliff was Gonzo Dogs (10-). Walking the Vertical Beach was a little loose, but nice. Runout Rodeo was also fun.  I have not done the harder lines here.  

  Unfortunately, several people have seen it fit to use the gully at the base (the most natural and safe belay) as a latrine. Belaying off of the ridge behind the gully can be dangerous without a tiedown point. A lead-fall can suck the belayer off of it and drop then into the gully, over 3 meters- possibly letting go of the rope. 

  If you go to do the longest routes on the wall, take a 70M rope and stretch it create beautiful 222-235' pitches while avoiding bogus belays. 

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Hunter S. Thompson Dome