This is a short and exciting route that follows a wide crack/chimney to a left-leaning ramp and to the summit.

Start at the slot that you downclimbed for the approach. Follow the widening huecoed chimney until you can traverse left following a sandy, rotten ramp. Protection is adequate, but the rock is crumbly. After traversing some 15 feet, a finger crack will lead you through a weakness in the overhang and onto the summit.

Descend - downclimb the

East Face

(see

East Face

description).

West Face/Downclimb aka West Chimney

Huecool

Upclimb

East Face/Downclimb

Huecool is a short boulder problem (V0 = 5.10+?) on small huecos to a longer pitch (5.6-5.7?) through some body-sized huecos.

Start on a 2-finger pocket and poor feet on an overhang at the base, moving up and right to your choice of so-so holds, then up onto a small ledge. This V0 crux is protected by a spotter. From there, move up and left, then back right on big jugs to the huge hueco. Move out right through the hueco and over the overhang above, then up and over in an offwidth to get established on another ledge. Reach the East Face slab via a low angle chimney or a left-facing corner further West of there. From the East Face, the summit is only a few meters away.

There are a few short cruxes to this route: one being an insecure steep move prior to the finger crack, another being the sequence from the underclings through the juggy but long moves to get out from under the roof, and an additional one being the top-out to get established on the slab of the

East Face

, depending on where you choose to do so.

Start from the ground below the lower right roof, and work your way up to the bottom of that roof. By holds to the left and some underclings in the fingercrack, work up and left through the 2 roof sections and to the apex, where you can either continue left on the slanting flakes and ramps, or up and right over the roof itself on reasonably large holds. The latter finished up and right on insecure moves to gain the

East Face

, and the left negotiates flakes, slopers, and a ramp system to do the same further west. Either option is still only ~ 5.7.

Approach the rock by hiking down its North side to the low point of the rock.

Start at the low point and scramble upward. The South or left side of the face offers the easiest terrain although it can also be climbed via short incipient crack high on it's right side (slightly more difficult)

Descent - downclimb what you just did.

Description

Protection

Routes in Downclimb/Sentinel Pass