To get to this climb, scramble up and left along the base of the Sunshine Face.  The route follows a deep, narrow chimney up to the base of Paisano Pinnacle.  A crux overhang (fairly nice) leads to a tight, unpleasant 20 foot long squeeze chimney.  At the top of the climb, walk and chimney behind Paisano Pinnacle to the broad Paisano Ledge.  From there, you can downclimb Bye Gully or do a route (e.g. Continuation) to the top of the rock.

Paisano Chimney

The Man Who Fell to Earth

B.C.'s Ouch Chimney

Hit It, Ethel

The Source

Yaniro's Arch

Garbage Gulch

Domestic Friction

Someone Your Not

Tar and Feathers

Runout in Reverse

Chisholm Trail

Caliente

Euphoria

Clockwork Orange

This route is on superb rock with great climbing, and has a tricky crux. The headwall of the route is unusually steep rock for Suicide.

Pitch 1: Climb one of, Paisano Chimney, Clockwork Orange, or Euphoria.

Pitch 2: Follow the bolts directly across from the ledge. Slightly runout slab climbing leads to a small sloping ledge at the base of the right side of the Caliente inclusion.  Steeper edging brings one to the crux at the top of the inclusion.  From there, continue on easier climbing to the top.

Follow discontinuous thin cracks (10d) onto the face above (11a).  Kind of strange climbing that proves to be quite entertaining, with a little bit of run-out climbing.  A high quality route on good rock.

Despite the name, you won't be doing much chimneying on this climb.  It goes up a wide, very shallow slot on good rock, giving a full pitch of sustained and varied climbing.  This route is in the sun all day.  Getting up to the base of the climb requires a few 5.5 moves that many people do unroped.

Desperate moves over the roof lead to unprotected face climbing above (5.9).  Arranging protection can include double ropes, using one rope to "lasso" the obvious knob.  Hard moves in a great position.

Suicides finest route.

NOT.

Think of all the worst words used to describe a route.  Chimney, flared, loose, dirty, often wet, mossy, funky, somewhat difficult to protect.  Put them all in one sentence.  Congratulations!  You just described The Source!

So named because the FA party felt that the route was "the source of all evil".  Never a line on this one for some reason.

Very thin tip liebacking and face climbing up the right facing corner.

From the 2 bolt anchor below Chisholm Trail go left up a 3rd/4th class gully passing The Source and eventually reaching a pine tree.  Immediately after the tree turn 90 degrees right and climb up a 5.6 hand to finger crack to the top of the cliff.  Not nearly as bad as the name suggests.  The final crack is quite fun.

Well-protected and interesting face/friction moves with the crux just past the 3rd bolt.

Erroneously called "Miller Time" in the current guidebook.

The left arching thin crack.  Sustained and difficult to protect crack climbing.

This short face route has some fun moves.  To get to the start of the climb, scramble up and left along the base of the Sunshine Face, past Paisano Chimney.  A short rappel leads back to the base.

A right facing flare that presents challenging thin crack and face moves.  Face climb into the start of the flare (10a), then follow the crack (11b/c) to a two bolt anchor.

Superb climbing on great rock.

Pitch 1: Scramble up easy 5th class climbing and belay on a ledge at a 2 bolt anchor (40' left of

Paisano Chimney

). A short crack leads to 5.10c face climbing that takes you to the black inclusion. A series of reaches presents the crux of the pitch on the inclusion. Above the crux, runout 5.10d climbing takes one into a left leaning arch that contains a 2 bolt ring equipped belay.

Pitch 2: 5.10c climbing follows the arch to it's end, then up the easy face. A variation can also be done to the second pitch: from the belay step down a few moves, then pull over the arch and climb just above the lip of the arch (10d), tending left.

It is also possible to do this as a one pitch route, but rope drag factors in.

Pitch 1: Follow the large obvious flake system up to the base of the pinnacle.

Pitch 2: Turn the overhang on bolts and a move of aid, then continue up the face on 5.9 climbing. Outrageous location on the face of the pinnacle.

Follow a crack up to three bolts on the arete of the orange block.

Description

Protection

Routes in Sunshine Face - Left Side