Take the overhang directly in the center of the crag and struggle over it to gain the small crack that splits slab above.

Perhaps this is best climbed with a top rope.

Heads or Tails?

Allen's Arete Crack

O'Neall Overhang

Unknown Two Pin Route

Bob's Cat

Cracked Shell

Turtle Eye-Grr

Fiona's Route

Cold North Shell

Donovan's Dihedral

Water Groove

Just left of

Heads or Tails?

is another overhanging start to gain the slab.  Power over the stout lip via the jug at the lip and other hidden holds.

Perhaps this is best done as a top rope.

This micro-adventure avoids the big overhangs but snakes up nicely to the slab on the left hand arete.

There is a route that seems to be between

Fiona's Route

and

Heads or Tails?

and doesn't match a description submitted to date.

There are 2 starts to this.  The right start is probably the wiser one to do.  Clamber aboard the rock to the right of a right-facing dihedral with 2 obvious pins.  The left start involves a double sidepull move, a right foot cam, and a left foot on a slanting groove.  Watch the abductor move or you may scrape up your left shin.  Move left into the dihedral.  This will be tougher for the very short.  Go upwards and join one of the other crowded lines above on the slab.

There is a bolt next to a #2 Camalot crack for an anchor.

Start in the same dihedral as for

Fiona's Route

. Climb up to the tree, sling it as pro and continue RIGHT up the flake/crack to the 1 bolt shared by

Donovan's Dihedral

& Water Groove. Now veer back LEFT taking a crack through the bulge. Find a ledge to belay.

Climb the big, zig zag, roof crack and fight your way with hands and fists to gain the slab above.

Follow any route to the top.

This is the furthest route left on the crag and is approached via the gully on the left side of the whole crag.

The next line up from

Cold North Shell

.

This has an alpine, untouched quality of blocks and cracks to the top of the slab.  It is best climbed on a cold day with gloves as a winter primer. Get your young alpinistas started early.

This was the first route done on the crag and remains a favorite way to introduce newcomers to Turtle Rock.

Start in the short, steep, little, left-facing dihedral that sits 12 feet directly below a small tree. Climb a 5.7 shallow crack up to the tree and sling it for pro. Tip toe up and LEFT, out the slab to a bolt. Trend left into a crack and climb it to its top. Continue up until you reach 1 bolt anchor next to a nice crack for a hex.  Belay.

Continue up the mountaineering second pitch or carefully walk off to the RIGHT/south and down to the base.

Left into the gully, find the cold, north-facing wall of Turtle Rock. Piece together a nice little wall of flakes, cracks, and edges to join the left side of the main slab above.

This is a good introduction to alpine like rock conditions and for a first winter outing. It can be climbed in gloves.

This is the dihedral on the far RIGHT side of Turtle Rock and makes for a great first short lead climb for kids.

Start in a right-facing dihedral, then step left into a crack.

Climb up to the bolt. Stay right and traverse around right side of the bulge.

Find the good crack for belay anchors.

Start as with

Donovan's Dihedral

, but veer left after clipping the bolt into a shallow, water groove. Follow the water groove to its top.

Description

Protection

Routes in Turtle Rock: A Crag for Kids