Parting Line is the obvious chimney/crack climb on the southwest face. Hard to miss and not as easy as it looks. Decent, but typical Needles crack climbing with variety of foot and hand positions that can be molded into bomber holds. Not splitter by any means but not junky. If you've done Classic Crack in The Outlets, and enjoyed it, this line might be a good challenge for you. The Busse and Burr guidebook describe this route as being one pitch. My partner and I broke it up into two pitches, in regard for outdoor safety, since we only had one sixty meter rope at the time. Two seventy meter ropes might make the route an easy cruise.

Parting Line

Grecian Formula

Comb Over

Rogaine with Minoxidil

Chrome Dome

Pigeon Roof

Male Pattern Boldness

Receding Fall Line

Wiggy

Curly

Fritz's Forehead

This route starts to the right of the wall with many new routes on it.  This wall is also the wall used to descend this route.  1 200 ft rope will do just fine.  Pigeon Roof starts on a face next to a chimney and works on to the face which has one bolt on it, take care in protecting the moves to the bolt.  After the bolt you move up into a right facing corner and climb the crack / dihedral.  This route then moves up through the big roof which is visible from the ground. After the roof there is not much for gear - I did not see any bolts, but I did get some #1 camalot into a horizontal break which lead me to a big horn.  Have fun this route was fun and kind of spicy so be a little prepared.

Scramble up some schist and follow the wandery 1/4" bolts (extend to avoid rope drag) to the hand crack. Climb the crack to an anchor. Easy low angle climbing from the anchor get you to the top.

This route is best approached via the bouldering trail.  When you reach the bouldering areas and the trail forks left or right walk straight up to the steep section of wall on Baldy. 

  Comb OverP1 5.10c	90ft 	Bolts

 This route starts 20 ft right of Wiggy on the right side of the tree.  Start on the overhanging schist and then head directly up over the bulge on the face above pulling the first crux.  Once over the bulge traverse to the right heading to the steep arête via some cool holds.The arête has great exposure.  Stand tall, make the moves, and the bolt will be there before you know it. FUN STUFF. Anchors are just below the roof. 

  P2 5.10c/d		90ft	Bolts 

  Interesting moves right off the anchor.  You can clip the first bolt before you leave the anchor.  Move up the slab to the roof and up and over for a crux.  Follow bolt line up the steepest part of the wall to the anchors.

Far to the left of the "newly bolted" routes past a large chimney system you will see a couple of beefy bolts going up some schist.  This is the route.  I believe there were about 6 bolts plus gear placements to a two bolt anchor on the face.  I think there are then 5 bolts on the second pitch with some gear placements as well.  Belay counter-weighted in a hole and walk off the back.  The crux is clipping the 3rd bolt on the second pitch.

This route is best approached via the bouldering trail.  When you reach the bouldering areas and the trail forks left or right walk straight up to the steep section of wall on Baldy. 

  Chrome DomeP1 5.10c		60ft	Bolts 

  Start is to the right of Receding Fall Line.  Gently scramble up the schist clipping a bolt with a long runner to protect standing up to reach the good rock and the second bolt.  Pull the overhang up onto the face and the crystals above.  The pitch end with fun moves on dinner plates to the Receding Fall Line anchors. 

  P2 5.11c	100ft	Bolts 

  This pitch shares the first two bolts with Receding Fall Line but instead of breaking left, it heads straight up the headwall. Phenomenal climbing on dinner plates, horizontal seams, and a crystal crux all on steep exposed terrain! So Good!  

  When rapping off these anchors you may want to tie knots in the ends of your rope.

Begin with a quick scramble up the beginning of (parting line) to the top of a detached pillar on your right where the first pitch starts.

 P1:  from the top of the pillar move out right clipping bolts then finish in the small chute possible finger sized gear to protect. 5.10 3 Bolts. 

P2: traverse out right to your one and only bolt then continue trending right and up to the anchor. 5.7 1 Bolt.

 P3: from anchor follow the bolts up the black water streak and look for the sweet granite two finger pocket by your last bolt then cruise to the anchors and scramble to the top. 5.8 4 Bolts.

Descent: Walk off

P1 5.10 c/d	65ft	New Bolts/Small Gear 

  This is the original line on the wall.  It wanders back and forth between Comb Over and Chrome Dome following the weakness.  This route was put up on the lead hence it is spicy in spots especially on the traverse for the secondbut not pg13.  The start is just to the right of Comb Over in the dihedral. Clip a bolt, then place some gear, then clip a bolt and begin traversing to the right, clipping two more bolts on the way to the anchors.   

  P2 5.10		100ft	New Bolts/Gear 

  Starts out right of anchors and shares first two bolts with Chrome Dome.  After the first two bolts head left back toward Comb Over avoiding the steep part of the wall clipping 2 or 3 more bolts and then working your way up the next 50 feet of moderate climbing slinging crystals and placing gear where the rock allows.  

  When rapping off these anchors you may want to tie knots in the end of your rope.

These routes are best approached via the bouldering trail.  When the trail T's left or right to go to the various bolders just walk straight up to Baldy. 

  P1 	65ft	Bolts and Gear5.7	This left most route.  Starts with a couple of bolts and then heads into the crack that takes gear up to 2.5 inches.  Clip one more bolt after the crack ends and then to the anchors. 

  P2 		95ft	Bolts and Gear5.10d/11.a Continue up the crack placing gear up to 2.5 inches until you reach the arête.  Clip bolts on the arête as you stem up the grove.  At the last bolt on the arête pull over onto the face and head up to the little roof on the headwall.  Clip bolts and enjoy the fun moves to the top. 

  This route needs a little cleaning. Great warm up. 

  When rapping off these anchors you may want to tie knots in the end of your rope.

This route is best approached via the bouldering trail.  When you reach the bouldering areas and the trail forks left or right walk straight up to the steep section of wall on Baldy. 

  CurleyP1 5.10d/11a 	90ft	Bolts 

  This route starts right of the unkonw Route and left of Combover.  Gently scramble through the schist clipping the first 1 bolt in the schist.  Follow the bolt line up the face climbing through several cruxes finishing on fun slab moves. 

  P2 5.10d		90ft 	Bolts 

  Follow the bolt line up to the top anchors.  Moderate, fun movement up to a little roof.  Pull a few crux moves and finish with more fun moderate movement.

  5.10a	200ft	Bolts and Gear 

  This route starts 20 ft right of Wiggy on the arete. Gently climb up the schist reaching left to clip the first bolt on the arête.  Pull over onto the arête and follow the bolt line up the face. Super fun 5.9/5.10 moves.  After about 55 feet bale into the deep crack, placing gear up to _as big as you want_. After about 75 feet you will emerge out of the crack and begin clipping bolts pulling super fun moves on dinner plates to the anchors of Curly.

Old Baldy is the huge dome shaped rock in the Old Baldy area.  Pick it out by looking for the largest formation.  Although Old Baldy is not largely developed, there are some older trad routes and some newer sport routes put up in the last few years.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Old Baldy