Start in the right hand chimney, past 2 closely placed bolts.  Featured chimney climbing leads to easier ground.  From here, stem across to the wall on the right.  Steeper, juggy climbing leads to an anchor.

See "Guilty as Charged" for topo photo and description.

If I Did It

Judgito

Oompa Loompa

Mimosa

Jersey Tan

Mountain Projekt Approved

Slow Speed Chase

Guilty as Charged

The Moose is Loose

White Bronco

Darksaber

Cheesy Puff

The clean, left hand, left leaning chimney.  Follow a 3rd class rib to the first bolt.  The chimney tightens down at the second bolt.  Third is a bit hard to see while leading but can be felt on the right side of the chimney.  A cruxy move leads to easier chimenying above. This route is somewhat hard to clean while leading, better to have the second clean it on TR.

*Update 5/24/18: An additional 5 bolts have been added to link this climb to two more moderate pitches above (previously the upper pitches of "Mimosa").*

aka "Pine Creek two-step".

P1:  (5.8) SPORT/10 or 15 bolts/110' or 150' Scramble up and right in a gully to the first bolt. Clip two more bolts then get your slab on. Continue up easier terrain to a bulge, then continue left to a sting in the tail. Lower from here, or continue past the anchors and 5 more bolts to an open belay left of the "Mimosa" anchors.

P2: (5.7) SPORT/10 bolts/105': Move left, clip a bolt then mantle onto easy slab. Continue up fun, easy climbing. A short jug-haul delivers you to anchors and an cool stance below a dihedral.

P3: (5.9) SPORT/6 bolts/60': Climb the fun dihedral capped by a roof, then continue up easier terrain to the anchors. Great position with fun moves.

Scramble up a short optional-gear dihedral then step left to clip a bolt. Pull through a roof then continue up an easy ramp to a steeper face (crux). Pull through, and continue up fun climbing to anchors.

Longer than it looks!

From the ledge, climb up and left to gain a fun groove through the slab. Continue up a short techy face to an arete. Balance your way up the arete (crux) to a shallow ramp. Continue up and right, then back left to anchors.

P1 (5.10c) 9 bolts/110' (first pitch:***): Climb past 3 bolts through the initial face, then up easier terrain to the steep head-wall. Engaging climbing brings you to the crux just below the anchors. Pull the small roof to the anchor stance.

P2 (5.8) 11 bolts/110': Climb up and right on ramp to a short headwall, climb through that to easier ground. Continue up the featured head-wall to the anchors.

This route is a 2nd pitch variation to the Moose is loose.

P1 (5.10b) MIXED-100': Climb past a bolt to a roof, then place an optional .75". Step left and place a 2" piece under the first roof. Move left past the first corner, then clip a bolt above. Move left again and then right onto a slab. Climb the sustained, bolted slab to a ramp and a final layback past a fixed draw to the anchors.

P2 (5.7) MIXED-175': Continue up easier mixed terrain, passing a set of rappel rings. A final bolted face (crux) delivers you to anchors.

P3 (5.9) MIXED-70': Traverse left and up to a gear-protected dihedral, capped by a small bulge and a bolt.

A good variety of crack climbing on this one, with some featured patina face in the middle. Pitch 1 follows a hand crack in a V shaped flare. Jamming, stemming and a little chimney technique gets you to a short but steep flake section.  Step left, clip a bolt and move up the feature face to 2 bolt anchor.

Pitch 2 continues up the featured face, past a bolt to the base of a left facing dihedral.  From here, work up and right to a thin crack through a bulge (crux, green or yellow alien).  Continue up this crack, staying right of the large bush.  The crack enters a small corner, with a cruxy bolt protected move.  2 bolt anchor above.

Just to the right of "Slow-speed Chase". An imposing roof move above the first bolt prompted us to install a fixed draw for the crux. Look for the "golden draw" at the second clip.

Climb up an easy ramp to make a clip under a roof. Position yourself for the fixed clip just above the roof, then "ride the bronco" to bolts above.

Some mixed but well-protected 5.10 climbing above keeps the interest, as does the final dihedral to the anchors.

The eye-catching serrated splitter directly across from Sunflower Tower.

Battle the overhanging hand to finger crack as it cuts wildly through an exposed arete. Engage the face above to the anchor with fixed steelies.

The legendary lightsaber, a deep almost impossible black blade with a glowing white edge. The wielder's thoughts flow through the crystal, use the Force to guide the blade's power.

Climb fun features to a stance below a blank-looking slab. Get your slab on, then continue up easier terrain to anchors. Longer than it looks.

Description

Protection

Routes in OJ Buttress