One of the shorter pitches on the Front Side.  Barely overhung, but with fun moves.  Lunar Abstract even gets a little sun, unusual for Hueco 5.12's. 

  The pitch begins with barn door lie-backing up a left facing, left leaning, small flake-corner.  Hard to see the gear placements on the way to the first bolt.  Three bolts protect face climbing on ivory-like rock. End at a double bolt anchor, about 70 feet up.  

Lunar Abstract

Banana Patch

Malice In Bucketland

Lunacy

Hueco Syndrome

Divine Wind / All the Nasties

Bitchin Chimney

Uriah's Heap

Walking on the Moon

All the Nasties

Sea of Holes

Cowboyography

Window Pain

Alice in Banana Land

Busted

Purple Microdot

Brain Dead

This is a nice crack for those who want to practice carrying a big rack.  It looks like a 100 foot offwidth but is really a stemming corner with a big crack for pro.  After the wide section, the crack decreases in size to fingers.  Above the finger crack is a ledge with two bolts.  Outstanding pitch!  

  From the end of pitch one it is possible to do a 60 meter rappel.  (two 60 meter ropes) 

  Pitch two is a wide crack through a roof, above which more squeezing leads to the summit.

A clean line following a thin crack. It starts up a thin seam for about 15 ft. The crux is traversing 10 ft to the right to reach the bottom of another thin finger crack. It is mostly a mental crux, requiring good composure as you face a near groundfall. A few moves up the finger crack and the climbing becomes easier although still steep. Big huecos to either side of the crack provide rest holds and gear-placement stances. The crack ends by petering out next to a huge chimney.   A very exposed move bridges the chimney at an obvious weakness, and traverses right for a few feet before climbing up to a ledge/bush and a bolted anchor. 

  An alternate start (also 5.10) is to climb the face 4 ft to the left of the chimney to a bolt 15 ft off the ground, and then make a few moves to the left to reach the upper thin crack.  

  Some delicate climbing involved, fun exposed moves, and good gear makes this route a worthy tick.

Pretty good intro to the Hueco roped routes. Right off the Malice Boulder, jungle gym your way up big deep huecos to the first bolt (about 25' up), then move left and up the rounded arete past seven more bolts, working huecos and good edges. Head up and right at the last bolt to get to the two bolt anchor. There are some pretty good stretches between bolts on this route, so climb carefully!

Two short pitches (could be combined?). the first is 5.8+ up moderate huecos. The second tackles a short corner and some face climbing.

From the top of the Malice Boulder, this route is located on the shoulder immediately to the right of Paul Bunyon Chimney.   

  P1 Climb well featured rock as you angle up and right towards Urinal Ledge to 2 bolt anchor.   

  P2 First bolt off of Urinal Ledge is to the left and up about 6 feet.  Follow featured rock up to the headwall, wandering right past a rusted 1/4" bolt, and then continue without gear to a large ledge at the base of a few short cracks.  You can traverse further right on this pitch and start clipping the bolts of Brain Dead/All The Nasties, or move left off the belay and pick up some mystery bolts that randomly appear. 

  P3 is 18' of 2" hand crack to reach summit via 5.5 climbing.  Use gear and natural features to set anchor.   

  Walk off to climbers left towards Laguna Prieta.  Be sure to scramble down to a break in the wall before reaching the lagoon. Continue back across toward the Front Side and Lunch Rocks.  

  Note:  Descent can take as long as 20 minutes even if you know where you are going.

Why would anyone jump onto this squeeze chimney route while surrounded by quality sport and trad lines and even higher quality bouldering? The Sherman Guide for Hueco tanks (2nd edition) states "... it has only been climbed once by a skinny and lanky person who said it was tight.", so you'll probably feel like the second person ever to climb this route. I sure did. Not being an avid wide-crack or chimney climber, I was intimidated by tackling the route. Nothing about it looks all that difficult, but you may as well forget about protection. Much to my surprise and enjoyment, I realized that for squeeze chimneys such as this one, protection isn't required for making you feel secure. Of course, I'm also a fairly skinny person... If you're here and up for it, jump on this route for a secure-feeling, but mostly solo squeeze climb.

Good fun climb with a small roof section on p2. Third pitch is kind of run out with very little for placements. Bolts on third pitch are far to the left near a cactus, this is also the first set of bolts for the rap down.

Described as "hair raising" in the guide, this runout route fits the bill.  Very fun bouldery start directly in front of juniper tree using large huecos.  Climb up 10' to first bolt then follow features up another 10' or so to a second bolt.   

  Wander up and left using the path of least resistance for 80 feet until you reach a small vertical crack that takes marginal small to medium nuts for protection.   

  Travel another 15' up and right to a 3rd bolt directly left of a flake with huecos that can be slung if you don't see the bolt or like a little added protection.  Cross over the flake by traversing up & right 8' where you will find the 4th and final bolt before running it for the anchors. 

  Bolted anchors allows for easy rappel (1 84m or 2 50m+ ropes required)

the first pitch is fairly bold, with scant bolts and some loose rock. Climb past the first bolt (~25ft high) to a thin crack which can be protected with small wires. Then head right past 2 bolts before heading left underneath a small bulge to the last bolt. Belay on a nice ledge with a solid two-bolt anchor (100' to ground).  

  Pitch 2 is easier, has better rock and excellent protection. Gear required for the belay at a huge ledge. A short 3rd pitch up cracks leads to the top.

A popular route. Both pitches are long and with widely spaced bolts which makes it feel less like a sport climb. It is possible to supplement the bolts by placing large cams in some of the "holes", but this hardly feels necessary. The 2nd pitch traverses right to within 15' of the tree in the corner, before going straight up the steep headwall (crux).The entire climb is steep climbing up huge huecos. Pumpy, but not technically difficult.  

  The good exposure and stinginess of bolts are what make this climb exciting.  Take it for what it is.

This amazing route has 2 distinct cruxes at 1/3 and 2/3 height. Expect a couple arm-melting runouts on large huecos with the crux being small crimps and shallow dishes.

The line follows clean and well featured rock with the bolt line easily seen from the ground.  

  3 or 4 bolts and 35' up you will encounter a roof where there is a bolt hidden above.  Continue on steep rock up and right to 2 bolt anchor & rappel.  

  More tightly bolted than neighboring routes it provides some welcomed comfort as the rock is steep and sustained.   

  Excellent climbing and a must do for any Hueco Tanks visit.

Reach high for a jug (may be a difficult start for the shorter  folks), and trend up and right to the first bolt about 15 feet up. Continue up through the bolts. The bolt spacing is enough to make you think, but not terrible for someone who is solid at the grade. Fairly well protected for Hueco standards. Excellent climbing will eventually bring you to a point where there is a crack and no more bolts. The options here are a few medium to larger sized nuts, some small cams, or running it out. 

  The guidebook notes that this route is 105 feet. This is clearly not true as the mid mark of our rope was a good 15-20 feet up. Two ropes are required for the rappel.

Ascends a steep buttress above the anchors for Alice in Bananaland. Fun climbing with a great position. Tops out near top of Cakewalk. Walk off as for Cakewalk.

My friend George Bracksieck told me Mike Head described this route to him over the phone when Heuco Tanks was still a "secret" climbing area. This description is the variation 1st pitch of Purple Microdot. Find the middle crack with a hole near the bottom.

 Start from below the crack and place a fat nut in the slot below the hole. Return to the ground and start the climb on the right face traversing left into the crack, stepping on the nut you placed. Climb the varying width crack till the right "hands" crack joins, some 25m. Move out onto the right face (Begin R section), girth hitch a dubious hole before clipping the bolt. Move up then traverse back left toward the incipient crack in right facing corner. With the slot over your head move up to place the #4 and exit left to two bolt anchor.

 P2 Follow the arching right facing roof around corner then climb corner to the top (hope to add details at a later date if I'm not to old to lead it again.

 The right crack is very nice & is an easier lead, it can be TR.

 From P1 60m does NOT make it to the ground, for the decent, don't know if a 70m will make it?

If you've been loving those iron-rock in-cuts on the boulders, then this might be the pitch for you.  Laurel Lacher, in Rock & Ice #36, called this pitch:  "...one of the most tenuous 5.10+'s at Hueco."    

  To begin, climb either Divine Wind / All the Nasties up to the two bolts on "Urinal Ledge".   

  Brain Dead is the second pitch and starts off the right side of the belay.  Follow a line of nine bolts up the center of a steep, perfect, slab of iron-rock.   

  After 50+ meters, the pitch ends on a big ledge with no easy anchor. We did it with a 50 meter rope and barely had enough rope to sit way back on the anchor-less belay ledge.  I remember dusting off a nub on the ledge to sling like a horn and using a fat rope and hip belay for bringing up my second safely.  

  The final pitch is a 100 foot exit crack, maybe 5.5, from the big anchor-less ledge to the summit.

The large wall on the west side of North Mountain. Scope it out as you drive into the park. The central wall is the section between Split Boulder and the huge corner with the tree in it.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Central Wall