Was shown this problem recently. It starts high on the arete to the right of Big Mouth and climbs left into the face and tops out as for Big Mouth.

**

There is also a low start that begins on the dish you use for feet once you establish onto the higher arete.

Steven's Arete

Surfboard

Baldy

Cheese Whiz Stand Start

Arete

Lance’s slab

Two Giant Steps

Mr Smiley

Other Roof

Green Face Sit Start

Sharpie

Slabmaster

Caress

Surfboard Sit Start

Mantle Man

Butt Trumpet

Butt Trumpet Reverse

Butt Trumpet Direct Mantle

Pooper

Cheese Whiz

Green Face

Smiley Right

The Knob

Kung Fu

Draw

Webb's Slab

Big Mouth

Start standing to the right of the offwidth. Make a few moves then reach out right to a knob on the arete. Finish on sidepulls and crimps.

(AKA: Double Arete) The Crux comes when throwing for the obvious flat section towards the top of the Arete. Small holds and feet lead to more promising climbing at the top.

SDS on great edges at the base of the arete and make your way the right-sided arete to the top.

Probably best done in cooler temps.

On a separate boulder uphill from the main area.  Start on the jugs near head height in the middle of the overhanging face.  Move up the overhang using more jugs and make a committing mantle over the top.

A sit start goes at V11, too hard for me.

A few footholds are on the east face, but the more direct line just hugs the arete. Start either to the left or right of "Caress" and skip the sitting start.

Left of the arete start low on small feet, and dance your way up those tiny crystals to a committing and balance intensive last move. Try not to scrape your face off

Do you have the reach? If you do then this is a pretty enjoyable line up the left side of the smiley face.

Start pinching the arete with left and right on a small sidepull. One long reach to an edge at the top of the ramp for the right, followed by a long reach to a rail.

Start left hand on a decent crimp and right hand to the right, on the least bad part of the rail. Get a high right foot on the ledge, and cross to another decent crimp. Work up the rail, find a hidden hold on the face, then move left to the good rail and top out.

Sit start matched on right facing flake. Go up and left to finish on Cheese Whiz

Start sitting and just to the right of green face with hands on the underpull. Move up to the crimp and onto the traditional green face start. Adds more fun to an already great route.

Start sitting on the big jug and pull up to the arete.  Turn the corner and cruise the slab to the top.

Climbs the right side of the slab, just left of the arete.

Sit start in the small cave to the left of Green Face - start on a small low pinch for the right, and a so-so low sidepull on the left. Make a big move up and right to a positive sidepull, then heal hook onto the arete. Move up the crimps to the undercling, nice safe moderate top out. Climb down the ramp on the back of the boulder.

Note: there are other methods to start this problem, the sidepull/pinch works for me. Also, you can use a higher left jug/sidepull to start, goes at easy V5-ish.

Pull up onto the arete from a sitting position using a low right hand crimper and a far left edge - make a big move out right to a decent sidepull (left toe hooking helps), shuffle the feet and slap around until you gain the starting position for Surfboard. Finish as usual.

Note: you might be able to go straight up, but the right sidepull makes the problem.

Start on sloper and sloper crimp at shoulder height and mantle

Start low, matched on a big left facing sidepull. Make a move up to the slopey lip then try not to hit any sour notes as you traverse right to join Kung Fu for a tricky mantel. An excellent techy problem that will test your sloper strength.

Start on Kung Fu, then do Butt Trumpets in the opposite direction and end with an easy mantle above the start of Butt trumpets

One of the premier mantles of the canyon. Sit start as for Butt Trumpet, make moves over right into the slopey lip for the right hand and big sidepull for the left, and mantle straight up. Can be done a couple different ways. Finish straight up the slab.

From the BB, Start with both hands on the low crimp rail in the middle of the north face, and climb up to the lip. A variety of mediocre holds are available along the way.

Start with both hands in an undercling about 5 ft up. From there either move right to a crimp, or left to a worse crimp. Move upward, and get your right hand into a slight depression over the lip that's not near as good as you would like. Move upward and leftward to top out on more crimps with very small feet.

The holds on top are not completely obvious, but they are there. This seemed to be easier for taller people, but still very doable for shorter people. I like crimps with good technical movement, and this problem has lots of this.

Start on the Smile, move right to an intermediate or go straight for the jug. Move back left on great incuts and edges finishing in between the Surfboard and OW.

Sit start may add a number grade of difficulty...

This problem is basically Baldy with bad beta, considering it starts and finishes in the same place, and all the holds on Baldy are within reach.  That said, it's a very fun eliminant problem.

Start on the flat edge of Baldy, do the first move, then bust left to the crimp rail on the face.  Avoid using the arete after the first move, and top out with the same cool mantle as Baldy.

Utilize the opposing sidepulls and a high right foot to perform a tricky mantel.  Finish straight up the slab.

Climb slab just left of arete (using bad arete holds)

Start this problem with both hands on the right side of the crack with both feet on the left side. Getting the start and the next few moves seems to be the crux of the problem for most. The feet are getting polished, no doubt by all the traffic this problem sees.

The higher you go, the wider the crack gets: it gets easier to lieback the further away from the ground you get. There are some large holds on the right face that can be used as well once you get high enough. If you are tall enough, then you can reach the top from a standing position on one of those large holds, but if you want the full lieback experience, then stay in the crack until you top out.

Description

Protection

Routes in 5 Mile Boulders