Yet another excellent Gorge slab climb at the DMZ, its only flaw is that it squeezes in on Holocaust at mid route.

Hike up big jugs to the first bolt, a good mantle then work up and left at the third bolt before heading up and back right. Pretty sustained and the easiest line wanders a bit more than Holocaust.

Breaking the Law

Another Brick

[Redacted]

Come of Age

Gecko

Easy Enough

Brandenburg Gate

Wild Humans

Fingertip Ledge of Contentment

Take the Shot

Cobbler's Delight

Tear Me Down

Checkpoint Charlie

Transcendence

Berlin Wall

Doesn't Anybody Work Around Here?

Fun mixed face and crack climbing up a left facing corner leads to a fun steeper section with big holds and great pockets. My favorite warm up with morning sun. After a short wide section move right onto the face and finish with fun steep jugs. The anchor that is straight above the crack is for Tear Me Down and getting to it is a dirty loose

OFF ROUTE

chimney. Keep an eye out for the bolts out right to finish on the best part of the route.

Bonus access  to Tear me Down and Breaking the law for a TR

Holocaust is a wicked good Gorge slab climb.  Great moves and really sustained through the 5th bolt then eases off just a wee bit and the bolts get a little farther apart.  Finish up big jugs on the steep head wall.

Clean face with mostly positive crimps and a reachy crux above the last bolt.

Fun vertical edges up a short clean face.

Easy crack climb with a move of 5.7 near the top

Pitch 1: 10a, Start on Cobbler's Delight, continue up moderate terrain, then up and left to an anchor. 9 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. 35 meters

Pitch 2: 10a, Climb the face above to a crack system that leads to the top dihedral. Cracks of all sizes and fun face, this pitch has it all. 10 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. 30 meters

Top of pitch 2 is not at a stance, rock deteriorates up higher. Recommend leader lower to top of pitch 1 and give follower a belay from there.

5.9 and 5.10 moves reasonably well protected. Expect some run-outs on more moderate terrain.

Good fun!

Rappel the route.

Fun climbing, a brief but hard to figure out slab crux leads to a juggy head wall.

The rock on the first 25 feet isn't the best, but the climbing is good and pretty easy in this section.  There is a bolt right there at the crux where a couple of good horizontal hand holds are frustratingly out of reach just when the foot holds disappear.  A novel approach will make the crux 5.10c, don't get stumped.

Several cruxes.  First 45 feet are a bit crunchy but climbing above is worth it.

70m rope barely makes the lower.

Clean crack.  Takes an extra star for being a gear route.

Climb the crack to the Transcendence anchors just right of the route proper.

Best route on the wall IMHO. Nice big positive edges on the first half leads to a thin traverse right. The wall steepens and the edges get smaller but remain positive. A thin couple of moves where the wall transitions to a lower angle finish is the crux.

Climb past two buldges (crux) on the first half to slab then up the headwall (crux) to mussy hooks.

Clean face; crux where it's steeper in the middle.

This is the furthest left route at the DMZ. It climbs the clean buttress just to the left of the

Breaking the Law

and

Holocaust

. The climbing get increasingly steep with a crux section of sustained edging between the 5th and 6th bolts.

Fun overlooked slab climb with fun movement and some cool features. Crux is between the fifth and sixth bolt where dual monodoits lead to a delicate high step.

Nice morning sun for those cold mornings

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in DMZ