Climb the main arete of the boulder. Between Tiger King and the Lynx. Straight up and top out.

 V4 variation: Skip the holds just after the start (the next holds for Tiger King or those for Lynx), and go straight up into the big pocket at the bottom of the arete. Huge move, helps to cam foot in the rock. 

Snarly Arete

Cougar Pounce

The Lynx

King Snarl

High Cat Right

Wildcat Warmup

High Cat Left

Hell Kitty / Here Kitty

Tiger King

Way of the Cat

Way of the Wildcat

Chapter Four

Tiger King Jr.

Corner Route

King Lynx

Scratching Post

Lynxup

Same start as The Lynx, on main holds. Instead of going out to the right, go up left to two large crimps on the celing. Climb up and out, to the left. Avoid the large jug to the right (this is Tiger King JR).

A fun stemming / mantle problem. Left side of boulder, sit start. This route has had some MAJOR cleaning since its first send.

Starts with right hand on main low jug start and left hand on low rail. Go up and right, making some decent-sized throws out to smaller pocket holds with good friction. go straight up and top out. 

Start on sidekick boulder, traverse left and top out on the Snarly Arete.

A great traverse and endurance tester - plus it's fairly high off the ground!! Start all the way at the very left end of the boulder on crimps - as far out left as you can possibly go. Climb all the way around the boulder staying on the HIGH rail to go around the corner into pockets and continue on the high traverse until you reach the Lynx.

 Top out on the Lynx (or on the Snarly Arete - fewer moves but still about the same grade.. but I prefer the Lynx topout because then the route climbs all the way around the rock.

 I suggest climbing the direct lines first and working the traverse in parts with pads, since you cannot possibly protect the entire traverse. Distribute your pads wisely when attempting the entire traverse. Consider placing a pad for the topout, and/or coming around the corner above "Here Kitty."

Starts on the "sidekick" boulder all the way right. Traverse left, then top out sidekick boulder. Step over left into the Lynx and top out. 

High Traverse. Start as for The Lynx OR start all the way out right on the sidekick boulder - either way, the traverse is about the same grade. Traverse left from midway up the Lynx staying on the high holds. Continue traversing left around the corner, staying on the high rail and climb the boulder ALL the way to the far left side with small crimps at the very end. Top out.

Start sitting or low on the bottom of the left side of the main roof. Climb up jugs to a mantle topout. Left variation is Hell Kitty, right variation is Here Kitty. 

SDS for Cougar Pounce, then traverse right on the low rail. Top out on Hell Kitty.

Low traverse, left to right.

 Starts at the bottom of cougar pounce (the beginning of the low seam, on the left side of the boulder). Follow the low rail out right, and come around the corner into the cave area. Stay along the low rail, and finally go up from the start of the Lynx into the Lynx topout.

 Variation: Can be climbed in reverse. Start low for the Lynx and go left. Same grade.

Stand start to the right of the prow in the corner pocket above the sand-choss. Follow the holds on the right side of the prow out left. Jump out to the nose and then mantle up. Recommend stacking pads to brush the prow.

 Topout is crux. Don't want to fall on this one, landing is sloped and you and/or your pads might be sliding down the hill.

 Don't recommend trying unless you are very comfortable with the grade. Downclimb is also a bit dangerous. Once you topout, walk to the left about 10-15 feet and then carefully downclimb.

Same start / climb as Tiger King, but the huge jug on the left is on for feet and/or hands. 

 Huge jug might one day break off, seems solid for now but I wouldn't recommend a dead hang or dynoing.

Starts in the corner to the right of the Lynx. Goes up to the jug hold that is usually used as a heel hook for the Lynx. Easier route, but not as fun. 

Start on the sidekick boulder, traverse into the main boulder and top out on Tiger King.

Climb from the start of Cougar Pounce up to the rail that goes out left. Follow this to thin crimps and tiny feet and climb the topout at the very edge - the topout to High Cat Left. 

Start on the sidekick boulder all the way to the right. Climb left but do NOT climb on top of sidekick boulder. Heel hook and cross out into the holds on the Lynx. Top out the Lynx.

I saw the Wildcat main boulder while hiking on the main trail with my wife, and put a LOT of work into cleaning the topouts while also minimizing erosion. The routes are still fairly new, so I would recommend bringing a brush and maybe an old towel.The main boulder is quality sandstone and offers many warmup and moderate routes. There are even more variations than I will post here, but I am sharing all of what I think are the 'true' routes on the boulder.The great thing about this rock is you can more or less climb into any of the other routes at most points in time.With this (and other) sandstone, it is best to wait at least 36 hours after it rains to avoid breaking holds - and for better friction. The routes on the main boulder have been thoroughly climbed and the holds seem fairly solid, but it would probably be wise to avoid any crazy dynos to small holds.There is probably more rock in Wildcat State Park somewhere, but a lot of what I have seen is too sandy and brittle. If you do want to look for new rock, keep in mind that it might not be solid.GPS is fairly accurate but not exact.Here is a video of some of the FAs: youtu.be/Yh5itIuCVgcvq=hd1080-Will M

Description

Routes in Wildcat Mountain