Start with

Knappweed Herbicide

(.10b), & clip the right anchor bolt for protection. Continue in the same pitch over three small roofs to an anchor with chains & carabiners. This climb involves some powerful & continuous climbing. Here's a more detailed description of the moves: undercling the rounded belly of the first roof, & reach a hold above it.  Do a one arm pull to a slot underneath the second roof. Pull up, get your feet on small footholds at the lip of the first roof, & reach over the second roof to crimps. This is the end of the first crux. It helps to be tall on this section. Shorter climbers get shut down.

Now for the second crux- reach the sloping horizontal break below the third roof, & get over the second roof. Reach jugs in a horizontal break just above the third roof. Originally the second crux was harder, but after

Surrounded By Reality

was established, a nice hold out left was exposed that makes a great heel hook for the left foot. Finish up .12a moves to reach a shelf just above the anchor.

Knappweed Herbicide (Part II)

Rain Shadow

The Penguin

Trustafarian Panhandler

The Flying Beast

Surrounded By Reality

Thunderdome

New Test Of Men

Road To Emmaus

Mr. Two-Face

Empire of the Fenceless

The Riddler

Tell-Tale Heart

Furthermore

Chickenshit Armchair Environmentalist

Sad Batman

Willard

The Joker

Barbarians

Dynamic Duel

Pterodactyl Traverse

White Men Can't Jump

Elanor

New Road

Evermore

Catwoman

Dark Knight

Nevermore

Knappweed Herbacide

This route lies just to the left of the arete that separates the north and east faces of the wall. It leads up the overhang to a slabby finish. Like the name implies, it's (P1) a good warm-up for the harder routes on the cliff. It has 4 (5?) bolts and a 2 bolt anchor.

Since most people come to Easter Rock to clip bolts this little gem lies buried in obscurity.

Steep and powerful, with finicky finger locks and bouldery sequences, this left leaning crack packs a lot of challenge and learning opportunity into 45 feet.

So, next time you head up to Easter Rock bring some gear and give Rain Shadow a try.

This is sort of the indirect start to

Catwoman

(or

Catwoman

is the direct start to this...whatever).  Begin to the right of

Catwoman

and left of

Willard

.  Make much-more-difficult-than-they-look moves up and left to a very slopey shelf.  Make a burly stand-up move onto the shelf (crux) and latch the obvious juggy flake.  From here, traverse up and left to the tricky mantle finish of

The Joker

.

This is kind of a one move wonder but with the sustained, slopey, 5.11 climbing below the crux. It is a surprisingly pumpy route.  It is a good climb but not nearly as good as the other classics on this crag.

This route ascends the large (15-20 foot) roof on the east face. This route is part of an old Kyle Copeland aid line called "Cat On A Hot Tin Roof". The aid line ascended what is now "

Surrounded By Reality

" to under the roof then moved left to ascend the roof via a crack. Over the lip, the aid line went left of the free route "Trustafarian Panhandler" up easier, dirtier climbing to a fixed pin, then back right on the sloping ledge.

Tod Anderson placed most of the bolts in 2002. I returned with him in 2003 to put in the starting anchor & the 2nd-4th bolts. In 2016, I replaced the original bolts that had coldshut hangers, with Stainless 1/2" diameter Powers bolts & Fixe hangers.

Trustafarian Panhandler has a separate start & finish from the original aid line. The climb begins on a ledge with a 2 bolt anchor, 35 feet above the approach trail ledge. There are two ways to get here. I prefer climbing the first 3 bolts of "

Surrounded By Reality

" (5.9) to the ledge then move up left to the anchor. It is also possible to climb to the 2nd bolt on "

Chickenshit Armchair Environmentalists

" & traverse right to the anchor. This is easier & dirtier. Beware of a loose block at the start. I have scrambled up this unroped, but I don't advise it.

From the belay ledge, this route provides a good warm-up to the roof. Begin by angling left to 2nd bolt in a tiny roof. At 3rd bolt above the roof, going straight up would be extremely difficult. It is possible to move a few feet left, use a rounded undercling to reach a ledge & hand traverse back right above the tiny roof (.10d). Pull onto the ledge. This section can be entirely avoided to climbing left up "

CAE

" & traversing back right on the ledge (5.2). From the 5th bolt, climb over a small bulge to jugs (.10d). Follow jugs up right to a great rest under the large roof. Follow a horizontal crack along a tiny corner out the roof's first tier to hand jams. Dyno up right to a small edge, & find a jug on a horizontal break. Clip the bolt over the lip. There are two choices at the lip. A: climb directly over the lip via a poor, thin hand jam. This felt quite hard. B: we followed a hand crack under the lip of the roof, left for 6 feet to reach a horizontal crack above the lip. Pull over the roof & traverse back right, past last bolt, to reach a vertical crack slot. Pull onto the low angle slab. The slab feels very insecure at first, but it's not that hard. Run it out up the slab to a ledge & the anchor. I recommend taping your hands for the jams. You'll be glad you did. The redpoint crux is at the last bolt.

This is a great route and certainly one of the best 12ds in the area. Kudos to Mark for bolting it. Climb a slopy steep slab at the far right end of Easter to a big roof with a corner. A hard move gains the corner and another hard move allows an exit over the lip. Look for the hip-scum rest before committing to the last crux.

This route is located on the east face of Easter Rock just left of

Knappweed Herbacide

.  Surrounded By Reality is the first route to pierce the big roof midway up the east face.  Surprisingly, the big roof is not the crux, rather the A-frame below.  The first part of the route is easy and still a bit dirty, but quickly improves as the rock gets steeper.  Lurch up the sloper through the A-frame and get a good rest before the final big roof.  The upper roof is not that bad, maybe 12a, but a bit awkward.  I'm still not sure about the rating on the lower crux, maybe I missed a trick that would make it go easier.  A 60m rope is definitely recommended for this route.  A variation is in the works that will avoid the lower crux, but as of 8/5/02 it is not complete so avoid any tempting looking bolts to the left.

Thunderdome was the first route done on the North Face of Easter Rock, years before this wall became the excellent sport climbing arena it is today.  If you happen to have a rack of gear in your pack, and you're not too pumped from all the excellent sport routes here, this climb will provide some excellent entertainment.  Follow the obvious finger crack right of

Eleanor

.  Slightly stubborn gear, clean rock, and a short, stout crux add up to one of the best hard finger cracks in Boulder Canyon.

This is the second to last route on the far right (uphill) on the N Face.

P1. Climb past a bouldery 5.11 start followed by a juggy 10- corner. 6 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor at a slabby ledge.

P2. Move up left through a bulge and the 11c/d crux, there is a good rest before the remaining 5.11 to the top. 8 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

I managed to lead this as one pitch but had a lot of rope drag at the top. 70m rope required to lower to the ground.

This is the last route at the top of the hill. The second pitch climbs through the attractive, green double roof high on the wall.

P1. Climb over the low roof, 11a/b, and then up the wall above with another 10+ move. 7 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

P2. Move up the right hand line of bolts, above the belay. The first roof is the crux, 11a/b, with a big reach to a jug, get a shake above with more fun moves climbing up and right through a 2nd roof, 10+, finishes with 30 feet of fun, exposed 9+. 8 bolts to the lowering anchor.

This route links the best of

The Riddler

and

The Joker

into one straight-up combination.  Tackle the first two cruxes of

The Joker

, then pull around the arete to the left on crimps (watch your feet!) and head up the corner and finishing headwall of

The Riddler

.  Steep, continuous, varied, tricky, and "easy" by Easter standards - what more could you ask for?  It's a great warm-up for the "real" (i.e. harder) routes.

This incredible route leads up the north face of Easter Rock on the right side of the arete that separates the north and east faces. There isn't a bad move on it, save for the awkward moves on jugs just below the anchors.

The difficulties are sustained throughout the route, though a few moves may be more difficult for shorter people. I'd give this one 5 stars if I could.

Several individuals have nearly hit the deck when falling while clipping the 3rd bolt.  Shorter climbers should consider adding a long draw to protect the moves getting to the 3rd bolt.

The Riddler is the next route to the left of

The Joker

.  Climb up a slab and veer right past a cruxy move followed by hard moves up a steep, left-facing corner to a stance.  The final bulge is steep and enjoyable.  It is worth doing if all the other routes are occupied.  As Fred Knapp states in his best-of guide, this route climbs like an Eldo route except for the seven closely spaced bolts.

This route begins just right of arete, at the obvious crack system. Climb up the fun crack to a nice rest, then continue up and right into the dihedral. The crux of this route involves climbing up into and over the bulge to jugs. There seem to be a couple different ways of approaching this section, so fight off the pump and enjoy yourself on this solid climb.

This is the “

Sad Batman

” linkup into the

Evermore

/

Nevermore

finish.

Start up

Sad Batman’s

compression feature, and cross over into

Elanor’s

ledge. Rest , rest , or don’t , then continue up and left into the

Evermore

sloper finish. It is a fun, pumpy variation with lots of slapping and thuggish movement.

Boulder is full of em'.... Anyway, another Easter Rock left side route, the furthest left route as of 8/20/02.  The big roof is the crux, with a difficult start to the roof.  Once you get past the crux move enjoy the amazing rail, stop do some pull ups, wave to people down below, or whatever.  The pointed hold just before the slot in the crack could break if someone pulled on the tip of it.  I used the scooped area of it as a gaston which made the most sense to me and negates the need to use any glue.  I left two cold shuts below the roof in the confusing web of bolts that allow the first part to be done as a warm up at about 10+ or 11a.  I'll do a little bit more cleaning on the bottom of the route soon.  IMPORTANT - a 60m rope may not reach if you belay on the trail - it's easy to scramble up to the first bolt & belay there if you need to.

If you were an orphan superhero dressed as a bat in a vinyl suit, squeezed up next to a bunch of Edgar Allan Poe references, you’d probably feel sad too.

Sad Batman is a new edition to the Easter Rock area, starting just to the right of

Elanor

. Start up the trad line “

Thunderdome

,” place a piece or two (1” and smaller), and look for a line of 3 new bolts up the short compression feature cutting back left toward “

Elanor

”...clip a bolt on the hanging fridgeblock from the crack, and stand up into slopers and a great right hand underpinch to clip another bolt. Commit to the full squeeze using heel hooks, slopers, and small feet on the face, culminating to a left hand deadpoint to flat sloper just under the next bolt. Reset your feet, and throw to a jug to make the next clip, then finish up on

Elanor’s

pumping finale.

You can also link this into the “

Evermore

and

Nevermore

” sloper finish to create a fun slippery linkup called “

Furthermore

”.

Start just right of the fallen tree. (route to the right of

The Penguin

). Climb into a right-facing dihedral, staying a little left of the 5th bolt. Finish the route with a high hand beside and left of the anchors or traverse right at 6th bolt onto the covered ledge. (5.10'ish) It is a great dihedral with tricky feet and body positions, look for crimp on face by 3rd/4th bolt to get the feet and body up.

This route starts about 10 feet to the left of the leaning tree on the main wall. It follows the slab up to an overhanging dihedral and then to some more straightforward climbing to the anchors.

It sounds strange, but this .12b is actually one of the better warm-ups on Easter Rock.  The route lies just to the left of the arete at the bottom end of the cliff (just around the corner from '

Empire of the Fenceless

').   The climbing is relatively easy (5.10 or so) up to a sit-down rest, and then a 2 move 5.12- crux a little before the anchors.  A fun, solid, well protected route.

Dynamic Duel is a great line unfortunately marred by unnecessary gluing and chipping. Follow the crack system right of

White Men Can't Jump

(I can't either, I haven't done that route yet) to a jug/rail, then do a few hard moves to the lip and a final mantel. Most folks jump from a drilled 2 finger pocket to the lip but enough crimpy edges and sidepulls exist to allow a truly free ascent at 5.13c or d. I'm working on it. Off-route holds include: 1. The big glued and bolted-on flake. 2. The reattached/ glued- on flake next to it. 3. The first drilled out finger jam. 4. The drilled 2 finger pocket. Those are the rules, now get to work!

Climb the traverse line right of

Dynamic Duel

to a tricky crux at the end. The end is getting two hands on the obvious jug. After the first (easy) section of caramelized, rat droppings, this route is really good, like an easy version of

Desdichado

.

This climb follows the obvious traverse line on the left end of the long overhang, left of Flying Beast.

Start at the next route up the hill from '

Willard

', look for the 1st bolt (home made hanger with T-nut, 'gym' style bolt, could be replaced)! Climb up into the right-facing dihedral (great laybacking in this seam, clipping bolts along the way). Once at the 5th bolt, climb onto the covered ledge to the left. From here, make commiting moves (height-dependent) to clip the 6th bolt (bad fall potential possible). From here, back down to the ledge and jump for the lip jug (crux), to the right of the anchors and clip from here, one could also continue past the anchors once hitting the right hand jug. One may also avoid the crux of this route by moving left to the anchors of "

Willard

".

Note: If toproping this route, be sure to clip 3rd/4th bolt for the swing into the tree.

Right of

Tell-Tale Heart

, this varied and excellent route climbs a steep, left-facing corner. Certainly one of the best routes on the crag, it is amazing to find this one undocumented here. Strenuous, but "marred" by an excellent rest above a tricky sequence midway. Milk the rest for all it's worth, because the crux is getting to the anchors.

This route starts from the same anchor as Wagging the Nub on the far right side of Easter Rock (Rolofson, Vol. 2, page 74-75). This is the first anchor after you pass the

Flying Beast

and walk across the exposed traverse - that's why there's an anchor.

Follow the line of bolts up and slightly right. The climbing is mostly pretty moderate with a short crux after you've gone over a roof (11-) and are moving to and from a diagonal crack on a clean little face (12c). It looks like one could traverse in from the left and get to the crack that way, but, for full value, start low with a cross through to a small left hand crimp that you undercling to get to the crack from below - it'll be obvious when you're there.

The crux is clean, fun, and interesting, but the rest of the climb is non-descript.

The 1st pitch of

New Test Of Men

can be linked with the 2nd pitch

Road To Emmaus

, as one pitch. It makes for a pretty fun, long pitch and a good warm up for the crag. A couple of fingery mid-5.11 moves start the route, but then you get plenty of big holds for the rest of the way. The green, double overhang at the top is easy 5.11 and very, very fun. Don't clip the belay bolts as you go by the anchor at the top of the 1st pitch. Take 16 draws. A 60m rope will lower to the ground from the top.

Climb the bottom of

Elanor

up left into two dynamic moves to its own chain anchors.  The second dynamic move is the crux off of right-leaning slopers and tiny crystaline feet to a jug high and left.  This is certainly one of the finer routes around which will shut down many comers due to the very cruxy nature of the climb.  Good luck and have fun.

Climb the thin crack (painful) to better holds on the right. Finsh with a stout mantel onto a sloping shelf and traverse left to finish up the Joker. If the boulder problem goes easily, so will the route.

Another excellent Easter Rock sport route.  A little questionable in my opinion since it crosses the line of the great trad line,

Thunderdome

, just for a link-up, and one of the bolts affects easier climbing on that line.

Begin by clipping the first two bolts of the

Riddler

.  Just below where that route tackles its slabby crux, move left past a bolt (too close to

TDOME

, IMHO) up into the rest stance below the crux bulge of

Thunderdome

.  From here climb up and left on a funky, undercling traverse (crux), which would constitute the only independent climbing on this route, to join with the pumpy finish of

Elanor

.

The climbing is very good.  I give it one star for the issues mentioned above, and the fact one is not likely to repeat it given the quality of the other routes that occupy the same section of rock.

This excellent route delivers the pump, with great moves on solid rock.

"Nevermore" ***(5.13a) is the bolted line just right of the arete "

Empire of the Fenceless

" ***(5.12a).  It shares the crux, and the first 30 feet of "

Tell Tale Heart

" *** (5.12b), but continues right above the roof instead of exiting left.

The initial 20 feet of 5.10 climbing on big holds is a great intro before reaching the roof and a devious 5.12d crux toward the end.

One must power through a variety of interesting moves and holds before reaching the chains.  With slopers, crimps and jugs, ... gastons, drop knees and heel hooks, this climb will keep your head thinking and your forearms pumping.  Once you enter the business district, the clock is ticking as the pump grows.

This route is very well-protected.  However, some of the clips (7 & 8) can be difficult and add to the pump.  To work the crux on toprope without swinging right, bring a directional (0.75-1.25 cam) to stuff in the crack directly above the crux moves.

As another person commented, this route "flows like honey on hot cakes."  Yeah, baby!

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Easter Rock