This is an awesome finger crack up a left leaning open book that is very clean for the meat of the route. It starts via a fifth class scramble up to the crack proper. The bottom and top sections can be technically, a little cruxy. It remains fairly continuous at the grade, but the endurance crux is about 2/3rds of the way up. Can you say finger locks? This stellar route deserves to see a lot more traffic than it does. Go climb it!

Crisis In Utopia

Overloord

Dangle Your Participle

Overripe Fresh-Squeezed California Females

Toprope face (unknown)

Primal Scream

Just Say Yes To Fingercrack

View with a Room

Citizen of Time

Putterman Gully Jump

Overripe Fresh-Squeezed California Crack

Route 8

Overlard (aka Foops)

Overkill

Unknown (offwidth left of Huecos Rancheros)

Vanilla Crack

Route 7

Vasoconstrictor

Sandy Pocket Crack

Lubme

Just Say No To Jugs

Unknown (crack left of Overlord)

Huecos Rancheros

Unknown (crack right of Overlard)

Overlichen

Hammertime

Chocolate Thunder

D'Antonio Approach

Biomechanoid

Another north side sport route. Gets very little traffic.  

  Vertical face with more pockets than it appears. Crux near 3rd bolt using a sequence of 2- and 1-finger pockets.  Slab finish.

Start on the lefthand side of the slab, crank out over the roof which is the crux, then continue up the left arete/face to a shared exit and anchors with Overlard.

A nice sequential black arete with a high first bolt and some balancy, sharp continuous moves. The crux is at the third bolt to easier climbing above.

The crux is off the deck on thin crimps up an overhang to some nice rounded pockets on a vertical face/arete section to a sweet exit. If you step over left at the bottom (crux), the route probably goes at 5.10b.

Toprope the face just around the corner from the Overlook SE side. Pretty fun, but short.

Climb choss to a bouldery start on top of a chossy block tower, as for Overkill, then left after 2nd bolt.  Follow the overhanging prow with small pockets on the left and sidepulls right of the arete, with a reachy crux on a strange highstep to a horizontal crack after the 2nd-to-last bolt providing the crux. 

  This climb is shaded, even in summer evenings.

This climb is yet another nice moderate on the North Side that climbs a vertical finger crack that gets wider and exits left at the top. Harder than it looks.

First bolted route around the corner from the south side. Steep, 25 foot face route. Scramble up easy cracks, then move out left above the big roof and climb up slightly overhanging face above.

Clip the first bolt of Lubeme then trend right into a gully with a lot of thin face moves that are pretty continuous for the grade. This might be considered a sandbag by many, but it is still an OK route. The crux is getting into the gully and then the exit to the anchors.

This is a very enjoyable warm up on the North Side. It starts up a ramp with a hand crack in a left facing dihedral that gets wider as you go and then turns into a finger crack that exits out a steep overhang with excellent foot placements and secure jamming.

A slightly overhung green lichen covered arete. Harder than it looks and very full of lichen.

Cruise up the right side of the obvious slab to a high spacey first clip off of a secure undercling, then pull the roof on large pockets and trend left to surmount the exit moves. The crux is pulling the roof without using the crack to the right, and staying on the face. It shases its last bolt, and anchors with Overloord. A fun and lively warm up. It gets morning shade and afternoon sun.

Scramble up some choss, then a steep face route with a crux moving past the 2nd bolt as you make moves off of a blocky tower and into the shallow dihedral above.  Step right and climb the fun pocketed face. 

  This climb is shaded until late evening.

The offwidth crack just left of Huecos Rancheros might interest people looking to climb wide cracks-- it's one of the few in White Rock that stays wide for a decent length.  Crux down low, wider up high.This is "10. Unknown" in Jemez Rock.

This is an excellent less traveled wide crack that offers some good basalt climbing in a slightly overhanging hands to wide hands crack in left facing open book. Tricky opening moves to sustained climbing above the crux with a good rest or two.

This route stars up a moderate and featured ramp to the first clip, then desperately crank up painful crimps and shallow pockets up an overhanging wall past two more bolts. Continue to the exit mantle up onto the top shelf.

Face climb on small pockets and edges. One of the harder ticks at the Overlook, IMO.

The crux is through the middle section of this otherwise nice handcrack in a deep dihedral. It is a little dirty and loose at the top. Continue to the Dangle Your Participle anchors. This is a good warm up if you brought the rack.

Clip the first two bolts of Putterman Gully Jump, then head up and leftwards.

An overhanging wall with monster pockets and some stellar climbing. The opening moves are a little tricky so don't blow the first clip as it is a horrible landing. Get the first bolt and let the fun pocket pumping begin, and then continue to the thin and tricky exit up onto a shelf. The crux is at the last bolt.

A broad crack in the back of a dihedral. Not remarkable, but one of the easiest lines at the Overlook; a good beginner lead and would be a good one to set a toprope for beginners.   Listed as #3 in Beverly (2006:156).  Wa3lt's annotated ?? shows only the very top of this crack (straight up from "2").

Crank some entertaining moves past some large rounded jugs up a short overhanging wall. Harder than it looks, but its over quick. The crux is between bolts 2 and 4. Retro bolted by one of the FAs in 1998 because of many near grounders that occurred.

A broad crack, with a wide flared section about 25 feet up (no offwidthing required, though). 

  Listed as #6 in Beverly (2006:156). Wa3lt's annotated ?? shows this as a line to the right of "3".

Just around the corner from a greenish/licheny face is a slightly overhung route with huge holds. Begins from a large ledge.

A steep face climb on (you guessed it) pockets.

Climb a dirty (not enough traffic) arete on small pockets.

A contrived boulder problem (don't touch the crack!) leads to easier and funner 5.10 face climbing.

This often overlooked and unknown arete is perhaps the best route at Overlook, and it never sees traffic. Start on chossy slab to the first bolt of Lubeme then continue straight up the overhanging arete and crank like there is no tomorrow up some technical arete moves until you reach the anchors. This route has the feel of the aretes at Below The Old New Place, so it is a little out of character for the north side. Continuous at the grade.

The often shady and cooler area at The Overlook.  One can escape the summer's heat and enjoy numerous bolted sport routes.   

  This side of the Overlook isn't as popular as the east side because it's shorter and it can be difficult to reach the anchors from the top to set top ropes on some of the climbs.  The bolted routes are high quality, as is the crack climb Crisis in Utopia, so a visit to the North Side of the Overlook is definitely worthwhile, but the first time visitor to the Overlook should stay probably on the Main Wall.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in North/West side