This route is about in the middle of the slab just right of

Mr. Cornflakes

. At the base of the route is a large block (about 2.5 feet tall). You can use this to distinguish it from the many other bolted routes on the slab.

The crux comes in the middle of the route where you clip a bolt from an easy stance and then try to move up with little to no hands.

The Mantel Route

Red Slab

Playground

Desperado

Mr. Cornflakes

Pregnant Guppy

Impossible Dream

Magical Mystery

Red Dwarf

Red Red Whine

Leave It To Beaver

Quite possibly the best line on

Red Slab

, this route is an exciting lead with good, solid holds the whole way, and requires a bit of thought here and there to figure out a way past a seeming blank spot.

After mildly tricky start with some small crimps or a finger jam, you quickly pass the first bolt and reach a huge jug and breathe a sigh of relief. Continue straight up through three more bolts on small to mid-sized edges, then start trending to the right.

After clipping the penultimate bolt, take a second and wonder how you're going to surmount the blank rock before you. After figuring it out, reach nice, large positive edges and cruise to the top.

This was one of the first routes in Rock Canyon. Red Slab travels up beautiful rock with easy but airy moves, making it one of the most popular routes in the canyon.As you climb up to the Red Slab crag from the main Rock Canyon trail the Red Slab route is the second line of bolts that you come to once you have reached the main slab of red rock.As should be the case with all top rope anchors PLEASE do not top rope off from the chains. Do the right thing and put a couple of draws on the links when setting up your top rope. A couple of long draws go a long way in helping reduce rope drag. Constant wear from belaying directly off of chains creates an unsafe and expensive situation. Show respect for the person who donated the money to put the chains in, and always top rope from draws instead.

A 5-bolt, easy route worth doing only if you've done everything else on the

Red Slab

and/or feel like getting away from the crowd.

Easy climbing on mossy, rough quartzite. The rock does have some interesting-looking pockets down low that you don't see elsewhere in the

Rock Canyon

quartzite.

Your rope may end up with a green tinge from dragging through the dry moss.

Rappel rather than lower due to the anchor.

The most difficult line up

Red Slab

, this fun route starts thin and ends thin. In between, there is an easy roof and somewhat-more-difficult roof.

Start directly under the first bolt (which is intimidating, but worth it). As you continue up the holds get bigger and you start breathing more easily.

Just before the roof is another thin section: staying to the right of the bolts is easier, but staying directly in the bolt line or a little left is thinner, slightly harder, and quite fun.

The well-protected roof itself is kind of tricky, but a willingness to commit on small holds will see it through.

Climb the crack just left of

Impossible Dream

.  Pull the small roof to the right.  Chain anchors on top.  This is a great little trad climb on a mainly sport wall.

Easy climbing until the roof. Great slab climb down low and then the crack up top. Small fingers are a plus.  The line starts out the same as

Pregnant Guppy

, then move to the right over the roof. From there follow the small crack to the chains.

The crux is getting off the ground at the start of Mantle. At the 2nd bolt, move left, clipping the 3rd bolt of Mr Cornflakes and Desperado. Climb up and left to clip the 4th, then 5th bolt on Red Slab. Unclip or extend the 4th bolt draw before walking leftwards to the chains of Red Red Whine. Or climb Red slab to its chains. It is nice in that it is possibly 2 grades easier than Red Slab, Taking the line of least resistance through the red area of the slab. Rope drag is manageable with a little care.

Slab climbing with a few thin sections where good balance and steady feet are needed.

The first bolt is a good way up there (however, the climbing to the first bolt is easier than the rest of the climb). The rest of the protection is good.

Note that this route is not the same as

Leave It To Beaver

, which wanders farther right before coming back left again.

This route is at the right side of the bolted routes on the

Red Slab

. It has the highest first bolt of any of the

Red Slab

sport routes so it is fairly obvious where it starts.

Red Red Whine

is the left-most bolted route on the

Red Slab

. The enjoyable crux is turning the small roof and is what makes the climb. The crux requires balance (or long arms and legs). The rest of the route is slab climbing on positive edges.

Note that this route isn't

Impossible Dream

(5.10d), which isn't bolted and is a few feet left of

Red Red Whine

. I think the confusion arises because the Ruckman guide topo for the

Red Slab

shows

Impossible Dream

and the topo location for

Impossible Dream

looks just like

Red Red Whine

.

Easy climbing to the first bolt.  The crux is in the middle section, just after the fixed protection lets up.  This route is mostly 5.6 with an occasional 5.7 and 5.8 move.  Good for learning to set trad, as the climbing above the fixed protection is the most difficult.

Description

Protection

Routes in Red Slab