This was a hard one to set.  Now that it is done, we think you will like it.  The rock was challenging for establishing bolts.  So the second bolt is a bit high.  This was the best placement, and stance, and crux.  Do not thrash here,  Back step and find the beta intensive easy clip.  But make the dam clip or deck.  If you do not see the easy stemming sequence, you could get some small cams in the corner to cover the move,  You would have to pull them after setting the draw. Next is a swing around the arete off a jug and into a right foot hole on the polished face. Otherwise, your movement is normal as you walk the ramp to the second crux just below the chains.  Great rock and face climbing here.  Fun steep moves.

Under the Radar

Stall & Fall

Vertigo

Whats the Vector, Victor?

Don't Call Me Shirley

Picked the Wrong Week

Flight School

Instruction Manual

Small Bag of Salty Peanuts

Propeller Blades

Checking For Structural Integrity

Duty Free Zone

Taildragger

Turbulence

Ground Control To Climber Tom

Hangar Shadow

Crash Landing

Tarmac Debris

Student Pilot

Deicing

Mayday On Monday

I Speak Jive

Wing Commander

Overhanging Cockpit

Insufficient Landing Strip

Mind the Gap

Approach Protocol

The rap in is way better than the talus crux approach.  This is my new favorite line at this grade in the J.  Too bad it could not be longer!

Scramble up the easy wide crack to the ledge. Up the crack (#3 & #2 Camalots) until you can move left and follow bolts up the face and arete to anchor. Superb moves on great rock.

Hard moves of the ground leads to nice climbing.

Pull through the steep buldge to the ledge. Up the corner to anchor on right.

Little crumbly at start but gets better.

Good movement with thoughtful cruxes.  Would get more stars if there was not a bit of choss half way through.

An alternative to the bolted

Instruction Manual

to its right, Flight School follows a short section of thin crack to a ledge where it joins with its neighbor, surmounting a large block and finishing in a dihedral.

The climbing is moderate, the stances are good, and the gear is solid. A bit of lichen adds some slickness but overall it makes a good beginner line, nothing too remarkable but that thin crack was too obvious to ignore. If you're in the area with trad gear you might as well put it to good use...

Short but good movement for the grade.  Fun line.  Can also serve as the rap-in to the area as well as the exit.  Better than the talus approach.

Another fine line in the cluster around "The Hangar".  Good rock and well scrubbed as well as crow bared..  No, that bock is/was solid.  Great movement and very thoughtful..

Short and bouldery, this line is a slightly more powerful and less technical version of the delicate

Mayday on Monday

to its right.

Start with a seam lieback past a bolt to reach good horizontals rails and setup for a big reach/throw into a sharp corner crack (the first blade of the propeller). Gingerly lieback this short section, taking care not to pull straight out on the large blocks which form the corner (they sound hollow but feel solid). Figure out which feet you can use (hint: none) to throw to another sharp corner, mash your sad fingers in the sharp licheny crack (the second blade of the propeller), and mantle on the ledge from which you can reach the anchors.

A slightly over hanging edgy romp where picking the cleaned and scrubbed holds when pumped and desperate is important.  Fun!

Straight forward crack climbing that includes abundant  face edges for those that hate twisting feet.  Fun romp up.  There are many good gear locations in addition to a small horizontal on the face that takes a micro cam well.

A shady line in a protected slot, this crack climbs well and takes gear easily.

Nice clean crack. Burly from the first to the second roof. Have a rest, then crank to the belay.

Good movement and easy gear placement make this the best of the three lines.  The crux is having enough big gear.

This line is possibly on the best best rock yet found in the Jungle.  The tuff feels like Tuolumme Granite and would have four stars if it were only longer.  When warm temps are baking the Air Strip, this line will most certainly be cool and shady.  It lies in a two meter wide slot and faces east.  Getting into this slot between the hangars might be the crux of the entire adventure, however, there are many excellent new routes very nearby making the talus navigation well worth the effort.

The Hangar Shadow line starts on the right of the wall and moves left to center before then moving back right up above.

Like most chimneys, this one will also give you pause when leading.  In addition to it's dynamic start, for the most part, the rock is good if you stay on line. This also will help you in locating the gear placements.

Easy roof turning onto big edges outside the crack all the way up.  Takes gear well but the face edges are a bit crispy.  This took a bit of cleaning.  You can see the "debris" on the deck.  Well worth a run up and then use the common anchor for a practice flight on the line to the right.

Easy climbing and in the shade most of the day.  The crux is finding the line though it is only 20 min.s from car to crack.

Unless you rap in, the crux is the talus approach.  Great rock and movement on a mix of face, crack, and chimney.  Thoughtful climbing.

On good rock and well bolted.  Very thoughtful through all the big throws.  The first throw is a must to clip the third bolt.  A must do in the area!

Reachy moves in a sharp crack that takes all the gear you want to place.  As the crack drifts right at the top exit on to the face passing one bolt to chains.

Pull some hard moves to the ledge. Stay on the left side of the arete for a few moves until you can swing back on to the arete on the right. Nice climbing, would be worthy of an extra star if it stayed off the ledge.

Fun route.

Rap in or deal with the cruxy talus.  Otherwise, this rather tame OW crack goes easy with face edges.  Short but fun.

This seldom warm or sunshine lit crack is a respite in the heat of summer.  Worth the trip in and you get some face, mostly hands jamming and a chimney at the top, all easily protected,

A bouldery start leads to nice face climbing.

The line starts on the west face then crosses the arete onto the north face where rests are more frequent.  But, as you near the chains, it becomes over hung and the NE arete left hand lieback gives you some flight schooling.  The first bolt also serves as the anchor for the bottom of the fixed line approach to the tower.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Air Strip