Fun moves on good holds with good protection. A decent first lead at Wild Iris

Good Hearted Woman

You Picked A Fine Climb To Lead Me, Lucille

Pistol Pete

Wild Horses Couldn't Drag Me Away

Ryobi Rustler

Ryobi Ranger

Dynamitic

Ryobi Jr.

Ryobi Wrangler

T & T

Pistols & Gri Gris

Latex Cowboy

Indian Country

Sacajawea

Big country

War Paint

A recurrent theme on the right side of the 5.10 wall seems to be technical starts to a long move, then easier climbing to the anchors.  Latex Cowboy is no different, although it seemed more sustained than Wild Horses.  Crux between the first and second bolt, watch for a loose hold right off the ground.

Like many of the routes on this end of the wall, A Fine Climb... begins with relatively difficult moves, then eases considerably.  Begin up a black & white speckled streak between two patches of cream colored rock.  A few longinsh cranks between positeve pockets lead to broken ledges and large jugs.

This isn't the wolrd's best warmup, but its probably one of the better options for this wall.

Pistol Pete is similar in character to the other routes to the right of Stone Henge, in that it features a brutally hard start (for the grade) to easier pocket hauling above.  The crux is getting to the first bolt, so a stick clip is highly recommended.  There are a few decptive pockets near the first bolt, but these are not as good as they look from the ground.

Thin slopey pockets with poor, glassy edges for the feet lead up past the first bolt, where some sinker pockets are eventually reached.  Relatively trivial pulls lead on to the top.

A one move wonder, with the crux hitting you between the first and second bolt.  Might be worthwhile to stick clip the first bolt.  Very sequency between good pockets, then turning into a jughaul for the rest of the route.

A bit hard for the 10d grade - could legitimately be called 11a, I suspect.  At any rate, this route starts off with some bouldery moves down low on sharp holds.   Gets easier after about 10 feet or so.  Interesting climbing and tricky movement.

Quality climbing on pockets, no sharpness - nice moves and reachy in spots.     Would get a full 4 stars if only it were about twice as long.

Have you ever done a 5.6 sport route that didn't suck?  Here is one that is actually worth doing.   It is actually fairly steep, just about vertical, and the climbing is engaging.

The climb is on big pockets in a corner so stemming and jugs make it very easy.  But it still feels like climbing.   Great lead for a beginner.

Ryobi Jr is the most neglected route on the Five Ten Wall, but its a lot of fun and a makes for a great moderate warm up. This is also a nice introductory route for first-time visitors to The Wild Iris, as it climbs almost entirely on large holds with no tweaky pockets.

From the ledge, climb the nice white panel between two parallel vertical cracks. At mid-height the angle eases & more pockets appear. Follow nice jugs to the anchor.

Another bouldery short route that climbs over a bulge.   Tricky and worthwhile, probably more funand less sharp than its 10d neighbor to the left.

Perhaps the best line on the Five Ten Wall, T&T offers continuous difficulty on a beautiful cream-colored wall.  Sequential reaches on excellent pockets lead to a shallow scoop at a set of jugs.  More great pockets lead to the top.

This line is pumpy & sustained and makes an excellent warmup.

The Main Wall at The Wild Iris is somewhat lacking in quality 5.11- lines, but this one is worth doing, makes for an interesting outing, and doesn't have any dynos from monos (like

Osita

!).  P&GG is also much more continuous & enganging than its neighbor to the right.

A few thin slab moves lead to a juggy sidepull flake well left of the bolt line.  Make an ascending right-ward traverse to the arching bulge.  Long reaches between great pockets lead over the bulge to the light gray headwall.  Head up & slightly right with a few more sequential cranks between smaller pockets.  Eventually the holds get much bigger as easier moves lead to the anchor.

Another very nice route that has great stone and fun climbing.   Thankfully, they also dropped the irritating "Ryobi..." naming convention on this and gave it a real name that you could actually remember if you wanted to.

Either start from the ground (very difficult) or stem off the wall behind you. Getting past the first bolt is the crux. There are a handful of crimpy moves to the third bolt.  [Note:  original description mentioned ground fall -- either bolt(s) have been added or there was a mistake--there is no runnout, based on my doing the route a few days ago]

Climb up the slightly overhanging bulge to good edges and pockets. Pull hard into a good stance and finish at the top of the cliff.

War Paint is worth doing if you're in the area and are in search of a bouldery challenge, but the difficulties are quite short & intense, so this is probably not the best warm up.  This line and its neighbor are both quite photogenic, especially in the fall.

Begin under the right end of the arch.  Easy moves lead up to a stance below the bulge.  Bust right over the bulge with nice incut pockets and an undercling or two.  Once established ont he slab, easier moves lead up to the anchor.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in E. Five Ten Wall