I am in the process of establishing extreme routes, although I probably won't be able to lead or follow the climbs freely. This is the first one that is nearest to completion.   Climb the inclining wall past three bolts for the crux. Each bolt passed has a unique approach to it. 20ft of barn door stemming, undercling moves and a long reach from a lay back to spread yourself out thin will get you through it. Here's a hint 'tip toe through the tulips'. Exhausting with high exposure. I didn't get to try it. This climb does not have rappel anchors yet. For now we used a higher up off of the cliff oak tree. We couldn't hear each other over the traffic sounds from Rt.25. That's why I didn't get to try it. In the meantime it would be convenient to have cell phone communication.  After the crux the climb drops off to (5.5) rating finishing past two more bolts to a moss grassy and rock run out to the oak tree. Climb was a hung dog or Taylor did do the first free ascent of it, after peal offs and time to retry, Taylor clipped each bolt without tension.  Hasn't had an official FFA ascent yet.

So Alone

White Rabbit

Guillotine

Bad Sneakers

Chesire Cat

Fixing a hole

Beat the Heat

Wendall's Dike

Wrong Turn

White Tuxedo

Senior Citizen Route

Magnum Opus

Rocket Science

Crux is getting on the climb. After that the climb goes up on big foot holds and small hand holds through the center of the wall (5.4-5) until you can move up and right onto some dirt steps for 15ft., with an occasional rock smear between the grasses (there is a loose toaster size rock that hasn't been removed yet here) until the belay bolts are reached. Look for the pin eyes along the way. One pin is in questionable rock. Climb is a little bit lichen covered but this doesn't detract from the climb. Eventually I would like to change the finish of the climb to being entirely on rock (moving left instead of right) but there appears to be a large loose rock preventing safe completion of it this way.

This route is an old fashion Rattlesnake Snake classic. Climb the rock out crop to belay at the large pine tree 40 ft. or take 'Beat the Heat' to the pine tree. Take dike groove until up left is a steep wall. Climb the wall crux and traverse right. DO NOT go up to the ledge above with stacked blocks. Going Right ends with a Step off to slope to bulge to the chimney of the dike. Exit dike after 10 ft crux to go out of its on left side. A steep bulge to ledge above is exposed face until the quartz finger pockets (crux). Belay above right off oak tree and its a long pitch. Final pitch is optional. It goes up left to the pine tree up to chocks stones to the lichen covered wall. A hand and foot rock cams into the very exposed wall. Its a very important rock for the 5.3 crux. Wall ends at large pine tree or higher up at the birch tree. Getting down shouldn't be by rappelling this route. Bushwhacking up to the Crows Nest trail is okay or down climb the rope ladder to 'Giant Man' start is dangerously here by the ratty rope. Its not easy to rappel it.

Beginning is not bolted and has been top roped. its short distance of under cling and face lay backs and mostly 8++). For now Magnum Opus to belay at the trees is open. From belay move up and left over outside corner via large expanding flake or side walk up lower to the smooth lichen face. The crux face moves ahead are two clips made to far away to be user friendly. Scary foot surface for overextending my body length. Glad I got up to the clip crux by stemming up friction with an under cling feature in the scallop lichen wall. Better to clip than fall and C0 held sling to clip. Easier provocative moves to another clip reach it clip. Climb settles down on the large covered in scallop lichen outside edge with rest stance. Its easier 5.6 up lichen covered rock bulges to the selected rappel perch 15 feet down from the top walk off. Last 15 feet to top is crawling between trees on dirty rock.        Put it on my highest approval list and needs some friction cleaned. Power scrubbed it would be a two star route and possibly more because of its ambiance.   One of my greatest bombs ever. We did our best to make it a nice bomb but bomb potential remains on first pitch near belay. Oh well the biggest bomb must remain alpine in nature. Challenging being not user friendly. My best climbing comes out on these worse surface types. Mind F)7/ work out doing the processing quick on how to stay up while making progress on this one almost slipped away on me. Invigorating.       Leave every rock in place, please, maintain environment below and at the guillotine rock because no erosion keeps all rocks in place. Cleaning out the rocks below the trees holding the half tonne guillotine slab rock it will become loosened. Its probable the guillotine rock will rock slide down Hinterland's Trail or while on this climb. Everything is okay presently. It's all got to change someday from freeze thaw action. The guillotine rock got hung up on some trees when it slid off the cliff a while back. The balancing act of rock and tree determinism to live keeps the rock safer. The tree should live many more years. You'll see what I mean by its fine and there is bolt above the guillotine rock now.   ROCK!

It's a very dirty and interesting climb. Soloed it in hiking sneakers. Scenic and okay for what it is. Climb the quartz extrusion up to the Cedar tree. Get past the tree and move towards slab. Get onto slab's top section. Serious. Exit was thankfully, reasonable. If your not accustomed to this kind of climbing don't learn on this one. Upper protection is dependent on whether or not a block is wedged to the wall or not. Works fine as a hand, foot hold.

I led 'Beat the Heat' to the large pine higher up and left of the route, entered Wedell's Dike, continued up the dike until able to traverse left up between wall and Pine tree because of fractured blocks in the area to belay at large Oak tree below small headwall (130ft). From this belay spot Ryan led up Quartz ridge left of this Oak tree (Crux) is at the start of this lead. After getting on the ridge follow it up and traverse right to enter the same face as 'White Rabbit'. Finish up 'White Rabbit' and belay right at Oak tree. Exit up dirt gully. To add one more bolt to would make the climb (PG). The climbing is (5.4) after the first bolt but after the second bolt the bolts are to far apart and a fall here will have the leader deck at the Oak tree. The climb is a bit lichen covered at the beginning and higher up the climb is clean. Nice view and exposure. Tropical storm 'Irene' has dislodged three stacked 10lb plus rocks left of this dike 100ft up from Hinderland's trail. Unable to set them back to stability and there perched precariously! These blocks are left and not on the route.

From tree ledge move right and up past block to get to next ledge right. Climb the flaring corner into the large ceiling. Under the ceiling (wedged red rock should be left for ambiance) there is a move right via the slab to return up the flaring corner. Step right at the top of the corner onto dirt below quartz extrusion. there are two  loose rocks in the dirt (they'll be relocated on my next trip up it). This is a good belay spot. Higher from here I encountered tremendous rope drag. Climb up the quartz block (covered in pine needles) past a small pine tree. Forced Belay at the larger pine tree up from it. Climb the dirt ramp right with trees up right to clean easy but (5.5) at the start (20ft) no pro quartz wall. Top of wall has some hollow quartz spots that would make for some hopeful pro. Is it really worth the trouble? Tip toe through the quartz and belay close to the Crow's Nest trail.    This climb personally is a newest favorite because of it's similarity to 'Hole in the wall'. The final wall pictured here as been climbed longer than 30 years ago. After more ascents the rating of the lower corner may change. 'Hole in the wall' hasn't become an often climbed route.

The chimney dike that is unseen from the trail. Climb up the rock outcrop up to the pine tree and belay. Enter the groovy dike and the there is a grassy section before the chimney. The chimney crux has some fractured rock on the right side and its no problem. Above chimney is dirt and trees gully. The dike steeply goes up left and right up is easier went.The route is old and likely was sent when Wendell's climbed at Rattlesnake Crags. Trees make this climb totally doable for protection and it will be run out on Wendall's Dike. Its bolted now... except for above the chimney.

I've been looking at this lonely crack for years and just hadn't gotten around to it. It's on the trail pretty much between Triple Corners and Hinterlands. 

  Its short but sweet, Just don't blow the last move cause it could get sour really quick. 

  Climb up in to the perfect finger crack which turns to stacks and then heads left with funky jams and slick feet. Eventually you hit good hand jams and a stance to catch your breath. Place good gear as high as you can and exit the crack to the face above. Don't fall as you get out from that last piece. The Mantel at the top hosts perfect jugs so if you hit those you are in the clear.

Taylor soloed up between 'Bad Sneakers' and 'So Alone'. The  climb needs a bolt to protect the traverse into the inside grooved corner with blocks. A climber can also access the top of 'So Alone' from here.

Climb was done to access ledge. Rating probably inaccurate, it could be easier. Had loose rock issues. There is less looseness issues now. Could turn out to be a nice climb. It's clean rock for the most part and has a deep dike fissured environment. The climb ascends the center and left wall of a large dike. The second pitch pro is trees and of little value because they're available after a long run out up the dike. After the trees escape left on the slab under a short head wall to reach a large pine. Ascend past rock garden to the narrow oak tree ledge. Still loose rock around especially on the right. The crux is most likely near a pin on the first pitch v groove corner.

Climb was nearly an epic because rocks that looked solid and part of the cliff (at the beginning) were loose. I had to drop a Basket ball size rock onto my chest. The ladder got knocked down. I had no injury and after setting up the pro I was exhausted not doing the (5.10) crux. I resigned the lead over to Ryan and he got through the crux second try. I aided the crux eventually after trying another way far right of the crux. I am sure I can get up it way over right. After the crux there is a corner with tree to another corner with a beautiful crack (5.7) and then a midway belay on smaller trees and trad. gear. Magnum Opus will go direct from the belay. There are two other options to summit. Everything is very lichen covered. I went left and had to leave because it was getting dark. Top rope bolting will be done instead to finish the variation on the left side. This will be the 'Deus Ex Machina'. Loose rock could be in the finish to Magnum Opus.

Climb up wall next to and past the large stacked fins (dangerous) in corner. Continue up wall to anchors.

It's weird that at Rumney there is a crag that hasn't seen much traffic, and it is 150+ in height without the lower ledges of broken rock grooves to trees and dangerous steep dirt slopes included.    The middle of the crag is high mica content and some dangerous finned rock protrusions similar to the Hinderland's crag's content. These mica rock fins were  once in middle of the route 'Jolt'. The dangerous fins were taken out and dropped below.    The upper part of Wonderland is lichen covered with better or usual Rattlesnake rock quality directly up and west. There is a long white Quartz extrusion here on the east side. East to this Quartz extrusion is a 40ft high dike. The opposite wall of the dike is a very steep bulging lichen free section 50ft high. The dike and this wall begin below at a protrusion of rock with pine trees above that. The big fire lit the crag's upper east side a little. Couldn't see any of the western upper side of this crag.    Not a place for everyone or for that matter anyone yet unless you are experienced in this kind of climbing at Rattlesnake. It's Wonderland it's an adventure. The hiking trail is directly below this crag. I listed it as Alpine because of the lichen covered sections, the soft mica quality rock in some places and the inability to loose control of any loose rocks.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Wonderland