Starts up an easy slab to some harder than it looks moves, clip a double long draw, then stand up and clip another off of a left hand side pull and then climb back down into the pod and rest up. Moving back out of the pod make a big right hand move followed by a heel-hand match to an undercling, from here you gain a big jug hueco and clip another short draw. Rest here again, the crux cometh: large dyno to a left hand pocket followed by a handful of moderately hard moves gains the finish jug of the crux. stem up inside and head right along a sloping arete to clip the shared anchors for Speaking in Tongues. If you head straight up after the crux you're on Golden.

Spaceshuttle to Kolob

Natural Born Drillers

Pagan Rituals

Golden Direct

Worshipping The Limestone Gods

Freebird

Holy Shit

Irrational Exuberance

Spring Loaded

Solid Gold

The Epiphany

Golden

Raising Cain

Sacrilege

Speaking In Tongues

Joe Kinder's Direct start to Golden starts on The Epiphany (5.11d), then moves into Golden above and to the right of the anchors. This eliminates the pod rest and adds some hard moves in the territory between the two routes.

This is the first route at the Cathedral and one of the longest - it takes a traversing line linking great natural features before busting straight up to the rim for the final few clips.  Several cruxes and good rests comprise this wonderful pump-fest.

Begin as for

Speaking in Tongues

(by far a more popular route - though it shouldn't be) on the right side of the cave.  A difficult undercling move that isn't so bad if you can stay glued to the glassy feet leads to better holds.  There's a shallow no-hands knee bar before the route moves right where

Tongues

moves left.  Here you must pass two very poorly placed bolts - they are too low and too far to the right of the climbing, making the clips difficult and the climbing unsettling.  In any case, move right to a huge hueco, then right again to a smaller, but perhaps better one that is home to an abandoned peregrine nest.  Hope that there is a long sling on the next bolt as you move up on some cobbles in a shallow depression on the wall.  A few more moves up and right around an arete-like feature lead to a great stance and opportunity for complete recovery.  Easy stemming up a corner culminates in a big move to a good hole, and another rest before the final run to the chains:  This section is steep and uncharacteristically crimpy, but it also has the nicest rock.  The anchor is tough to clip.

Use a 70m cord and when you lower redirect through a midway chain anchor to land on the starting platform. With a shorter rope you'll need to lower twice using the aforementioned anchor.

Every type of limestone move, pockets, crimps, jugs, a lieback sequence, and even a tufa pinch with bat guano. The crux is either between the 3rd and 4th bolt or at the top depending on how well you can lieback.

A fun and unique climb for the grade. Two tough moves keep you motivated for the huge rest in the top pod. Tricky move out to the chains. Overall a stellar warm up for those cold winter days.

Classic.

Lovely 5.11+ to a no hands kneebar, then a v7ish shoulder press boulder problem, endng on the upper section of Natural Born Drillers.

to the right of raising cain. not that great.

Difficult moves to gain a shallow dihedral.  Sharp holds to slab.  The crux is right off the ground.  The rock is not on par with the other routes at the Cathedral.

An extension of Raising Cain, Spring Loaded tackles the tough and wicked roof straight off the Raising Cain anchor. A hard 12 in itself, linked from the ground this makes a nice and thuggy .13 - Pull hard on the pockets and thin edges, underclings and a few tough pinches. Get psyched, the business starts early.

The most direct line up the cave, Dan Mirsky found a bolt that Joe Kinder had placed in between Golden and Golden Direct, and spent 5 months battling conditions to send the hardest route at Cathedral.

Up blunt arete to hueco, then hard pockets to anchor.

The original Golden is an extension of Space Shuttle to Kolob, moving out and left from the pod where Space Shuttle finishes and continuing up for 70' more of solid climbing. Todd Perkins, responsible for much of the route development at Welcome Springs, left this as an open project which Chris Sharma first completed.

A short, but sweet route using decent edges and pockets. Begin on a vertical face and head up to the roof, plenty of powerful moves on this line, Move fast!

Start on Pagan Rituals and break right after the first few bolts.  Pull through some thinner moves to a tough bulge and even tougher clip of the chains.

I had heard rumors about this climb for quite a while. As it turns out the legends are true. Limestone fit for the Gods!

Although many of the holds are slick from traffic, this route is truly a 5-star sloper workout.

Move on easy holds to the large hueco half-way up. Try to rest without slipping out. Make a large move and work through the crux finding knee-bars wherever you can. Rest in the large undercling and then prepare for a tough final move to clip the chains. Old stiff perma-draws make every clip a rush!

Description

Protection

Routes in The Cathedral