This is a slightly inviting chimney to those of us iguanadon types. Oddly, it climbs somewhat like a desert route. Now perhaps the most interesting part is that you could lead this with a #1 Camalot rack and smaller.

Ascend the wide crack/chimney to the left of

Good Ju-Ju

on easier-than-it-looks climbing. On my first lead of it, I brought up some Craig Luebben's thesis Bigbros thinking I'd need them. Fiddling with a so-so #3 and clipping it, I found a blind #1 Camalot placement at that level further in. You can offwidth chimney (as I did the first go) or face climb a bit on the outside. Left side in or right side in works a bit higher. Gain the ledge. Now, you can do

Good Ju-Ju's

finish to the right or finish with a minor between the ears crux to the left. There's a blue Alien, #0 TCU spot reachable from the ledge. A wee nip of courage will get you up to the top. For what it's worth, on first lead, I got on top, placed a #0.75 Camalot, and downscrambled to

Good Ju-Ju's

anchor, but the crack for the #0.75 isn't supported, so I unclipped it leaving the directional above the top of the left crux as the directional for seconds.

Bottoms Up

Herringbone Direct

Sea Urchin

Tiger's Woody

Isle of Mouse

Hairless Dog

Tiger Shark

High Tide

Good Ju-Ju

S.S. Minnow

The Goonch

Deepwater Horizon

Curious George

Jaws Part 2 (Shark Bait)

Hammerhead

Harambe Lives

Flying Fish

Battle of the Bulbus

Wooly Woody

Sand Dollar

Chum

Nurse Shark

Wooly Bully

Land Shark

Defective Agency

Pinkerton

Asbury Park

Old Man And The Sea Direct

Play With Your Balls

Hellhound (originally submitted as Viagra Crack)

Crack

Sea Robin

Old Man and the Sea

Emilia's Corner

Jaws

Bertha

Pretzel Logic

Sand Shark

Pinnacle 2

Side of Mouse

Harambe's Mombé

Deer Foot Chimney

Gargoyle Ju-Ju

Great Wide Shark

Bluesfish

Herringbone

Natural Born Topropers

Tendonkey Punch

Holy Mackerel

Weakfish

Pigeon of the Sea

Crack Au Lait

Hidden Slab

Slap Happy

Prow

Narrow Face

This ascends a varied crack. The start is wide for slender handed folks. There are a few shifting flakes, so test your holds carefully. We didn't have a hammer today to knock out all the loose ones. Near the top, the face holds out right were more inviting than the offwidth flare. There is no fixed anchor as of now.

To descend, we went up and right. We placed a #0.75 Camalot and walked down to the

Good JuJu

anchors to rappel off.

This has tricky moves about a 3rd of the way up...it is short but really fierce and sort of bouldery (reachy)...the gear is poor and only body weight friendly, but the climbing is super fun. It was originally led ground up aid, mixed-free (5.10, A3+).

This was first led ground up aid/free. There are a few tricky moves in the beginning, middle, and end. There is no bolt anchor at the top, but a gear anchor can be constructed. It is a natural, thin-crack system with some tricky protection.

Start by climbing a wide crack up the left side of 15 foot pillar. Move left past 2nd bolt and up the face to a shallow, horizontal break & 3rd bolt. The crux traverses right onto the blunt arete via sidepulls & poor footholds. Continue up the left side of the arete with another 5.12 crux.  Move left at 5th bolt under a small bulge to a sharp arete. A final 5.12 section leads up this arete to jugs above the last bolt.  Traverse right and reach down to the anchor.

I bolted this route in January 2010 and had climbed it (A0) hanging on thre 3rd bolt 5 times prior to the successful redpoint ascent. The crux is very difficult, and there was one move I could barely do. Finally I tried a different smear for my left foot and a tiny piece of rock broke off leaving a small edge.  This foothold made all the difference. This climb took me a lot of effort. I believe it is one of the two hardest climbs on North Table Mountain. I would like to thank everyone who belayed me on numerous attempts.

This is a line that has beckoned for a while, but finally we got around to doing it, despite having some dreams of having the entire pillar tilt outward while upon it. The climbing seems relatively unique for N. Table Mt. and thus makes it worth a careful TR or a lead, if you are a bit off in the head.

Oddly, the rock sort of reminds one of Fisher Tower face climbs on the Cutler formation. A wire brush might help add some security to the foot holds.

Previously, the challenge was setting up an anchor and directionals. You approach for a TR using a gear anchor in a finger-sized crack above

Crack

, traverse leftward carefully, set some directionals (blue & black Alien. For those who really question the ability to assess rock quality for bolts in the lower pillar, this is the way to set up a TR.

Climb aboard carefully traversing leftward initially (although you can find easier climbing to the right), move upward finding various interesting edges, avoid a barndoor, and gain the top of the front pillar. Pull aboard the upper pillar moving rightward. Finish and smile that the whole thing is still standing.

Update:

Okay, the line is now equipped with 4 bolts. The last bolt is a short Fixe bolt due to me dropping the cone and sleeve at the last bolt and not finding it until later. We were out of longer stainless steel Powers bolts (10-12 lb. torque limits), so I pulled out a granite shortie (for hand drilling to complete the like). Note,

bring 2 TCU/Aliens for between bolts 3 & 4

. The anchor bolts are at the top with chains to facilitate being able to pull the rope.

Please carefully test all holds.

This climb is thin, sustained, burly, and very sequential.

This was led ground up. It is a super fun, varied, finger crack with some face moves. The middle is tricky.

The crux is near 3rd bolt, but getting there is no gimme...this route was bolted on lead with a hand drill. The first bolt saved my butt when I blew a hook on the first aid/mixed ascent...sometimes bolts are worth their weight in gold! The free ascent was tricky and physical to match...let me know if you onsight this one....

The is sort of an adventure route for N. Table. The climbing is interesting, the rock isn't perfect, but it is fun...so long as you don't think this is sport climbing. The name is inspired by the crazy trend affecting even kids that has folks forwarding silly emails or risk "bad ju-ju".

Start on a prow on jugs, clip a low bolt, and move up and slightly right on good holds to a 2nd bolt. The bulging block up and left may eventually fall out, but it didn't budge...yet. Move up past the block on jugs to a crack. #3 Camalot and blue and/or green Aliens fit the crack. From the top of the pillar, clip a bolt, make a crux move with a careful belay, and top out.

Note, the drill seemed to go in a bit quickly, making one contemplate the rock quality below the surface.

Thanks to George for loaning us his drill.

Climb a short crack into the chimney and find somewhat tricky, small gear in the thin crack on the left to protect a series of fun moves to the anchor.

This route is squeezed between '

Play With Your Balls

' and '

Flying Fish

', and climbs the rib of rock that separates both routes.

A contrived start on the arete leads to a thin crux on bad smears and sidepulls (stay off of the crack to the left for full value). Great slapping up the rest of the lower rib ends at a horizontal break, which provides a nice rest at mid-route. Tackle a hard move getting onto the headwall and negotiate your way to the anchor of '

Flying Fish

' after passing the directional bolt.

It is named after the giant, man-eating catfish caught by Jeremy Wade in the fresh water rivers of the Himalaya.

Ascend the thin seam up the bulging face. Stick clip the first bolt. The hardest moves are the start, but it is far from over.  Continue up the seam up a short right-facing corner to a horizontal break at a small overlap (5.12a/b).  A sidepull slapping redpoint crux leads above 5th bolt to a mantle finish. This climb is sustained and pumpy for its length.

This is a line that ascends a rib to the right of

Isle of Mouse

. We considered a few bolts but left it as a TR, since it is so short and is a wee bit forced.

Start up a gully with a wide hands crack or face climb (slightly harder). Move left onto the rib. You can go left to the big chockstone (keeping it 5.8) or force it on the rib (5.9). Continue up to the anchors of

Isle of Mouse

.

The name comes from George Bracksieck spying the line and pondering if it'd be a climbable line. Thanks, George!

Like all the trad routes here, this one can be a serious undertaking. Most of the placements are safe for body weight...a few are good for falling, but be careful. There is one bolt after the crux section before the roof. I drilled the bolt on lead by hand off a Beak. It took two serious tries to complete the first free ascent. There are awesome and sustained tips locking crux with some stem moves to boot...definitely my most proud route there. A beautiful addition to the area's trad portfolio...could be easier or harder than the grade I listed...a repeat will reveal more.

Short but sweet. The start is hard for any 9, but it eases up quickly into a nice, chill corner. Hit the ledge and traverse right into the hand crack that leads to the chain anchor. Super fun and varied. Ken Trout did the second ascent and gave me the idea for the name because while cleaning it just prior to the first ascent I smashed my hand with a hammer!

Start on a good left hand crimp on the side and right hand sidepull under the roof. Figure out the feet, and make a big toss to the crimp out on the lip. Pull up onto the arete, and stand up to the top.

This was led ground up and bolted on lead off hooks. The crux is moving past the last bolt.

Battle of the Bulbus says it all for this route.  Squeeze and balance your way up the high steppin' rock of this new edition to the East Quarry Wall.

This is a ridiculous link up of "

Wooly Bully

" into "

Tiger's Woody

".

Climb the crux of

WB

, then traverse right crossing the trad route "

Tiger Shark

," and finish on the fun, bouldery finish of

TW

.

Two variations exist for the link-up:

1) Clip bolt 6 of

WB

, then traverse to bolt 5 of

TW

, and continue to the anchor of

TW

(this is the easier and much more logical variation).

2) Clip bolt 5 of

WB

, then traverse straight right to the 4th bolt next to the jug pocket on

TW

and on to the anchor of

TW

(this is much more difficult than the first option, has less reliable protection in the

Tiger Shark

crack, and creates more rope drag).

*Cams are useful to protect the traverse across "

Tiger Shark

". A few slings are useful for rope drag as well.

This is a direct result of too much time spent at the East Quarry on winter days.

This is a good warm-up!!!

Start up the crack or pillar for two bolts to a rest, then climb past three more bolts to a two bolt anchor with chains. There is a move guarding the anchor.

This was bolted on lead off hooks and beaks. Hard! Stay on the face and off the adjacent routes or it's much easier than suggested....

The crux is pretty obvious, in the middle! This is a classic, good, and easy warm up. It was led free on rope solo. Really fun.

Uno, dos, one, two, tres, quatro.

Hey, wooly bully.

Watch it, now, watch it.

Hey, dog, hey, dog.

Watch it now, he'll git'cha.

Matty told Hatty about a thing she saw.

Had two big horns and a wooly jaw.

Wooly bully, wooly bully.

Wooly bully, wooly bully, wooly bully.

Hatty told Matty, "Let's don't take no chance.

Let's not be L-seven, come and learn to dance."

Wooly bully, wooly bully,

Wooly bully, wooly bully, wooly bully.

Matty told Hatty, "That's the thing to do.

Get you someone really to pull the wool with you."

Wooly bully, wooly bully.

Wooly bully, wooly bully, wooly bully.

Sam The Sham and The Pharaohs

This was led ground up on aid/free rope solo. It was led free a couple days later. There are tricky tips locks, it is short but super fun. The hard stuff is down low. Right from the get go, gain a stance and fire through the flare. It was named after my patient blue weimaraner, who provided moral support on the FA.

This variation was added as an easier direct finish, avoiding the traverse to the Spock's ear finish on

Pretzel Logic

.

Climb

Pretzel Logic

and finish directly to the anchors where

Pretzel Logic

traverses right.

"It's some weird, balancy moves with an occasional great hold."

~John Langston~

Stick clip the first bolt to pull the roof crux.  Climb the face above the ledge, right of the blunt prow.

The crux is the first 15 feet. It has a thin and awkward start. There are technical, fun, and singular moves. Stay in the crack system avoiding

Sand Shark

just to the left. Eventually jump over when you come to the

Sand Shark

anchors.

This was done ground up. It was the first route done on the East Quarry. It got the name because I placed a bunch of "Lowe Balls" on this. Further inspection revealed places to put small cams and a good stem just before the crux. So it's not as bold as I thought, I just had tunnel vision.

This looks like it might be a good trad route. Closer inspection reveals lots of extra bolts. If you are a limp old man, looking to get up, this is the route for you.

Per

Mark Rolofson

: John Langston attempted to establish the route on lead drilling 2 bolts on aid. Then below the next to last bolt on

Pretzel Logic

, he fell pulling pro from breaking rock. To finish, he swung over to

Pretzel Logic

& finished up that line. He returned to clean, inspect pro, & top rope the route. He removed one of his own bolts & did not clip the bolts on

Pretzel Logic

(the first 2 & the last 2) on his headpoint ascent. He later removed the bolts on Pretzel Logic that he skipped, moving the 2nd bolt left & creating a new finish named

Defective Agency

. I later returned to replace the first bolt & the last 2 bolts on

Pretzel Logic

. It was there first. Even with these bolts, this route is still serious & should not be underestimated. I would NOT bring just stoppers. A few Aliens seem necessary, especially a red past the crux bolt with #5-6 micro stopper to protect hard moves to reach the next to last bolt on PL.

This is a bulbous crack line that draws the eye as you walk from the Eastern approach to the East Quarry. It winds up being easier than it looks. The gear is smaller than you might expect. The crux is up high where it goes near vertical. There is a 2 bolt anchor up top.

Some may not consider this crack climbing.

The beginning has a bit of a sustained hand crack for the grade and the finish traverse is a little sinister. A good warm up with some loose rock up higher. Traverse right to the anchor atop

Nurse Shark

20 feet right of

Play With Your Balls

. This was the first route attempted here and had evidence of prior attempts. I found an old fixed hex on my first rope solo lead attempt, but I backed down and down climbed because of some severely dangerous loose blocks.

At the end, head to the anchor (

Deepwater Horizon

) on the right. This was bolted ground up on hooks. The crux is @ the 5th bolt.

Named in honor of Emilia, born to Jon and Mary, this route is a nice little line with a few variations to add value.

Find this line perhaps 50-60' to the right of

Great Wide Shark

at the right end of the obvious development at East Quarry.  Some hedge trimmers might be nice to enhance the short walk from the already cleared path.

For the above described difficulty rating, climb up using a combination of the hand crack on the left wall and the right-facing dihedral.  Maybe halfway up, the climbing pulls one to the left to finish the crack.  Move up and then stem back right into the dihedral.  Finish up on an interesting combination of face holds.  The best anchor is maybe 20 feet from the edge.  A #0.5 & #1 Camalots and a blue Alien can be used for the anchor.

There are two more variations here to play on:

1. The left crack (tight hands to wider hands) can be climbed without use of the dihedral.  The inside of the crack has mineral deposits which can make it a bit painful at times.  Finish back in the dihedral.

2. The dihedral itself may be climbed.  The crux is sequential and demands paying attention to your feet.  Protecting this on lead requires small wires and tiny cams in funkier rock. A #10 hex fits in the 1st slot with some fiddling.  You can get a #2 Camalot in the crack to the left after the crux.

To descend: walk off to the left to the descent gully perhaps 150 yards away or rap off one of the bolt anchors that you can access on the East Quarry routes to the left.

Emilia, I hope someday you will dance up this corner like your parents float up routes.

This was first led on aid rope solo ground up clean and hand drilled the bolt anchor. The FFA was a little dicey, but there is a gear placement every 2 feet if you want. Not every one is bomber, but there are enough good ones to keep you sort of safe...for a take, not a fall. It is an ok crack system with some sweet face moves. It has a very hard, semi-chossy finish to get to the chains.

It has fun and devious, slabby, face moves.

Start just left of the bottom of

Hellhound

, follow bolts up, left, and up onto the prow. Ascend the prow past the first crux then, instead of finishing on the bailout

Defective Agency

, traverse back right to engage the second crux, the "Spock's ear" finish.

When I bolted this route, I attempted to link the coolest features I could climb.  It wanders a bit but is really fun with great balance moves combined with a powerful finish.

On the FA, I was a whisker from the send, pulling up the final overhang, when a hold broke sending me flying. Eric got his turn and put it in the bag.

This has one hard pull off the ground (technical crux) and a weird move up high (endurance crux). It's a great route. This is the second route to have gone up in The Quarry.

Climb the knobular 30-foot-tall pillar, step across, and finish to anchors for the route to the right (

Narrow Face

).  Beware of blocks that appear to be cemented but may break free. The climbing is decent, pro is fair, and rock is questionable (PG-13).

This is not a main course but a decent side dish. It climbs the left (west) side of the

Isle of Mouse

pillar, then joins

Isle of Mouse

from top of pillar across to the face and up to same top anchors. It has nice face climbing up the pillar, using left and right side edges of the pillar as much or little as you please. The rock quality is good.

Climb the same as

Harambe Lives

, but don't use the arete. Pull over the bulge, and climb the face.

This is a chimney with a curious find at the bottom which might stupidly make you wonder, do deer climb?

Ascend a fun-ish chimney with more chimneying than the average Front Range climb. The pro is probably less than the average North Table climb, but you could always toprope it if you don't want to bother with protection. Its shade may provide respite from the sun on a warm day.

Due to the abundant debris, this one will take a while to truly clean up completely. Still, with the current level of grit, it is worth a run if in the area.

This is an obvious, short, trad line utilizing gargoyle-like protrusions along a crack to finish at the last bolt of

Good Ju-Ju

. Due to its location, it'll probably continue to accumulate grit on the otherwise large holds.

It may be finished directly up the final arete, but the lack of pro encouraged scurrying off to the left.

This is a good, wide crack on the right side of the area. It is fun and really easy.

The crux is enduring this dirty, gritty, little ditty.

The last ten feet are cruxy, and the pro is not reliable.

This is a short but fun TR in the right Quarry area.  Doug found it.  The climbing is more interesting now that a few big blocks were cleaned.  It is a bit less solid at the top, but you get a nice mantel & a cool toe hold in the middle.

Still, there is dirt and lichen that may lead to whining, but there are some interesting lines over here, especially that El Matador-like double dihedral.

Thinking about this a bit more after cleaning it, it could be lead.  There is a spot for a small (blue or green Alien) right below Doug's foot in the photo, and then a #1 and/or #2 Camalot in that foot hold up and right from Doug in the photo, but it would be R at least.

Originally I sent this route and thought 11c/d or so. I thought it'd be called "East Quarry Story". The most important hold on the route broke off and in trying to send it sans hold, I ripped my A4 and A2. It's been almost 2 months since I did it and I'm nowhere near being able to get back on it.

I'm tentatively rating it 12c, only because it's harder than every 12c in CCC, but I haven't re-sent it yet so I can't really say. I only got the FA before the hold broke, it's not a project, fuck this route (aside from the ripping of connective tissue and the cancellation of so many plans that it caused, it's actually a good route).

All the bolts were placed on lead.

The crux is near the top where the holds get thinner and it gets steeper.

The FA was done on lead ground up. I hand drilled the bolts off hooks. It has fun climbing that keeps you on your toes a bit.

The crux is the last 5 feet. Watch out for rocks coming down the dirty gully. Oh, watch out for the pigeons that hang in the chimney.

Start laying down with a good left hand sidepull and a right hand sloper. Find your feet and make your way up obvious but lichen covered (I cleaned the best I could) holds to the top.

There are no face holds to be found as you throw your way up this column.... Gaining the ledge after the crux sequence, good features lead to a tricky move at the anchors.

This is a nice line that is/was almost worth tossing in a few bolts to protect the first half. Given the new permit process, I'm not sure it'll get them. George and Deb risked a tight pendulum swing when they fired up it a year or two ago. Cluckers can throw in a #2 and #0.5 (and possibly a #0.75) to put in a directional or two to reduce  dribbling down the leg, cluck, cluck, cluck.

The climbing crux is near the ground as you sort of slap up the first prow with slightly slippery feet. Beware of reachy too far right lest you clutch a portable hold or two. Gain the ledge. Climb the next prow. Gain the ledge. The mental bits come ascending the crack. There is one iffy, bulbous, right foot hold that held for us. Continue up the crack. Note, the top was partially cleaned. A #2 Camalot just below the top was a final directional.

This could have been done prior to the last year or two, but it had some obvious holds to clean that suggested otherwise.

This is a narrow face that invites one to test its holds as you approach the East Quarry from the Eastern parking lot/trailhead. The line as it's chalked and how it seems to flow seems to make one feel it's a bit contorted as you get drawn out left at 1/3 height. Eventually you get drawn back into the middle of the narrow face at half height. The holds are a bit rounded, so a hot day may have you sliding off. Finish at a two bolt anchor with links.

Note, a warm day may make this feel 5.11 as you try to avoid sliming off the slippery buggers down low.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The East Quarry