A two-move wonder. Climb the vertical face past two bolts to a low-percentage stab for the notch above the bulge. Establish in the seam above and climb easily to the anchors.

Body Language

Crucifix

Running Man

The A Team

Put Your Fingers In My Pockets

Microwave

Tugena

Rage

[Redacted]

Terminal Vector

This is the last route on the right side of The Oven before you turn the corner. Follow a rightward leaning bolt line through thin moves to a very improbable crux (maybe a dyno?), clip the chains on the right side of the lip.

Power up through the undercling (or gaston - depending on beta).  Traverse right to a jug.  A wild dyno up an unlikely arete to anchors.

Pull the low crux bulge - a great boulder problem on small edges and knobs - and clip the second bolt. Continue on with sustained, technical crimping to a final desperate move near the top. A short, but totally classic route on bullet rock.

Somewhat short but worthwhile for those looking to climb something more moderate.  If the Son Tower and Popeye are busy and you don't want to climb 3 Beers Shy of a Lunar Eclipse this is a great alternative. I was looking for a route that my daughters could enjoy climbing when they get a little older and something for folks just getting into the lead game could safely learn to clip bolts on.  Tried to get some insight from a new leader on the comfortability of the clipping stances and climbing so I hope folks enjoy.  Named for my daughters and young Adler who snagged the first 6 y.o. ascent.

A nice slice of slab climbing on the far left side of The Oven. Delicate moves through the first two bolts to a thin section guarding the anchors.

Climb up and over a bulge to good pockets and a ledge. From the ledge, balance past two bolts with a technical sequence that stays on you till the anchors are clipped. Short, but packed with hard and thought-provoking moves.

A low crux requiring a powerful crank off an undercling and a dynamic move to a pocket leads to some long reaches between drilled pockets and jugs. Many of the holds are manufactured, but the moves are bouldery and fun, so that has to count for something, I guess.

Climb the first 3 bolts of "Crucifix", then angle left to clip off of a flat jug.  Power up to the anchors.  The crux is pulling through difficult underclings at the beginning of the route. Classic, sustaining, and natural.  A real beauty.

Technical crimps and side pulls with a great dyno leads you to eventually getting crammed up into the roof crack that explodes out left. The roof crack is a series of underclings and hard ring locks. Tricky Beta...get creative.

The Oven is easily identified by the huge roof in the right-center portion of the wall. This section of rock contains a dense collection of super-hard routes!

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Oven