Bolting Elvis's

Alpha Monkeys

Bloody Bones

To Air is Human

Evil Party Vortex

Cohiba

Whispers (Cohiba Extension)

Case Study

Guilty Pleasures

Payback

Crank Call

Natural Prozac

Eyewitness Blues

Psycho Friends

One route right of Crank Call. Start without cheater blocks on thin side pulls and underclings. Find a way through the series of hidden holds in the middle chose to arrive at a brutally drastic headwall ready to fight for your life. Good Luck.

A great steep and thuggy line, which is a rarity outside bouldering for the Flagstaff area. Begin below a short bulge and make some engaging moves to the break. Surmount another small ledge feature to the start of the meat of the climbing. Make your way out the steep section to a powerful and dynamic crux through the headwall.

This is the obvious thin crack that starts up the center of Main Wall and ends at the anchors shared with "Psycho Friends".  A bouldery start past the first few bolts leads to a good hold and the third bolt.  From here technical climbing on fingerlocks and the occasional face hold leads up to the roof above.  Pull the roof on good holds and crank up to the lip to clip the anchors.

Follow some of the coolest looking holds on the entire wall to the obvious crux: pulling onto the final headwall. Ride the impeccable limestone to the  anchors.

Cruise up and over the obvious dihedral to the anchors at the horizontal under the roof. Sustained climbing on the entire route leads to a heinous boulder problem crux at the top.

This fun climb is the warmup of the crag, it has fixed draws so you don't even have to clean it.  Start up the easy left facing flake passing a few hangerless studs.  After the flake head up steeper ground on great holds through the choss band to the anchors.   

  Continuing higher up the featureless headwall is a project.

Whispers is the bouldery headwall above the fixed draw warm up Cohiba. Climb up through cruxy pockets above the chains of Cohiba, follow edges and pockets on the best rock in Jacks Canyon to arrive at the anchors. Fixed Draws and Anchors.

A bouldery start through the first two bolts leads to decent holds at the third bolt.  Engaging climbing through good holds leads to a nice rest at the 5th bolt.  From here a massive undercling move (climbers shorter than 5`5" or so beware)  leads to big cranks between good holds with minimal feet.  Finally a good flake provides a rest before clipping the chains.

Pull off the ground with a tricky move on a small suspicious pocket and a sidepull and make a tricky move to a good hold.  From here negotiate the burly thin crux on another suspicious pocket and micro crimps to a jug and the first rest.  From here the climbing eases but stays continuous to the anchors. 

  The upper half of this route is really enjoyable but the chipped start hurts the quality of the line.

Boulder problem start to moderate climbing to harder boulder problem finish on the waterstreaked headwall.

Start up the right facing dihedral past the first two bolts.  Above the second bolt traverse left on jugs clipping the third bolt shared with "Eye Witness Blues".  From here follow the obvious crack up and left utilizing jams but mostly good holds in and to the side of the crack.  At the top of the crack a tricky and awkward mantle is encountered to gain the slab.  Once on the slab the difficulties ease and continue up to the anchors. 

  A second pitch "Chossing the Dragon" is an open project. 

  If you traverse right from the below along the crack below the roof to the anchors on "Guilty Pleasure" it is "Snake Bite Traverse"

A cool looking line that manages to break through the large roof capping the lower tier of the crag. Off the ground, two engaging sections of climbing lead to a technical and unique crux entering into the dihedral on the left side of the hanging double arête/pillar. Climb to the top of the dihedral and to an obvious rest at the horizontal. Recoup and fire the potentially heartbreaking last boulder problem over the roof. Follow the large flake feature leading to an interesting mantle to clip the anchor.

This burly crack climb might feel difficult for the grade if you only face climb.  Head up the right facing dihedral with a combination of jams and liebacks.  At the corner some good footholds provide a nice rest before the crux traverse under the roof.  Extending the draws under the roof will make the final moves easier.  Probably best to TR this one to clean it. 

  "Psycho Friend Network" continuous across the roof to the anchors for Guilty Pleasures for 12b credit, have fun cleaning this one.

This great looking wall contains around 20 established routes and 5 open projects.  The left side of the wall is overhanging to a small roof at the top and then an overhanging headwall.  The right side is on more vertical clean limestone.  Grades range from 10c to 14a, with the majority being 12's and 13's.

Description

Routes in Main Wall