This is an extension to the

First Overhang

problem.

Start on the far right side of the boulder, and traverse to the start of

First Overhang

. Finish with

First Overhang

. The traverse portion itself is probably V3/4 depending on how you feel about the first move, it definitely adds some extra cool movement.

First Overhang Traverse

Left On Right

First Overhang

Masochism Tango

French Trumpeter

This is a fun and much easier variation to the uber classic

First Overhang

. Somebody showed this to me about 10 years ago (I can't remember who). I am calling it Left on Right, because that is how it varies from the original. You use your left hand on the right hand holds, plus two others. The key hold doesn't hold chalk and is hard to see. It is soft V4 by Flagstaff standards.

Start as usual and reach up left, then up with the right to a hard-to-see, good edge in a black spot. Get your feet up on the starting jug and then your left hand to the small, right hand crimp on

F.O.

, and your right hand to a good pinch at the lip. Get your feet up off the jug, and do a left hand deadpoint to the lip for the crux move.

A Flagstaff classic!  This is one of the more prominent problems at Flag due to its visibility and proximity to the upper parking area.  Beginning on the large jug on the boulder's south face, make cool moves up and left to a positive hold for your left hand.  From here two super-thin edges guard the crux moves to the lip.

I have seen the problem graded in various guides anywhere from v5 to v7.  The discrepancy is probably due to the fact that a key hold apparently broke in the last few years making it harder.  I can't even get off the ground on other v7s at Flag, so I highly doubt it's that hard.  Still, I found it more difficult than Flag v5s like Hagans, Eric Varney, Face Out, and Polling Pebble, so I'm tempted to believe its probably v6.  Whatever: its a great problem!

A slightly harder variation (F.O. traverse) comes in from the lower right and finishes on F.O.

This route is left of First Overhang on the prow/corner as far back in the corner as a problem could get.  The way I've seen it done is getting a somewhat high left hand edge that's not too bad, but certainly not positive, and pulling up utilizing a shallow pocket for the right to a lockoff and reach with the right real high on the bulge/face.  From here the problem follows better holds once you find 'em to the top.

I myself have not yet done this problem, so my assessment of the difficulty is only secondhand.  Let's just say I hear it's hard.  Perhaps someone (Chip Phillips?) knows when Christian Griffith first did this problem.

From either of the stand starts (the RH jug option seems most popular), climb up and left along a diagonal passing a good crimp and moving into a high gaston. Crank to bring your feet up, cross to a pebble, and top it out.

Description

Protection

Routes in First Overhang