The ominous pancake flake left of

Welcome to West Germany

is the first of 3 roofs on this steep line. This finishes at the anchors of

Lenten Passage

.

It was originally going to have a separate finish and anchor, but we deemed the anchor block unsafe.

Hope You Like Pancakes

Raggedy Ann

Ride the Heavens

Call of the Wildman

The Incredible Mr. Limpet

Turtleman

Ashes and Dust

Bolt You Be My Valentine

Live Action

Explain Yourself

The Adventures of Rocky and Bullwinkle

Son of Flubber

Lenten Passage

Arms Wide Open

The Three Caballeros

The Absent Minded Professor

The Advocate

Blazing Saddles

Raggedy Andy

Scenic Ride

Team Umizoomi

Night Into Day

Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles

Welcome to West Germany

From the intermediate anchor on

Lenten Passage

, take the flakes up and right out the left side of the

Scenic Ride

flake protecting with 9 bolts. The FA was by PH, GH.

Note: a block 15 feet up is stable but needs to go.

Raggedy Ann is a little easier than its neighbor

Raggedy Andy

and not quite as good, but it is still worth doing. Going low on the route if you move left then back right it makes for an easier climb. Straight up the bolt line is more fun but a little harder.

This meets up with the route to the right (

Raggedy Andy

) at the last bolt and shares the same anchor.

The crux is right off the deck followed by some easier moves to a spicy finish. The guidebook gives it 5.11b, but it felt much harder to me.

The first 2 bolts take you to a ledge. Then follow 4 bolts on a slab near the arete.

Climb over the low roof, a moderate middle roof, and the crux roof. Finish right of the prow.

The most difficult part of the climb is near the start and the first three bolts. The rock here has a lot of lichen, and the holds are small. There is a small overhang between the 5th and 6th bolts. The overhang can be climbed directly or you can move to the left near a bush and basically skip the overhang. The climb seems like a mountaineering route as you pass easy sections, almost walkable, separated by steep rock climbing sections. The route gets you up quite high, and the view from the anchor is great.

This routes is the namesake route for the wall. It is very powerful and bouldery in middle of the route with a much easier start and finish.

There's an extension "Action Packed," 5.12b (FA: Kevin Capps, 2016) that adds 5 bolts to this climb and gets you 125 feet off the deck.

Follow a bolt on a detached, large block to a bulge. Surmount the bulge, and explain yourself if it is easy. Momentarily marvel at the project up left. Move right around the arete, and climb up to an anchor.

This has lots of climbing at a consistent grade. About 2/3 of the way up a large flake was removed after the FA that makes a nice ledge. From there, move slightly right, and follow bolts up the layback to the anchors.

The crux is low, a few bolts up, after pulling onto the upper face. Thin and balancy face moves lead to much easier climbing. The crux is cool, but the route is not sustained. There are some very loose blocks just off the ground (avoidable).

This improbable route weaves up corners and blocks to the final dihedral to the top of the wall. There is an intermediate anchor at the ledge 2/3 of the way up.

At the 7th bolt, climb to the left. DO NOT GO RIGHT to the loose rock.

This climbs the overhanging prow left of

The Incredible Mister Limpet

.

This has fun climbing with good movement. It seemed easier than 11b to us on that day. The crux is in the first half of the pitch. This needs some more lichen removed, like all the routes here.

With 2 "cruxy" sections separated by some enjoyable and engaging climbing, this is a nice route. Closely bolted, it starts with a steep section through/around some overhanging rock. Near the final bolt there is another tough bulge.

This was hard at the bottom and easy at the top. I had a tough time to even clip the 3rd bolt.

Climb an easy slab to a ledge. Clip 1 bolt on

Night Into Day

, and follow a steep crack on amazing incuts. A hands-off rest can be found on the namesake saddle.

Raggedy Andy is a fun warm-up that stays consistently challenging on the first half of the route, requiring careful balancing using good sidepulls.

It meets up with

Raggedy Ann

at the last bolt and shares the same anchor.

This is the steep upper pitch above

The Absent-Minded Professor

and can be accessed by one of a couple routes below it. While the routes below it may not be all that great, this route is definitely worth climbing! Some varied technical face climbing leads to the steepest 5.11a climb I've seen in CCC. It is a good warm-up for the harder climbs on the wall. It is

140 feet from the anchor to the ground!

There are mid-anchors, so all you need is one standard length rope.

Team Umizoomi has nice movement, but it still has some lichen. It stops at the first anchor you come to.

Climb same easy slab as

Blazing Saddles

, then follow bolts on steep wall right of the crack.

Easy climbing steepens to more sustained moves. A rest on the slanting ledge is found before the exposed/strenuous hand traverse right to the anchors around the arete. It was named for Jon Dory's son Ian who is one of the top Ninjas on TV (also not a bad climber).

Start with a couple of close bolts, moving right into a little chimney. Clip a 3rd bolt in the chimney with an extended draw, and back clean the first 2, otherwise the rope drag will be heinous. Use the awesome horn to move out right onto the face. There's an oddly placed bolt on the face that is too low to be useful - skip it, and clip the 2nd bolt on the face, then continue straight up past some more bolts.

I thought this climb had a bit of an adventurous feel to it and was worth a climb if you're here. You can use this route to get to the upper pitch of

Scenic Ride

.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Live Action Wall