This problem provides good, if not immediately endearing climbing. The footholds are sparse, slick and never in the optimal location for the moves they support. Handholds are off-balance sidepulls and odd crack pod finger lock pockets. Most moves, from bottom to fluttery topout, feel insecure. From the first good topout holds, relax, breathe, and slowly climb around the blunt arete to the left. These moves are easier than the climb proper, but you're way off the ground, probably pumped and no longer over the pads. Downclimb the 5.7, broken corner to the left of the problem.

This problem would be a poor choice for a climber who sometimes sends 5.10s or has no head for highballs. A fall from higher moves, even onto pads, could have you in a cast or casts all summer. Be safe!

Unnamed Tunnel 1 Highball

Creek Corner

Graffiti Face

The crux comes right from the start.  The rock here is somewhat polished and the holds are small.  I think it is harder than 10c, but that is what it is rated in the newest guidebook.  You can get small cams in about 10 feet up (really small).  Above this, the climbing gets easier and you pass an old bolt without a hanger.  The top joins "

Creek Corner

," and the two routes share the same anchor.

This route is not bad if you are in the area and gives you easy access to the bolt anchor if you wish to top-rope something harder.  The crux is in the big left-facing dihedral near the top.  There is lots of protection on the climb.  It is a fairly interesting route close to the road and Golden itself.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in East Side of Tunnel 1