The following description is the one reported by the FA party.  Longer ropes will make short work of this route.

Pitch 1: Start just right of the prow of the ridge, and climb a long pitch via faces and cracks up to the right to reach a large ledge.

Pitch 2: step right and climb cracks and a chimney for another long pitch to a belay right on the arete of the ridge.

Pitch 3: climb up the face and ridge (easy 5th), with some exposure to the left, for about 100'.

Pitch 4: continue up a short corner to a ridge, and follow it for 2 easy long pitches to the summit.

Descent: climb down to a small notch to the east, from where a 150' rap reaches a gully.  Scramble UP this gully to a point where you can cross the ridge to the right.  This is the ridge connecting the spire with the massif.  Descend the scree gully back to the lake.

North Ridge of Hayden Lake Pinnacle

North Ridge of Hayden Spire a.k.a. The dumbest idea in the park

Northeast Ridge of Hayden Spire

East Face of East Pinnacle

Standard Route of Hayden Spire

This is basically the crest of Hayden's main North features, starting at the lowest point, Topping out on the East Pinnacle. Someone has had to have climbed it, but we found no evidence. We did 9 roped pitches, 1 -100' rappel off a tower, and lots of "easy" scrambling.

3 out of 9 pitches were really good, the rest is....mountainy

we dodged a few obviously sick sections of exposed arete/ridge for the sake of time and cranky weather, but It's clean all the way if you stick to the ridge!

Descent: Continue to divide and Flattop trail via Hayden's long summit ridge (3rd class).

OR arrange a descent back to Lonesome Lake to the east of the Spire for Trail Ridge Rd access.

The route name was inspired by our good friend Kelly Cordes, who, upon hearing about our torturous hike exclaimed, "That must be the dumbest idea in the Park!"

Begin at Lonesome Lake and scramble up to the notch on the northeast ridge between Hayden Spire's summit and the East Pinnacle.  Follow the ridge SW to the summit.  See the photo.

The East Face of the East Pinnacle is the largest face on the Hayden massif.  There are several route options here, but this line follows the prominent dihedral system on the left or south side of the face.  Head up over easy ground for the first pitch to reach the base of the vertical dihedral system. The second pitch is the crux pitch with very nice stemming options and plenty of holds on the face.  From the nice ledge system at the top of this pitch, pick your line heading up to the summit.

This is the easiest route to the high point of Hayden Spire approached from The Divide.  Scramble along the southwest ridge to the top.

The comments below may be helpful to give you an idea of the route finding challenges.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Hayden Spires