On 7/22/77, I led Claire Carren up this (see the pic on Whistler’s Mother page). In my journal, I called our route the “SW Corner.” The final moves to the top were indeed on the corner. I think that the corner does face southwest, and the start is on the SE Face.

Today (5/09/20) was my first visit to the rock since then. I followed Dave Wichman up the “West Face” route, which I hadn’t done before. The same pipe, which was our 1977 rap anchor, was sticking out of the top.

Southeast Face

West Face Variation

West Face

Northwest Arete

Climb the west face of the tower to a right-leaning hand crack under the roof. Jam the crack, pull the ledge, and climb to the top. Be advised of poor rock quality.

Start this route on the left side of the SW face. Climb discontinuous cracks to a 5.7 mantle move on the corner of the pinnacle. Clip a bolt and balance up the slab to the two bolt anchor. Don't forget to climb above the anchor to stand on top, the views are definitely worth it!

A variety of techniques is required to climb the intermittent crackiness up occasionally fragile rock, to the junction with the

West Face

route, which is followed to the top. The obvious, loose-looking block resisted my attempt to pull, kick, and even vibrate it. So it’s probably ok to ignore.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Whistler's Mother