Paradise - the traverse “And daddy won’t you take me back to Muhlenberg County Down by the Green River where Paradise lay Well, I’m sorry my son, but you’re too late in asking Mister Peabody’s coal train has hauled it away.” There is a ledge, about 20 feet up, that runs from one end of the John Prine wall to the other. This route is a traverse on that ledge. It is probably best done on top rope when there are no other parties on the wall. We suggest setting up your top rope on one of the center routes and starting in the middle, using the start of “Angel” to reach the ledge. From there (with an attentive belayer) traverse from one end to the other, and then back to the starting point.The route is 40 feet end to end, so if you do a round trip as suggested it's 80 feet.

 

The Traverse

We Are The Lonely

Sam Stone

Fish and Whistle

Illegal Smile

Let's Talk Dirty In Hawaiian

Dear Abby

Leave The Lights On

Angel From Montgomery

“ I chased a rainbow down a street — dead end. And all my friends turned out to be — insurance salesman.” This route starts just right of “We are the lonely”. It then goes up the right side of a steep arete. 

“Worthless, ruthless, toothless man wants wealthy women with a plan.” This route is at the North end of the JP wall, next to the sign for the wall and a large tree.Near the fifth bolt, move right to better holds 

”There’s a hole in Daddy’s arm where all the money goes”.  This route is right of Dear Abby and even closer to the big Oak Tree. The tree is on for those who find the start difficult. There is a nice layback section provided by the flake above the third bolt. 

"Father forgive us for what we must do, You forgive us and we'll forgive you. We'll forgive each other 'til we both turn blue, and go whistle and fishing in the heavens."This route has perhaps the easiest start on the wall, but it becomes delicate and interesting up on the ledge.

 “...waka waka nuka licka, would you like a lei? Eh?” This is the longest route on the JP wall. It’s about 6 feet right of Sam Stone. 

“Dear Abby, Dear Abby, Now I never thought that me and my girlfriend would ever get caught We were sitting in the back seat just shooting the breeze, with her hair up in curlers and her pants to her knees. Signed, Just married" 

 The route Dear Abby starts in a dihedral just left of the big White Oak tree. It is quite varied and sustained. For those who find it difficult, just remember Abby’s advice “You have no complaint. You are what you are and you ain’t what you ain’t.

"It's like sitting in the kitchen when the music's really bitchin' Your nose it starts to itchin' As you count your old age pension ... Got a big ol' dog, a chrome crowbar I keep that mother humper in the back seat of my car."This route is something of a one move wonder - well, maybe two. It has an easy start and an easy finish. The crux is getting past the third bolt where the holds are small and far apart. Tall folks may find it easy but short people will have a battle on their hands.

“ How the hell can a person go to work in the morning and come home in the evening and have nothing to say?” There are two ways to start this route. The easier way is from the right following the left leaning bolt line. The harder is going straight up to the second bolt. The crux involves getting past the third bolt. 

This wall lies between the Landing and the Dog Walk, both far to the climber’s left of the great staircase. It is shaded by four large trees close to its base. It is named after the great singer/songwriter John Prine, a victim of the Covid-19 pandemic. As Bob Dylan put it, “Prine’s stuff is pure Proustian existentialism. Midwestern mind trips to the nth degree. And he writes beautiful songs.”

 Each route here has the name of a John Prine song.  For those climbers unfamiliar with his oeuvre a few lyrics are included In the description of each route. 

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in H: John Prine Wall