Another must do climb if you are visiting Youtklut Pillars. Easily toproped. Refer to Rock Climbing Western Oregon, Vol. 2: Umpqua 2007, topo page 253.

Double Crack

Alley Oop

Chinquapin

Throw it Back

First Date

Cave Route

Almost Polock

3D Crack

Twin Sister

Dime

This is one of the classics at the pillars, but requires some maintenance at the beginning of each season. Refer to Rock Climbing Western Oregon, Vol. 2: Umpqua 2007, topos pages 252-253.

Short bolted face climb to the left of Chinquapin Crack.

Chiquapin has a variety of off-width and fist size crack moves. It is a popular route at the pillars. Top anchors are easily accessed from a scramble trail coming in from the side. Largely in the shadows and requires some maintenance at the beginning of each season. Refer to Rock Climbing Western Oregon, Vol. 2: Umpqua 2007, topo page 252.

2nd crack left of the Dime. Refer to Rock Climbing Western Oregon, Vol. 2: Umpqua 2007, topo pages 253-254.

Crack to the right of Twin Sister. Refer to Rock Climbing Western Oregon, Vol. 2: Umpqua 2007, topo page 252.

Refer to Rock Climbing Western Oregon, Vol. 2: Umpqua 2007, topo page 254.

A crack climb that varies from 5.8 to 5.10+ depending on if you stay in the crack or not. Refer to Rock Climbing Western Oregon, Vol. 2: Umpqua 2007, topo page 252.

A face climb using two columns, finishing on Fist Date (5.8) to the right.

Good large pro, a mix of face climbing, offwidth, crack and layback, and sustained to the top.

Youtlkut (Yu klut) Pillars is a 180-foot high formation of columnar dacite. There is easy class-4 access using a very steep scramble trail around the left side (looking up) of the pillars. Bolt anchors without chains have been placed in a short headwall on top which is set back about 6 feet from the edge of the columns. Establishing a topropes requires lots of webbing or cordelette. The pillars receive afternoon sun. They are above 4400 feet so the area is typically snowed in until June or later. The pillars provide for fun but sharp columnar face and crack climbs. Refer to Rock Climbing Western Oregon Vol 2: Umpqua 2007 pages 249-255. There's a bathroom and trails have been built. No-fee camping within the old growth timber across the road from the pillars.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Youtlkut Pillars