Lone Pine Diagonal

"The Gap"

No Way Down Direct AKA "Tyrolean Tower"

Last Crack

No Way Down

HIDDEN GEM ALERT! I would have given it 4 stars but for a potentially reachy move at the top. Laybacking through a technical crux in the middle to a double-gaston has you staring a meager foot smears and a dynamic lunge to a finishing sloper.

The Gap is listed in Sven's guidebook as starting in "The Gap" between the south wall of T Tower and a blank face. I started the route on "No Way Down" and belayed my partner to the ledge to do the rest of the route. The 5.8 version goes up a layback crack then right to the corner, a 5.9 version goes straight up (not recommended).

This is the direct finish to "No Way Down". A double direct version is in Sven's guidebook as "Tyrolean Tower" and starts at the "Southeast rounded corner" of the tower and is rated at 5.10d. I looked at the corner and didn't see any pro whatsoever so I led this version instead.

Wow. Best way to the top of the tower. Easy to the north platform but from there unprotected climbing up the face, slightly left, and to the top. Unnamed route #3 in Sven's guidebook.

Very cool tower and a nice face to the south.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Tyrolean Tower