The classic trad route of Willow Springs.  This route faces NE and can be cold, it is shady most of the day.  Last time I led this I kinda forgot about all the wide sections and got a bit nervous on the runouts.  It is quite commonly led with nothing bigger than a #4 Camalot (or less), for which it should probably be considered to have an "S" rating. 

  If you don't have big gear you can just do the first (short) pitch and rap from bolts.  Be considerate of others who want to do the entire route, however.  Especially with a 60m rope, it is possible to lead this as one long pitch, although you may want to do a short second pitch to reach the walk-off. 

  Climb the obvious crack in the center of the cliff.  The first part is hand jamming and stemming, you will reach a 2 bolt anchor at 60'.  From here you can toprope Ragged Edges and Plan F to its left.  Above here the crack gets wider, at one point where it looks like you will have to get inside and offwidth it you move out onto the right face.  The top out is rather indistict and it can be hard to find a good belay anchor.  Watch out for crumbly rock at the top out. 

  From the top, walk down easily to the right (north).

Ragged Edges

Midheight

Dumptruck

The Nightman Cometh

Bodiddly

Go Ahead, Ok?

Midnight

Revoked

Ok Ok Ok

Diplomatic Immunity

Chicken Eruptus

Go Ahead and Jump

Tonto

Unknown crack

Kemosabe

Dense Pack

Getting Too Old for This S--t

Footloose

Plan F

Crooked Crack

Theme Book

Aikido Gun Boy

Sheep Trail

Lethal Weapon

Dense Dunce

Plan F - first pitch (5.9)

To the left of Ragged Edges is this tasty lookin' crack system that ends at the two-bolt anchor of Ragged Edges. This is where the route ends... and is 5.9. Good pro all the way on excellent holds. Hardly any crack climbing until... well, you'll figure it out. 

  The continuation of the original route after the 5.9 crux (without clipping the bolts on Ragged Edge's anchor) moves left through two bolts and some spicy 5.11 climbing.  

  Tick this here route if ya only do the 5.9.

Climbs huecos and edges to common finishing ledge as Go Ahead and Jump-belay on ledge and walk right to rappel from common midanchor on aforementioned route. For those curious about the odd name, it comes from the precise point on the climb when you get your first believable gear.

Follows the seam atop the boulder just left of Go Ahead and Jump to its apex, then juggy varnish to the rap tree. Gear is spotty but the rock is good and the climbing is fun.

Start atop boulder just left of Go Ahead and Jump. Follow huecos and a shallow arch rightwards with a piece in the seam keeping you off the ground, make some reachy moves, then head left and clip a well-needed piece before moving into a resty pod. Place tiny wires above, blast up a thin face, and relax when you get to bigger holds near the topout. Anchor in handcrack just left of topout.

PG13/R   3 bolts in first 75'   Have to do the crux before clipping 3rd bolt and  then thin moves to Jug. You could become a    second-hand moving counter-clock-wise on a cheap watch:)

Fun face climbing up great rock with nice movement. 

  Seems fairly consistant. 

  Probably has been lead/TR'd a bunch but its a fun diversion if you're in the area.

Climb fun moves on really quality stone up a black streak. The bolt on this one has been broken off for a looong time-be glad you're not the one that snapped it. Above the bolt, nice climbing with a couple of reaches leads to steep jugs and an anchor crack that takes hand sized pieces.

Climb the crack to a ledge shared with Diplomatic Immunity.  The crack is a bit awkward and doesn't seem to like having people in it.  Plenty of face holds on the left mitigate this.  The difficulty eases the higher you climb.

Climb the crack up to a large ledge.  Building an anchor is tough, but you can get waist-deep in a slot between the wall the crack is in and the main wall.  There is a small tree that can be slung.   

  Traverse left from the top of the climb to a large chimney with a rap tree.

Start at an overhanging section using some nice face holds and hand jams.  Climb the crack straight up to the large flat area with a slung tree to the right.  Continue to the left to a large ledge (really just a scramble), or rap from the tree (this significantly shortens the route).  The ledgy area is also the top of Revoked. 

  If you continue the climb from the ledge, scramble back to the slung tree and rap. 

  Keep in mind, the beginning moves are harder than 5.5.

This route begins 25 ft. (or so!) to the right of Ragged Edges, look for the first bolt (it's up there alittle bit!). Climb up to the first bolt, then follow the path of least resistance past at least one more bolt. You will use mostly wires and small cams for the climb but slightly bigger cams can be used at the anchor. I gave this route an "s" per the guide book, however I feel it to be well protected for the solid 5.10 leader. Eating at the all you can eat chicken Buffet prior to climbing this route is, apparently, not recomended!! 

  To descend either walk off to the west or rap Tonto with one rope (60 Meter). 

Go Ahead and Jump is located about 25 yards left, or east, of Kemosabe and five feet right of a large (5 foot tall) white boulder leaning against the crags. Climb the crack located on the black face through a chimney and up to a tree - optional belay and rappel station. Pull through another chimney to a ledge and another tree. Belay here then hike west to the top of Tonto and rappel that route with a 60 meter rope.

30 feet left of Ragged Edges is an obvious finger crack on a low angle face.  It is just to the right of a large arch that curves to the right.  Foot smears at the start turns into foot jams in the crack.  About half way up move out of the crack to the right on the face to jugs at the top.  It gets easier as you go.  Two stars because decent 5.5's are hard to come by at RR.

Great crack climb to the left of Crooked Crack. Follow the hand crack of the first 50 feet, when that crack ends go up right of the small roof, but then immediately traverse left to the crack on that side. Finish on the same rounded top as Crooked Crack. 

  This route is not in the guide so any info regarding FA, proper name, or such greatly appreciated.

Past the left end of Ragged Edges Cliff is a shady hollow featuring the climb Tonto. To the left of Tonto is a large white arching flake. Climb the arête of this flake leading to a thin right-leaning crack on the outside of this arch. Continue up to a bolt on the face as the crack peters out. Climb to the left of the bolt for the 5.9 escape or to the right for the 5.10a finish. Belay at some horizontal cracks and rappel from a tree at the top of Tonto with one 60 meter rope.

Climb a steep 20 foot right-facing corner. Exit left to a stance and proceed to climb technical face up varnished crimps to a large belay ledge. Gear anchor. 

Start on the white boulder just left of Go Ahead and Jump.  Climb the face above, starting up the thin seam, finishing up the water streak.  Similar in genre and theme to other climbs in the area.  If anyone (Wendell?) has any info on prior ascents, I'd love to hear it.

A short, semi-fun climb that goes right of an overhang. The crux is getting past a slight bulge. The rest of the route is not too exciting.

This climb starts just to the left of Ragged Edges on the obvious finger crack. Then angle up and left past a few bolts up varnished slippery face to the top. You can also traverse right to the Ragged Edges Anchor (5.10-). The finger crack is nice with good locks and gear.

Nice crack going up a moderate angled wall. The crack trends right then straight up and then back left. Longer slings will help with rope drag. 

Descent: 

  After topping out, scramble right and down to a small tree with webbing and rap ring. One single rope rap gets you down.  

(note -  From the base of the wall, this rap is above a pillar to the right of the route.  The tree is visible from the ground.)

  A alternate rap can be done from above the route Tonto.

An easy low-angle face leads to a short but physical offwidth through a section of black varnish.  The climb then opens up into a large chimney with easy climbing over poor rock; not much pro for this part.  This climb would get more stars if it was all like the bottom section, without the chossy chimney up high.  However, this is still a good route if you want to work on some 5.9 offwidth technique.

This thin, bold, andimpressive route lies just to the right of Chicken Eruptus and starts with a cool boulder problem up to a blocky section before delicate climbing is required to reach the first bolt. From there, its game on past three more bolts and some thin gear to a good ledge.  

  It seems some holds have broken and become smaller on this route in recent years- the route feels solid 5.12 now, with the moves going to the second bolt having gotten substantially harder. It would be wise, I think, to relegate this route to TR only for all but the strongest and boldest climbers out there. 

  Note: Gaining the second bolt will require the leader to be extremely bold and be willing to climb hard 5.11 above marginal, micro protection which, if it fails, will likely result in a groundfall from above 40'. This route is extremely dangerous.  

  Note: This route can be TR'd if you bail right at the break on Chicken. Bring 2 #3 Camalots and a nut for the anchor.

50' right of Ragged Edges. Just right of a line with a couple bolts on it. 

  Boulder up some whitish rock, (crux no pro), then continue up fun climbing to a very shallow left-facing flake/corner system. 

  Continue to the top and walk off.

Climb the corner; at its top pull left onto the face and continue up to a bushy ledge.

Black varnished face right of Go Ahead and Jump.

Ragged Edges is the main attraction on this wall.

Description

Protection

Routes in Ragged Edges Area