Yet another retro-bolted crack climb.  This climb follows a nice finger crack for most of it's length, and then moves right at the top to join the anchors for Thursday Knights.  Fun moves and good pro!

Excalibur

Watts Up?

Wounded Knee

Bolts-n-Burger

Velcro Fly

The Flying Circus

Nemesis

Dawn Patrol

Stretch Armstrong

Generic Crack

The Throb

Steve’s Offwidth

Lizard Breath

Lancelot

The Doug Scott Route

Barry, Barry

Constant Current

Dos Pescadores

Row Your Boat

French Fried

Crunchy Frogs

Ohm's Law

Pictures of Lily

Thursday Knights

Pabst Smear

Circuit Breaker

The Standard

Crack directly right of Row Your Boat. Follow the crack to the top of the pillar, then head left to the Row Your Boat anchors. Alternatively, head right for a 5.10d variation, but with no anchors.

No distinct crux, maybe tougher the higher you go. Fun traverse to anchors of Circuit Breaker.

A fine offwidth established by Bob Boyles in the mid 70s.

About the route, Bob offers the following observations:

“The distance between the good pro is rather far and I'm sure I would have grounded out if I popped out higher up. I always thought the "wounded" knee jam lower down was the crux. That's where you have to pull your knee out where the crack pinches down a bit.”

Follow the finger crack in the corner. Don't miss all the good holds on the arête to the left. If you finish straight up the finishing move to the anchor is really hard! You can also finish up and right and then traverse back left if you can't get the last move.

Superb jamming up a hand crack with a crux move to the anchors on top.  Excellent!

A delicate and engaging thin seam just to the right of The Throb. I think the intended line goes directly up and right to the anchors on Kaopectate, but you can also finish left on The Throb with good pro and exciting movement. One of the best cracks at the cliffs!

Typical sport route for this area. Crux between 2nd & 3rd bolts; take care not to blow the 3rd clip as it could hurt.

A very fun addition to West Carbody. Stick-clip the first bolt or clip it from the Velcro Fly start column. The first 4 bolts are characterized by good quality Black Cliffs 5.10+ arete climbing on interesting holds. Cop a rest when you can on the blocky section near the top , clip that last bolt, and punch it through an overhanging boulder problem to the anchors. It is possible to clip the last bolt and skirt out right to the Velcro Fly anchors to avoid the 5.11d+ crux

Fun climbing that starts out easy in a small vertical open book with a crack and ample holds.  At the top of the open book move right and get ready for the business!  Ascend the overhanging corner/finger-crack above to the anchors.

Straightforward 5” offwidth crack with plenty of constrictions offering very secure feet.

Fun climb with slightly slopey holds near the bottom that become more positive as you get higher up.

Crack to Flying Circus anchors.  Starts low with hand jams and quickly turns to standard Black Cliffs "sport climbing while plugging gear in a crack".  One loose block at the top that's marked, but doesn't appear to be going anywhere.  After I climbed it, I rapped the route and cleaned off all the loose stuff I could find so it's good to go.

Fun jammin!  Sandy Epeldi's book describes this as "the best jam crack in the area."  The crack starts about 15 off the deck and there isn't much for pro before that.

Watch for nested owls after the roof at the end of the crack.

Fun face climbing with good protection where you need it.  Nice steep finish.

Another great Black Cliffs trad climb that demands a variety of crack climbing skills! Start in a corner with sweet double cracks that go from wide hands to fists. After topping out on the column on the left side, get ready for some perfect finger locks. Entertaining face climbing follows all the way to the anchors. Great climb, and a bit of a proud lead for a 5.8. Edit: Two photos show two different routes. The darker photo is Constant Current, the lighter photo is actually Barry Barry.

Start on Thursday Knights, but cut right after the 3rd bolt. Get a good rest on the ledge before the finish, then climb up an overhanging face with impeccable rock using widely spaced finger locks. Tough finishing moves!

Climb up bolted column face without straying into Bolts and Burgers on the left or the sweet looking hand crack on the right.  Crimpy crux near the top of the pillar.  Mantle onto the top of the pillar, clip the last bolt, and then a few more easy moves land you at the chains.

Is the climb fried or are you?  Small edges interspersed with rest jugs climb the middle of the pillar followed by a brief roof to reach the chains.

Weird thought-provoking moves.  It's all there but not exactly obvious (at least to me).  Greasy on a hot day.  This climb is a bit spicy due to interesting bolt placement that puts you in ledge-fall territory near the second AND third bolts.

This is a very entertaining climb!  It follows a finger crack up a corner, with plenty of edges for your feet for *most* of the climb.  The crux is in the middle and involves a few moves without the straightforward feet, but with good finger locks.  The moves at the top are fun too, and easier than they look from below.

Technical and sustained climbing using various small holds the whole way.  The reach from the final stance to the anchors is long and could prove problematic for the vertically challenged . . .

Fun dihedral stemming leads to an overhanging finish on positive holds. Great climb!

Technical and sustained palming, smearing, and stemming.  Don't underestimate the finish, this route doesn't let up until you are at the anchor!

Apparently this route originally went on gear and was subsequently retro-bolted.  Without the bolts the pro looked like it would be very thin and tricky! What a bold FA!

Extremely fun climbing up a pronounced column.  Weave between the left, right, and center of the column as you go.  As usual for the Black Cliffs, the finishing moves do not disappoint!

One of the original black cliffs climbs. Route starts in a chimney right above a fallen column. Ample holds, easy chimney, and takes good pro.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in West Car Body Canyon