A bit wandering, but the destination is clear: the arching fingertips crack in the alcove/roof area. Start up Off Width His Head (don't go up the steep fist crack though), moving left along ledges until you get to the base of that crack in the corner. Then enjoy the sharp, thin crack with smeary feet and a cool roof. Pull out onto the vertical and the climbing eases up a bit to the anchors.

Gift of Life

Splendor of Jobs Gone By

Slabby Cat

Definitive Expletive

Off Width His Head

Step or Stone, Breath or Bone

Barbwire Love

Red Cloud Crack

Ledge 'N' Dairy

Blood, Sweat, and Beers

This route lies directly beneth the barbed wire fence line that runs atop the butte. Starts slabby with thin hands, to a big ledge, then fingers and lieback up the crack to a stemmy finish. Two bolt anchor at top. Watch out for barbed wire when grabbing the top.

Bold line that traverse to the right of Slabby Cat. Cool moves on some tricky sidepulls.

Great route! Delicate, tought provoking, balancy moves in the dihedral on super-friction rock, then a strenuous, tenuous, histoplasmosis undercling lieback section to pull through the roof - and it ain't over until you've worked your way back to the left to the safety of a crack above the cat.

Start with Off Width His Head, then step left at the large ledge (after the fist crack), following 4 bolts up. Tricky beta-intensive sequence gets you past overhanging bulge onto the slabby finish. Cool route!

Fist crack moves into an offwidth crack with a couple ledges.

Fun techy face climbing! Start on a boulder with a couple large pockets, work your way up to a ledge at a band of choss, then get ready for the fight as you crimp your way up the balancy wall above. Note that between the first and second bolts you may want a #1 cam.

Hand and fist crack with small roof in a dihedral.

Many ledges, but still fun moves, some airy positions, and full on mantling.  20 Note: watch out for hollow column/block high up on the right - you probably won't touch it climbing, but avoid kicking it when lowering.

Up a dihedral on non-confidence inspiring rock up to the much better band of rock featuring a rightward trending crack.

Sandstone butte cliff walls. Some bolted routes, some cracks. Climbing is located in National Grasslands. 

  For a guidebook, get "Northern Buttey" - ndclimberscoalition.com/nor…

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Square Butte