Skirt the main rock on the right. Hike up a steep trail and reach the top of the main rock. Traverse a ledge to northeast (left) and reach the upper tier (The Overlook).

The route starts just left of Jersey Devil. Crank up on a good hold to clip the first bolt. Better yet, stick clip it. Fire off a series technical moves to a small corner and the second bolt. Make a hard move past the second bolt and reach a good flake. Place several good pieces and then reach a small stance below an overhanging handcrack. Fire up the crack (strenuous) to a weird move and then climb 20 feet to the anchor. Great route in a wonderful and quiet setting. Gets afternoon sun.

Philadelphia Flyer

Things Done Changed

Obscurity Risk

Golden Child

Falcor

Minnesota Fats

Transylvania

Louisville Slugger

Straight Out of Compton

Denver Nugget

The Probe

Koyaanisqatsi

Super Ali Brenda

Greenfield

Flake Right (submitted as Jersey Devil)

Brenda from Kansas

Malia from B-town

Lobo

Yosemite Sam

This is a very unique line for Boulder Canyon and the Front Range.

Start sitting on a perfect, comfortable jug slot. Make 2-3 moves straight up through surprisingly incut crimps and dishes (crux), then either climb right over the adjacent boulder via a hard undercling move or directly up on crimps. Traverse right on sloper jugs to finish under the start of

Flake Right

(5.8). Either drop off (perfectly allowed as the first ascensionist did the same), or top out the wall by soloing the 5.8 and taking in the view (recommended).

Things Done Changed is a deceivingly hard yet good problem with some of the best crimping and coolest holds you can find on granite.

This is the line with the three fixed pins and two fixed wires just right of

Greenfield

, arcing up and right along the steepest part of the wall. Despite the "funk" factor with the old fixed pro, this is a great little climb with steep moves and nice rock.

Pre-clip the first fixed wire if you can (we did a cupped-hand boost-up stand to get the draw on), then crank strenuous lockoff moves as you pull onto the wall. Head right to a good flake/jug and a pin, bust more tough moves past a fixed stopper, then step right below the second overhang. Two more fixed pins in the seam get you up the curved, perplexing finishing corner.

I was able to back up the next-to-last fixed pin with an RP above it, and the final pin with a bomber Metolius yellow (No. 2) in the horizontal just below it.

The fixed nuts seem OK on this climb, but the last two pins stick out a bit far - though you can back them up! Once the corner ends slab up and right a little to the double-bolt anchors.

The crux is getting past the first two bolts on very overhanging rock.

Bring gear (cams) for the upper crack and rap from the Louisville Slugger anchor.

This is a great little route with power moves at the crux.

Falcor is a fun, power endurance boulder with really great movement. It stays nice and shady all morning, so it can be a great summer option.

Follow directions for "Philadelphia Flyer". Start about 30 to 40 feet downhill from PF. Climb up a thin crack to reach double cracks/seams. Cool stemming and good gear will get you to the anchors. Great route!

The crux is getting past a steep face with two bolts and reaching the "bat flake".

This a great route with a powerful overhanging start that leads to a cool slab finish. Getting past the second bolt is the crux...watch clipping it. Blow the clip and you could land on your belayer's head.

Start left of Minnesota Fats at a thin hand crack. Climb up the left of two cracks. Great jams and stemming moves will get you over a flake/bulge. Continue up the crack to a tree and rap...or top out and walk off to the west.

A really good route that should clean up after more ascents.

The crux is getting into and out of the pod.

This is a cool route with some hard power moves.

Koyaanisqatsi is a very fun problem with crimps, slopers, drop knees, heel hooks, and more. It is hard from start to finish and slightly contrived as you could top out up and right after the first few moves.

This is a good power-endurance challenge on a summer morning. Begin down and left l0 feet from the start of

Brenda from Kansas

on a honking jug slot. Reel right through a hard Gaston crux to the rail where you start

Brenda...

. Shake out, then finish on

Brenda...

past 6 bolts.

We had two crashpads at the start and were tied in, preclipped through bolt 2. Do the crux, clip a third bolt off an undercling off right, mantel up, then finish past a final 3 bolts up the groove (5.11).

Start just right of Lobo. Place an RP, make a hard move and then clip a bolt. Technical moves get you to finger crack. Climb the crack to a large flake on the right. Move right into another corner and climb that to the top. You can also traverse at the top to the anchors for Philadelphia Flyer and lower from there. Great route with bouldering type moves at the start.

Follow the direction for "Philadelphia Flyer". Start 15 feet right of PF. Crank up and clip the first bolt, make  cool moves to reach better holds. Clip the second bolt under the roof and climb out the roof to the third bolt. After the third bolt follow the crack  to the anchor.

Good route in a cool setting.

Malia from B-town is more of a roped up boulder problem than a sport route, but it is fun nonetheless - short and sweet, much like Malia dog. This is another direct start to

Obscurity Risk

. Start on the same rail as for

Brenda from Kansas

, then move up and left via power sidepulling culminating in a long finishing move off a very cool slimper.

*** UPDATE and BETA WARNING ***

Turns out the newly bolted part of this route had been bouldered out in Spring 2020, or thereabouts, by Ilias Hosain. He named the boulder problem Ready for Life and graded it v10:

https://www.instagram.com/p/CBOIVRrJn-z/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

I'm going to leave the route information as is since we did the whole route. As far as grade, I think if you boulder this thing up to the ledge, you should take v10: serious consequences blowing the long move off the heel. However, with a rope, the headiness is not there and 13c seems fair.

Start just right of Minnesota Fats. Climb up steep rock to a hanging flake. Follow a right-facing flake to a ledge and then the anchors.

Climb the overhanging finger/hand crack to some nice jugs.  Power through the roof.  It doesn't look that bad until you are standing under it.  I felt the crux was just getting started.  Once you are in it, the jams and jugs are solid.  Move fast, once you are in it, the clock is ticking.

Belay at a tree or use the anchors for

Louisville Slugger

.

Description

Protection

Routes in The Overlook