Dirty chimney and offwidth. This is the obvious corner system that goes under the large roof on the left side. If you like the great chockstone on Crescent buttress this might be the route for you. Still, not a 'bad' route if you know what you're getting into.

Route of All Evil

Root Of Boll Weevil

McQuarrie Route

East Bell, usually ignored compared to its more popular neighboring Bells Towers lower in the canyon has had no recorded new activity since the early 70's. It has retained a "dirty reputation" to this day. We felt like boll weevils while cleaning this beauty into shape.

Pitch #1: Climb past 3 bolts up the blunt arete passing some intermittent finger cracks to more fun slab to a two-bolt belay. 5.9, 25m.

Pitch #2: Continue up past some blocks to a steep and puzzling struggle of an undercling well protected roof (perhaps a one V4 boulder move?)  to a finger crack that shallows and widens. Pass some fixed pitons and 2 bolts to a two-bolt belay. 5.10+, 30m.

Pitch #3: Climb yet another nice crack until it ends and move right to a great hand crack to a two-bolt belay. 5.8, 30m.

Pitch #4: Climb 3rd class through a clearing in the "jungle"staying on the arete, pass the roof on the left and then move back right to a bolt protecting the slab until reaching intermittent horizontal hand cracks. Pass a fixed piton while trending right up more hand cracks to a two-bolt belay under a roof. 5.8, 35m.

Pitch #5: Climb nice chickenheads past a bolt turning the roof on the right. Continue up and left to a final step up a pleasant crack system to a two-bolt belay on the "pine tree ledge". 5.7+, 30m.

Pitch #6: Another quality and unique pitch, but tricky! Pass a bolt on the slab to another intriguing and unforgiving overhang (with maybe another V5 boulder move:)), underclinging, and mantle to small ledges, sling a monster knob, and chickenheads to a corner. Pass 3 bolts to a sloping faint ramp to a two bolt belay. A register was left here. 5.10+, 35m.

Pitch #7: Typical exfoliating cruxy slab protected by 2 bolts (5.7/8 grit) to a dirty groove leads to 3rd class in a long pitch to the tower top. No fixed gear left at top. We down climbed and rappelled from trees. 5.7 and mostly 3rd class, 70m.

Rappel the route.

If you're seeking the epitome of an old school, sand-bagged, heady, obscure, unnerving and ballsy adventure, look no further than this climb! Rated a modernly dubious 5.9+ in 1964, you'll need more than just technique on this historic monster; you'll need chutzpah as well.

Pitch 1 & 2: Moderate and varied corner climbing gets you within striking distance of the first crux traverse. 5.5-5.7, 250'

Pitch 3: Crux #1, make your way up the corner to the shallow roof and an old pin. From here, commit to the spicy under-cling traverse out right with delicate feet and cast-iron nerve. (Beware of extending pro or reap the drag later) Pull the corner into "the insecure, polished corner with just enough hidden gear to keep you from bailing or taking a huge ride." (

Ferguson to Lone Peak, A Granite guide by Smith, Burr, Phillips

) I belayed at the intermediate ledge with a sturdy little mahogany tree & a .75 crack, although the Granite guide says to "sling the chickenhead out left for the belay." 5.9(+)—5.10a, 110'

Pitch 4: Crux #2, continue up the blank, improbable and steep groove corner system (what

J-Sexy aptly termed "vertical nothing") through creative movement and some even more creative aiding. I felt aiding (A0) through a body length or so of this section was mandatory. It also involved slipping my smallest nut cable over a rusty bolt pin (clearly once something critical for executing this section), clipping a runner to it and high stepping to glory. Precarious but doable! Mince movements until you can finally escape out left past the big chickenhead. Continue up crack, make a short traverse right into the "torpedo tube," and head up, taking care to not pass up any opportunities to place gear because trust me, they run out. Physical and at times heady climbing through groove and bush takes you to the inside corner of the upper roof. Belay off the stout mahogany tree.

(5.9+ A0 or 5.10b/c)

150'

Pitch 5: From the tree traverse straight right (NOT UP) to a crack system, chunky under-cling flake and short crack to a good-sized belay ledge. 5.9+ 50'

Pitch 6: Finagle your way atop the big chickenhead centered below two rusty pins. Clip n' go, moving in a left traverse to gain a gravelly shoulder. Overcome the final thing guarding between you and the end—a damned bush creating a scratchy choke-point in a crack. Find your way past this bush and scramble up the low angle kitty litter ramp to the end of the route. 5.9+, 120'

Pitch 7 (OPTIONAL): Scramble up 5.5 slabs to the summit. Dry heave and then fist bump each other. 120'

RAP 'Root of Boll Weevil'

Description

Protection

Routes in East Bell Tower