A nice two pitch route with varied climbing.   P1: Start up a moderate slab with gear to a bolt at 20. Continue up slabs past another bolt until under the large roof. Clip a bolt over the roof and crank the crux moves using a flake to surmount the roof. Keep cruising up the face with gear to a two bolt anchor on the ledge. 90   5.10 PG   P2: Climb the naturally well protected second pitch up a series of flakes and cracks to a two bolt anchor on top. 70   5.8  

Wet Lichen Dreams

Rampage

Locals Only

Riptide

Chenoo

Porno Poison Ivy

Adventure Punks

Graceful Tiers

Nevermind The Bollocks

She's Out of Reach

Layback Route

Tree Hugger

Steve Garvey Memorial Route

It's a Good Day to Die

The Arete

P.I. Dreams

Happy Ending

Start 15 to the left of Wet Lichen Dreams which has a bolt at 20 to help locate the start.    P1: Riptide climbs the arête of a short buttress of stacked blocks to a small tree ledge. Climb up the slab past a bolt to an overlap with gear. Pull the overlap and continue up the left facing corner on the left side of the roof. Clip a bolt and make the crux moves exiting the corner to a small foot ledge and another bolt. Move up and follow another left facing corner to a two bolt anchor below the overlap. 90   5.9+ PG   P2: Climb out left onto a large ledge and clip a bolt. Make the crux moves and continue up the fun and exposed face on big holds to a two bolt anchor on top. 70   5.8+  

Rampage is a variation finish to Locals Only. It climbs direct out the large roof at the top of the cliff making for excellent exposure and views.  

  Climb Locals Only to the final bolt under the roof. Continue straight up under the roof and gain a horizontal and make a long clip to the fixed chain on the lip of the roof. Fire out the roof on big holds and finish at the Locals Only anchor.

Start the same as Never Mind The Bollocks. The route was climbed as one long pitch on the first ascent.   P1: Climb the opening slab past two bolts to the tree ledge with the large pine. Move right and up a short block to gain the overlap (bolt). Make difficult moves to gain the large flake and a bolt. Climb the flake and continue up past another bolt to a ledge with a two bolt anchor. 90  5.10a    P2: Climb the flakes and face placing gear to a small pine below the roof. Move up some stacked blocks to a stance (bolt). Move right out the corner/arête on a mild run-out to a piece before you pull through the roof and onto a huge ledge (The Chinos Lounge). Move up one more tier to a two bolt anchor on the summit block. 80  5.10a PG 

A good trad line up the Central Wall. Start at the top of the stairs just right of the blocky corner of Orthanc. Climb up the slab with good holds and a few gear options to a small roof. Pull the roof on good holds and continue up and sling the pine tree. Continue up the headwall pulling more overlaps and face climbing on good holds to an anchor on a foot ledge. 150   FA: Lincoln Tetherly and James Dickson climbed the route to the anchors on P1 of Riptide. Lincoln Teherly and Jonathan Garlough pushed the route to the top creating a nice long pitch up the Central Wall.  

P1. Start to the right of Wet Lichen Dreams.  Moderate moves with spicy natural pro lead to a hard slab with a bolt.  Climb this to crux roof and another bolt.  Trend up and left to bolted belay.    Note - pins will be added 

  P2.  Fun moderate moves to top.  Gear and 2 bolts.  Small nuts may come in handy.

This route climbs the left edge of The Big Wall section. Start the same as Chenoo. This is a serious climb on chossy rock and should not be taken lightly. The crux moves are bolt protected, but a fall anywhere on the route could lead to serious injury. Do not attempt this route if people are climbing in the area due to the potential for rock fall.   P1: Climb the slab of Chenoo past an overlap to a larger roof. Place gear and pull the roof to a ledge with a pine tree. 5.8  PG-13   50   P2: Move left from the tree to the chossy arête. Follow the left angling arête with corners and flakes placing gear along the way past two spaced bolts to the pine trees on top. 5.9  R  105

Climb easily past a right leaning flake, a series of ledges, horizontals and mantels, passing 2 bolts to a shallow roof. Clip a third bolt, pull the first shallow roof (crux)to a second shallow roof. Pro at a horizontal (.3/ .4) and mantle around the roof to a slab and a bolt. Step up and left to a bolt shared with Happy Ending, finishing at a two bolt anchor also shared with Happy Ending.

 Crux seems like it will be height dependent. Taller climbers will find the grade soft. Shorter climbers will find the grade stout.

A hard and technical full length pitch that required one point of aid. (The moves will go free!) Start the same as for Locals Only. Look for a slab with two bolts (second hard to see from the ground) that leads to a tree ledge. Go left up another short slab with a bolt to a headwall with a bolt. Make some tricky moves and clip a bolt at the crux bulge. Aid was used here on the ascent. Wander up the face placing gear along the way past another bolt with some brief run-outs.  The climb tops out at the main overlook on top of the cliff at a two bolt anchor. 170

An excellent climb with great variety. 

  Look for a little knoll with a tree just past The Arete (The Arete is one pitch up) and two bolts leading to a 3' roof with a third bolt just above it.  

  Use a flake to gain the first bolt at 15' and a stance.  One more sequence gains the second bolt.  Make a hard 5.10 face move past the second bolt to a slopey undercling (typically wet) at the third bolt.  Step right to a good hold and the crux. 

  A big move (crux) gains a horizontal break (has been done dynamically and statically).  Step up and right to a short, vertical crack.  Follow this to an easy but committing roof.  A few more face moves lead to a pinch with a thread anchor. 

  Stop here or.. 

  She's Way Out of Reach....  5.10 A0 or 5.12+, FFA Jon Baldasarre 5/14 

  Continue up the steep face passing one more bolt (currently A0) and a horizontal.  Step right to a flake and stand up to a two bolt anchor.  The upper face is 5.10 if you pull on the bolt and is worth the effort -- or -- huck balls!!!  Nice work Baldy! Save a .4 for the horizontal. Lower or rap off with a 60, anything shorter and you're hosed. 

  NOTE:  To help reduce drag, clip the third bolt with an extendable draw but leave it short until you're at the stance after the big move.  You can reach down and extend it from here.

The obvious corner system in the middle of the cliff.    P1: Climb the face with flakes and horizontals to a tree ledge below the big roof with a  three pin anchor in a left facing corner. 55   P2: Climb up under the roof and traverse left making moves into the corner. Follow the crack up the corner until the corner ends. Move right onto a ledge with a two bolt anchor. 50   P3: Climb straight up off the anchor and pull the crux overlap with a seam running up the face (5.10). The crux can be avoided by traversing right around the overlap (original finish, 5.8). Follow the bigger holds to the top. Walk off or rap from trees. 55 

Scramble up the gully just right of Graceful Tiers Move carefully around the blocks and up the corner until under the roof. Pull the roof on the right side and continue up to a small ledge with some birch trees. Follow the crux crack to a pine tree at its top. Hug the shit out of the pine to get around it. Continue up easy slab to a fun short left facing corner. Angle up and right and belay from the trees.

Pitch 1, 5.7R 50'. Climb up the face past loose flakes up to the right side of the roof. Continue up the right facing inside corner to its top. Walk 10' left and set up belay on comfortable ledge. Pitch 2, 5.10a, 5.8 pg-13, 80'. Climb up short slabs to a headwall. Step left and continue up and up to the first bolt in a blankish slab. Pull through crux (.10a) and continue over two more short headwalls until reaching a third one with a thin seam continuing up. Climb this and set up a gear belay. (Pitches 2&3 may be combined) Pitch 3, 5.11c, 40'. Put in gear under the roof, reach up and clip the bolt, then go for it. A couple of insecure moves on an overhanging wall lead to a bucket hold and then the top out.

Work up the left side of the amphitheater under the large roof on sharp cracks and underclings.  Tread lightly and pull through the obvious crack on the left end of the roof and straight up the slab and face above.  This climb would be worth two stars if it were longer.

The Arete is a second pitch variation to Layback Route. Climb the first pitch of Layback Route to the pin anchor. Continue up the second and move left under the roof. Take the open book corner with a hand crack to a stance ledge. Move right onto the super exposed arête plugging gear in horizontals. Pull the lip to a big ledge with a bolt anchor.

This is a link up of Wet Lichen Dreams and Porno Poison Ivy.  The second pitch of PPI is slightly longer and a bit more challenging than that of WLD making for a more sustained overall climb. 

  P1.  Climb first pitch of Wet Lichen Dreams trending up and right after the crux roof to the bolted belay on top of P1 of Porno Poison Ivy. 

  P2.  Porno Poison Ivy.

Climb up through an upside down v-notch in a flake.  Continue past rails and horizontals to a bolt below the roof.  Pull the roof (much easier than it looks from the ground, 5.8+, #3 camalot) to a stance and a second bolt.  Climb a  slab (crux) to another overlap, passing a shared bolt with Graceful Tiers to an anchor up and right (also shared with Graceful Tiers). 

The Big Wall starts at the obvious blocky corner of Orthanc and runs right through the big wall sections off the cliff.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 3. The Big Wall