I haven't been able to find any info on this obvious and clearly well-established route.  If anyone knows....

This is an obvious slab route up the westernmost (leftmost) buttress on the Upper Infirmary Slabs.  The route is pretty moderate but sustained at the 5.6ish level.  Bolts are spaced about six feet apart with the first no more than six feet off the deck making this an ideal first slab lead.  Staying to the left edge yields a nice pure-slab climb while staying right allows you to use an obvious, shallow crack system.  The layout and sheer number of bolts suggests that there may even be two lines here.  Seems strange given that the buttress is less than ten feet wide!

Community Service (formerly Little Flatiron Left aka West Buttress)

Submission

Merit Based Pay

Air Apparent

Emergency Entrance

IV League

Admission Crack

Nocturnal Emissions

Haradrim

Cyberchondrial Paranoia

Remission

Mûmakil

Panic in the Gray Room

Cracked Lens

This route ascends the shallow, left-facing corner and crack system located in the inset between the "

Community Service

" and "

Remission

" slabs.

Begin in the easy corner, and head up as the corner and the holds fade away. When the crack fades out, traverse right to the 2 bolt anchor of "

Remission

".

This slab route is on left side of Upper Infirmary Slab (before you get to Western or Left Infirmary) and shares the first three bolts with

Community Service (formerly Little Flatiron Left aka West Buttress)

.  At the horizontal break just above the third bolt, traverse slightly right and clip a fourth bolt.  The crux (5.6+/5.7-) is gaining the thin crack above the 4th bolt.  Continue up the crack, as it opens up to thin-hands, placing gear to the fifth and final bolt.  The top shares the same anchor as

Community Service (formerly Little Flatiron Left aka West Buttress)

.

This is a two-pitch route with two very different pitches. Pitch one climbs a steep hand-crack up to a ledge (with a bit of junky rock at the start to get to the good stuff) and then traverses the ledge to the left for about twenty feet (5.9). The second pitch goes up a thin flake to the top (5.7). You'll notice that the belay position below the second pitch is only about ten feet above the ground and a short section of 5.8 would get you to the same spot.

This is a most awesome route, very reminescent of Yosemite. Start to the right of

Panic in the Gray Room

, and work up the slab and dihedral using stemming, then move into a crack/lieback. Then you can either go straight up the nice, thin, hollow flake, or better yet lieback/undercling and traverse around it. It is a damn shame this route is not several pitches, otherwise it would be an area classic.

This is a nice offwidth which is a bit tougher than

Admission Crack

. It is more flared and tougher to protect.

This is a fun top rope a little left of

Remission

that must have been done before? Pull the roof at its largest part. Duck behind a tree branch to a fun crack system on the arête  When the cracks end, continue up the arête to the

Remission

anchor.

AKA: Battery B.

This is a great pitch with a focus on overhanging fists and wider.

Find the beautiful, overhanging, splitter crack and launch immediately into the crux. It's rattly fists and wider through the crux and into a great rest. Continue up an easy chimney until you're stopped by a flared roof that continues out right. This is the awkward lesser-crux. Fight through this flare, clip the chains and lower to the base.

If you're not up for the lead, this line is easily toproped off fixed anchors above.

A fun climb that is hard at the bottom and easy at the top.  Well protected, the crux comes between the second and third bolts.  Once past the piton, the angle and hence the difficulty of the climb eases up considerably.  Good rock quality and fun moves for a steep slab.

This is a great, moderately-rated, slab/face route.

This is the good-looking hand crack and flake to the left of

Haradrim

. It's a little burly, but the protection and rock are excellent.

This is probably one of the best slab routes in the canyon. This is a fun climb that has crux moves to get going and then face and slab climbing up higher. Climb past the ring piton (crux) to a stance, clip a bolt, move up and past a horizontal to another bolt. Clip two more bolts (trending right at the last) to a two-bolt rappel anchor.

It is the second bolted route to the right of IV League. It starts in the corner next to the wide crack that is Emergency Entrance.

Begin at two blocks and a dead tree; traverse left to a flake and follow the right-leaning crack that splits the wide, rounded formation.

Variation - ascend the plant-filled crack. This is probably not for leading.

Description

Protection

Routes in Upper Infirmary Slabs