Start matched on the shelf just to the left of the big prow. Heel hook on the shelf and slap the prow to mantle into the corner. Much easier with good hip flexibility. V4 is the guidebook grade, but it feels kind of contrived to me. You could start one foot left of the prow and it would be V1, or you could try to slap up the prow and make it V-Hard. The problem just next to it, Diamonds Are Forever, feels much more natural.

Shaken, Not Stirred

Diamonds Are Forever

Moonraker

License to Kill

Sean Connery

Start with a neat left hand crimp, right hand sloper, and slap up to the lip and top out. Pretty cool but too short. Guidebook says V7 but its very soft. There are harder Leavenworth V4s and V5s.

Start with your left hand on the shelf to the left of the prow, and with your right hand on a sidepull under the diagonal lip. Plant your feet, slap the lip, control the weird twisty swing, and mantle on top of the prow. Pretty sweet.

Due to rockfall, this line doesn't exist anymore.

This boulder is challenging in a variety of ways: powerful, technical, sketchy, and logistically weird. Make sure to check the top: chalk up holds and clean if necessary. This line gets little traffic.

Stack pads, hop, or do both to establish on a crimpy edge at the 10 foot level. Make a powerful move up left to a sharp sloper. Make a few more moves on featured slimpers to a sketchy and technical top-out. Oddly enough, if you choose to hop to the start hold, you will need

more

pads than if you stack pads, for you might accidently hop into the pit below the landing.

Use the short slab and a hidden right hand undercling to get established. Figure out how to grab and match on a right-leaning diagonal edge. There are two distinct beta options: old-school right hand gaston on the start, gunning for the little incut edge, or the new-school cross start and drop-knee to a high step. Whatever your style, prepare for a technical, sketchy mantle over a funky landing!

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Moonraker