A short, clean and fun route to the summit - with marvellous vistas over the left edge.

Start at the toe of the slab, left of the North Gully. Pitch 1 has the crux, a jam crack finishing at the belay ledge. Stay as close to the edge as feasible. Pitch 3 is a little steeper, and looser, one more pitch will see you on the summit.

North Slab

Don't Be a Square

North Ridge

Man on the Flying Trapezoid

It's a Trap!...ezoid

P1 - Climb the series of layback corners through great rock. Bolt Anchor. (5.9 30m)

P2 - Climb the steep hand crack corner. Gear anchor. (5.10 20m)

P3 - Climb the low angle corner to the ridge. Gear anchor. (easy 5th 20m)

Descend climber's right down the North Ridge

Climbs the major left-facing corner system on the riight side of Geometry Wall

P1 - Climb the long series of left-facing corners. Bolt Anchor. (5.10- 45m)

P2 - Traverse the ledge, belay at the base of a low angle corner (4th class 20m)

P3 - Climb the corner to the ridge (Easy 5th 25m)

Descend the North Ridge

This is an excellent long and exposed ridge traverse with spectacular views.

Gain the first summit by scrambling up its NE ridge, the odd Class 4 moves here and there. Follow the main horizontal ridge, keep right at the occasional impasse - the views across to Trapezoid's monolithic Northeast Wall are awe-inspiring. The ridge ends at a some towers and a notch. Descend down into the gap and then up a Class 3 face to the summit plateau.

Climbs the continuous crack/double crack system through the dead-vertical, sometimes overhanging Geometry Wall

P1 - Climb the left-facing corner to gain the top of the detached pillar feature. bolt anchor. (5.10- 35m) (Climbing the front or the right side of the pillar may be a better start!)

P2 - Climb the crack, clipping a few bolts and skirting left when the crack peters out for a bit. Bolt anchor. (5.10+ 35m)

P3 - Climb the crack still. Bolt anchor. (5.11- 35m)

P4 - Keep climbing the crack. Clip a few bolts through the wild stemming crux, then do the wicked mantle onto the only ledge on the whole wall. Gear anchor. (5.12- 35m)

P5 - You're almost done climbing the crack. Pull the final overhang to the summit. This one is easier. Gear anchor. (5.9 25m)

Descend the obvious north ridge, climber's right.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Trapezoid Peak